Diy hub motor question

reterminating can be hard depending on the motor and if it’s got the multi-strand wire coming out of the motor or just soldered on phase wires because trying to find the 6 different wires (starts and ends) in the motor can be really hard, and separating them and regrouping them can be pretty much impossible if its glued down well, which it likely is. But if the multistrand comes out you can go through wire by wire finding starts and ends and then bundle all the ends together and be done.

but if you were to get a very high amp controller, like a 200 amp one or maybe even more, then you could run the motors at like 4s and have no complications trying to reterminate and get all the torque you’d want as well as efficiency but then you cant use the vesc and foc! but you will be running.

Yes but it is still 260kv which is not even close to enough power. Even the ngv? board uses something like 190kV and they have 4 of them and it’s still not very powerful

kv is the inverse of kt and kt tells the torque per amp, so with the high kv it will have low kt so need more amps to get the same torque. The high kv can get the same torque as a low kv and just needs more amps so you change the battery cocktail to be more amps and less volts. same power out but a different mx. this isn’t any less efficient and it’s all amps in the motor

Oh ok this is new to me, but I doubt his motor could handle more than maybe 80a cont

80a continuous…is a lot. …is huge. I don’t think any motor we use could. even an 80mm motor. peak for sure he could do 80 motor amps. no problem. continuous is vague anyway and doesn’t have a time frame or ambient temp or take into account the motor magnets’ max temp before demag or the wire enamel’s temp either

Yes that was absolute maximum. Most likely 50a and even that would heat up the motor like crazy

the motor wont run any hotter on 4s vs 12s and there’s no free ride with running voltage. it’s effectively converted to amps in the motor. the vesc recognizes this and you have both a battery and motor amp limit.

motors state 70A MAX.

this is a bunch of good info that i’m digesting. i think that reterminating the motors and the rest of it is over my head. i’m a mechanical engineer so i think the best path for me is to remake the wheels with the correct motors. i just need to machine some new parts and select some motors.

can anyone tell me why most hub motors are at 500 watts and most people are running 2000 watts and up for belt drives?

the stated amp max numbers are bunk. there’s no standard for comparison and manufacturers just make up a number. is that 70 max or peak …and they’re hugely different. I’m sure you could do way more than 70 amps for a short period of time and they will be doing that even if you have a watt meter coming from the battery showing much lower amperage. the esc switches it to amps and it will be much higher in the motor at low speeds. I have my esc to put out I think 40 true amps from the battery and 120 motor amps. I will have both happen

I do way more amps than any belt drive I’ve come across in san Francisco. When I have new bigger motors complete I’ll take on all comers in a race up any hill. if there’s any reason hub motors are limited in their potential power it would be their size and inability to dissipate built up heat but otherwise it’s all the same.

and when they state a 2000 watt motor or whatever…it doesn’t mean they even do that and the esc and also the battery can be the bottleneck and most likely is. there’s empty statements all over

If wattage and amp statements are all over the place then how do you recommend someone spec a motor? i still want to build my own hub motors because that’s where my mechanical expertise is (and ability to fabricate).

i found this. do you think would make a good hub motor?

thats a very low kv for a motor that’s so small. quite a find. Wish it said how many turns of wire

size or weight is a good indication of what power a motor will really do. Winding resistance at a given kv would maybe be even better but many manufacturers seem to make that up also

I think that would make a good hub motor for a vesc but what you made already with the high kv would be fine with a very high amp controller running on lower voltage like I said. It would be practically just as good.

Scorpion motors do a similar more expensive kit but with better components and more options of sizes. I think you have to wind those too which maybe you’d want to do. it’s not as complicated as it looks.

As an obvious example of unreal amp or power numbers hobbyking rate their house brand motors with really high wattage and amp numbers compared to everything else similarly sized.

I found these I think they will work.

Here are my calcs and they should have enough torque

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