@Titoxd10001Thankyou, thats what I thought. I have an industrial epoxy that I plan on using. Its a stronger version of JB Weld, I once fixed a blown out plug on a Ford motor with it. Held for over 100,000 miles. I will get you the name tomorrow.
Okay thanks @Chris1 let me know about that epoxy
I didn’t want to say anything before I tried but I’m going to add a longer axle on my Ronin’s the old ones hammer right out I don’t see why a longer axles and some spacers wouldn’t allow dual 15mm that’s what I had planned
enertion mount doesnt work, or maybe it does, but only with very slim motors like a dual 50mm. you need a motormount that offers a long truck to motor axle distance. otherwise the rotor collides with the supportpin-baseplate part of the truck.
see here how close it is and i just ordered a 300mm belt:
…I think adding a longer axle and adding spacers to widen space between wheels will greatly reduce axle strength and probably bend axle ?
today I managed to bring the motor a little bit closer to the truck, so that I can actually use a 280mm belt and the 2 outer mount attachment screws instead of the 2 neighboring ones! the belt size will probably give you an idea if your mount works for ronins or if it doesnt (running 15/36T). I dont think you can really go any closer unless you mount the motor towards the rear or you bring it even further towards the road!
2 outer screws on the motor mount plate instead of directly neighboring ones like before. I got about 2-3mm between motor and support pin base plate:
here you can see that I could probably go closer if I just brought the motor closer to the road. right now, with full lean angle without flexing board, the motor has about 5mm before touching the board …
… which you can see in this picture. also, the motor only has only about 1mm from the support pin at full lean.
Here is the epoxy I will be using. Strongest stuff that I know of…
@whitepony would there be any reason you couldn’t mount the motor on the outside?
dont think so, other side of cronins is pretty much a std rkp truck!
Could you file down that corner of the truck a little bit, and polish the flat bare metal spot that it leaves? If it doesn’t compromise the integrity of the truck of course. I’m curious to try those Ronins after seeing your close ups of the design.
thats what I wouldve tried if I didnt manage to fit the motor. cant compromise the lower end of the support pin holder cup, because the support pin tip inside that cup is a rubber bumper for damping!
I didn’t see the part about enertion motor mount. It won’t work with these trucks because you need a lot of distance from the pulleys like white pony said. I have a 285 belt for 15/36 that I plan to use to mount the motors toward the rear. And the mounts should be round to allow for adjustment Imo
@Chris1 thanks for the heads up
got about 150km on the cronins now … its very close to a miracle how they can be so incredibly sensitive, precise and smooth at low lean and so incredibly turny at high lean. at the same time they have really great damping and the amount of possible lean is crazy! these trucks transformed my low speed vanguard completely - I can now easily surf sidewalks and enter 90° sidewalk turns while I still highspeed carve smoother than ever!
but it actually took a few kilometers for me to get adjusted to the ronins, cause initially my vanguard rear kept breaking loose on nearly every turn - I felt like a hero AND also scared at the same time, because I really wasnt convinced that I could just catch my rear that smoothly every time forever.
on the calibers, I usually gave the last bit of each carving arc one extra push, so that I could hear the rubber rub hard on the pavement and nearly break loose. that worked on the calibers, because their lean was at the end, there wasnt any more “turn” coming from the truck when I pushed, just the added outwards pressure from pushing into the flexy board … which then added a little more turn.
on the cronins, that little extra push produces more pressure AND even more lean + turn on the trucks, so that the rear wheels REALLY come loose. after my first shock I enjoyed playing with that behavior though and it was amazing how easy one got into a quick controlled slide with 42" and the largest wheelbase in the universe. wish the wheels wouldnt make this loud annoying fart sounds when they slide though
a very pleasant suprise was the grip while carving: on my calibers, whenever I switched between left and right carving arcs and decompressed the board in that moment, the motor wheel broke loose and the motor quickly spun up (which annoyed me because of the sound). on the cronins, somehow that doesnt happen. it could be the weaker smaller motor, but I felt like I used about the same torque in these moments - like slightly uphill to keep my speed. once I noticed that I tried to provoke the behavior, but I definitely had more grip on the motor wheel when it was unloaded.
aside from cronins: the truck adapter performed flawless, not sure that the heat transfer is working superwell, but that didnt feel like an issue anyway. big suprise here with the difference of enertion mount vs. full aluminum APS mount: the motor runs NOTICEABLY cooler, because the whole mount heats up … and thats comparing a 168KV 6374 to a 190KV 6355, i.e. smaller higher kv motor motor -> more current for the same torque and its pretty much fully closed too = many reasons why it should run hotter to begin with!
anyway, Im really happy - and that new 160Watt charger is REALLY fast, going back out very soon again
@whitepony Wow I’m just now trying my ronins on my eboard and they are amazing paired with 90mm abecs everything is smooth as can be. Definitely feel more comfortable taking corners at speed compared to calibers. I catch myself going further and further from my home because my ankles aren’t sore from the ride. The only downside is that it makes higher speed feel slow lol. I’m just at about 45 km/h top speed on 9s with lipo and plan to go 11s with 18650s. I’m using a different method for mounting my motor mount that isn’t ideal, still waiting on the pipe to epoxy on the Ronins.
nice! how did you mount it? the torqueboard 28mm wouldnt have been enough for my 15mm belt - my mount is flush now with the end of the 30mm pipe with 1mm wall thickness that I stuck in as far as possible!so probably you might need to file the truck a little bit (unless you had aps moints?).
Dude! I hacked one of my Ronins to pieces I removed material to get to about 17mm then got a 5mm thick spacer cut it in half and used that as my adapter. It’s quite embarrassing because it’s not angled perfectly (off about 3 degrees maybe). I’m just calling that hanger a “for science” haha. I have torque mounts and as you can read I’m not afraid to hack away. Actually I made a longer axle and I’m able to fit two enertion 12mm pulleys as I’m going for dual 6355 with 15mm belts. Essentially I made a 197mm ronin hanger
How did you extend the Ronin axle ?
I actually rode 120km this weekend with the ronins … this combo of supersmooth vanguard + 90mm abec 75A + 1/8" rubber shock pads + ronins … I just couldnt stop and grinned like an imbecile! on monday I had sore ankles, but I couldve gone on forever!
I made longer axles out of stainless steel rod, the old ones hammer right out but one side has knurls so you have to hit it from the correct side
I feel you man ronin are just too good. I just received the 28mm pipe in the mail and it goes perfectly as far as I need to go down the truck. As I’m not to worried about thermal conductivity do you think adding fiberglass will make it a stronger connection?
You are going to use 2, 15 mm belts with 12 mm pulleys ???
Yes, the 15mm belts only have 1mm of over hang so the pulleys are actually around 14mm wide. Where I really need the width is on the motor pulley because there is less teeth in mesh. I only have one motor connected but there is plenty of room because I have 195mm trucks essentially.