DIY Trigger Style Remote with Telemetry - Complete Guide

ESK8 Electronics
21

Your solution is brilliant, thats what I’ve been waiting for all my life, I really love you.

Now, for a Newby on arduino and pcb building, would you please point me to the right direction on how to build the PCB? Should I just send the PCB design a company? How should I but the board and make all the traces?

Sorry if this is a stupid question

2 Likes
22

Just click on the link I shared and order the PCB…

I am checking with EasyEDA why the PCB prices went up in the last 2 days though.

23

I did try that and there is no button to order it, I even registered

24

Ah it’s a little complicated.

You gotta go into the editor, then hit export gerber button at the top to order.

But it seems like there’s something wrong with the system (they just did a major upgrade yesterday it seems).

I’m also getting some new DRC errors which never showed up previously, need to go sort those out.

25

Yeah, the email address verification link isn’t working either

image
image776×363 22.3 KB

26

I like your style, dude ! :wink:

1 Like
27

Thank you very much for sharing PCB design!

I will try to make all-in-one PCB for transmitter, not a Stacked-design.

  • Use nRF24l01 modules with 2x4 pin-Header.
28

Hmmmm

While designing the PCB I discovered that ‘5V Boost’ converter’s PCB Layout doesn’t match the Product you linked in google datasheet.

Your PCB and module(presumably, since it didn’t let out magic smoke) has both Input Terminal on ‘Long-Side’ of the rectangle. But the product in link(alibaba) has both Input Terminal on ‘Short-Side’ of the rectangle.

If anyone buys your pcb + linked boost board, they can short the Battery, because your PCB gives GND and VBAT to ‘long-side’, but linked-product has IN- and OUT- on ‘long-side’, ouch!

Even worse since your TP4056 doesn’t have dedicated Output-Port. So short-circuit detection isn’t possible. That can be extremely Dangerous.

So can you provide link to the same boost-converter you used? Thanks.

29

You are right, in this case it’s a matter of the photo on the link not being the same as the product sent to me. You see one thing online, it comes as something else in the mail.

Let me try to find a better link with the correct photo.

1 Like
30

This one (https://ko.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-Boost-Power-Supply-Module-Converter-Booster-Step-Up-Circuit-Board-3V-to-5V-1A/32788045286.html?spm=a2g12.10010108.1000014.9.69182faeKDqNio&traffic_analysisId=recommend_3035_null_null_null&scm=1007.13338.98466.000000000000000&pvid=4425630d-8821-4e7f-a11a-b51420c58086&tpp=1) seems like the boost module you used. As you said, can’t be sure if product and Photo will match, but at least photo is much more similar, including pinout.

Btw, did you measure the distances between pad & added new pcb-lib for Boost module Footprint?

1 Like
31

image
image317×512 19.4 KB

I have a feeling that this Won’t fit inside original solidgeek’s remote. Due to it’s width, and also length is pretty tight too(I’ve forked your Schematic & PCB, and modified quite a bit).

Solidgeek’s freeSpace : 26(L) x 63(H) / ArduinoNano: 18 x 44 / TP4056 : 17 x 22/ Boost : 15 x 19

32

You are SO awesome!! I’ve been trying to work out how to build a 100% waterproof (underwater - not for a skateboard:-) throttle and had no idea how to use hall sensors for that… before now!!!

33

@ervinelin got any complete kits together? Im pretty keen to get started on a side ardino project, but dont have the time to wait 49 days for Aliexpress to ship out

34

Incomplete kits… Simply because of what you said… some items take more than a month to reach me…

Sorry a bit caught up with the flu and work, need some time to get things sorted.

35

If I may ask, what bits are you missing? Or am I better off waiting for a full kit if you are going to sell them?

36

Magnets and springs take an eternity to reach me. More than a month still nothing.

Some other parts here and there I need to check, also my PCB i have in stock is the older design. EasyEDA doubled their prices so I am very hesitant to order more of which I don’t need any.

37

Okay, I’ve run into some problems. I won’t sell any kits until I find good solid solutions for them.

  1. I had instances of my board losing power going very slowly uphill, at first I thought maybe it was a amp draw issue but I noticed last night that for some weird reason, the remote disconnects when I go very slowly uphill (going fast is not an issue). So as it stalls along the way up, the remote disconnects and I lose all control until a few seconds later when it comes back.

Honestly I have absolutely no idea what is going on with this. Anyone?

  1. After that episode, thinking that I need more shielding, I opened up the transmitter only to have my stupidity fry the lipo charger. So I desoldered and replaced the entire lower PCB and its components and now my transmitter won’t fire up without a hard reset or flipping the switch quickly between on and off and back on.

Again, totally confused why this is happening. USB power works fine. Current possible solution is to add a cap between the reset and GND pins.

Anyone Arduino masters can clue me in on what’s happening?

38

I have exactly the same thing on my receiver side, it’s a weird problem. Luckily I’m powering my remote from usb socket so no problem there. Did you try the possible capacitor solution yet?

39

The hill climb drop out is just due to voltage sag issues on the rx side under load. In the rc world, we call them brownouts. the fix is a capacitor to help stabilize voltage on the 5v rx input. image

6 Likes
40

For the second issue, i think its a step up voltage reg issue. i.e you flip the switch and the step up reg ramps to the full 5v and the Arduino is under voltage on boot. but a quick reset the reg is already up to 5v (caps charged) so the audio boots correct. if you have a O-scope you can check this.