Guys what’s your opinion on a PLA enclosure? Most of the people use PETG or ABS. I tried ABS on my CR-10s which was difficult then I switched to PETG which kind of worked but it needs more tweeking on my side. PLA is much more easy so the question is do you think that is safe to use? What about a dual vesc in a aluminium housing, you think the heat will deform the PLA?
In my experience, PETG still shatters. I’ve printed some NESE battery modules out of it and over time they have chipped. ABS is hard to print without an enclosure and requires a heated bed at high temps. I wouldn’t print an enclosure out of normal PLA - it doesn’t take much to make the entire thing shatter into pieces.
If you want to print with PLA, I HIGHLY recommend Sunlu PLA+. It has other materials mixed into it to combat the weaknesses of normal PLA, hence why it doesn’t shatter upon impact and is nearly as heat resistant as ABS and doesn’t require a heated bed above 50celcius neither a 3D printer enclosure to print. https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUNLU-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy-Printing/dp/B073PB9XWY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537899458&sr=8-2&keywords=sunlu+pla+1.75mm
What is PLA Plus? PLA Plus is an enhanced version of our PLA that’s less brittle and more durable. PLA Plus is for applications where good vibration absorption and a lower fracture rate is needed.
PLA Plus 3D Filament Feature？ PLA Plus SUNLU has higher impact strength than ABS and PLA with a heat resistance rivaling that of ABS! Available in 1.75mm diameter, SUNLU PLA+ will help your 3D printed projects look amazing and perform amazing. Anneal your design after 3D printing for even better heat resistance.
And here is how to make it even more durable: https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength
Interesting as a friend and I just bought a few of these for science.
Thanks for sharing. I clicked on your amazon link. What is the difference between black and carbon fiber black? Which would you recommend to print a enclure?
I’ve had enclosures crack printed… I think a better option is to print with low infill, and gallies, then vacuum bag to resin infuse the part, or use the part as a buck for a fiberglass part…
It has carbon fiber mixed into it.
I can print in Nylon which for eskate I think is the way to go. I just printed Nylon pulleys and they are fine so an enclosure would be all good imo.
If you want a price to print and ship your model let me know.
You can see the printer in action on this vid
pla is strong and has very good abrasion resistance, but its useless due to low glass temperature. Id use it for everything if it could tolerate heat. Start with petg, 100% infill so you can modify it after, drill holes in it it wont shatter etc etc. Use dark colour for uv resistance. I use petg for my controller, pulleys, enclosures, even engine mounts. All 100% infill. Petg is tricky to print as it will sag on overhangs and takes more force to extrude, use variable print settings, lower layer height temp and speed for overhangs. Consider a cheap volcano head with 0.6mm nozzle to print petg much faster.
I got mine (PETG) printed in segments, then siliconed via a lap joint. After which I coated the entire interior with another layer of silicone.
The idea is that the silicone will help with waterproofing and hold the enclosure together should it crack (happens along the FDM layers).
That sure is ugly but I see beauty in all those angles. Would make a great mold for my vacuum table or to carbon fiber/ fiberglass it. Really nice design