Don’t buy used battery’s from people you don’t know build them correctly

6amp for 10*0.15 really? Thought it was ~15

For burst 15amp is okay. And thats why 10mmx0.15 is perfect for the parallel connections, But 60amp… Naah My next battery is going to be with copper sheet for the serie connections, and Nickel only for parallel

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Concerning the series connections:

I like to support the welded Nickel with soldered copper braid for rigid batteries and 12awg silicone cable for flex. No direct soldering to the cells and the conductivity is SOLID.

@willumpie82 I agree with what you say but if you solder onto the negative pole, you don’t need to put fishpaper underneath. The nickel flag and the battery body have the same polarity. That’s the whole point of always welding it onto a negative terminal.

Don’t do that! Just because it works for now doesn’t mean it doesn’t get crazy hot when you speed uphill. You can’t know the temperature under load.

That being said, I think many people heavily overestimate what they actually continuously draw from a battery. If anyone thinks they are getting 60A continuous without a heavy guy gunning uphill on huge motors, please show me the logs. Bursts aren’t a big deal. Everything that lasts less than a few sec doesn’t really count for conductivity calculations. Just my $0.02 as ppl say

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Can somebdy embroider the red mbga hats?

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Sure. If you run 60 amps 100% of your ride. I’m berly ever hitting the 60A so maybe…1% of my total ride is at any critical limit?.. When i desigin ICs, which i do for a living. I usually go by 1u/mA as upper treshold. (yes micrometer…)

Do you have some logs showing some of your more speedy acceleration or uphill riding?

That braid looks like a decent solution to support the nickel strips w.r.t. power

I don’t put fish paper on the negative terminals underneath the spot weld, only at places where i think vibration might damage the battery heat shrink (hence the tabs, also isolates a bit from the heat when soldering the balance leads, but mostly just a force of habit :wink:

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I’m not sure If i missinterpretend something here. But do you mean the series bridge between the parallell Groups? Or only whats welded on the actual + and - terminals. working and discussing simultaniously here so might have skimmread bit too much.

this 10char

Lol, sorry then. using 10 awg inbetween each group.

Lul I buy one now pls

Jesus… that battery looks like it was built by Alextech.

We can do that, but people are already required to post pictures of whatever they’re selling. I’m curious as to why you didn’t ask for pictures of the build process?

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I just bought a battery from CHI boards batteries. It was expensive so I hope it’s done well. Any feedback on his battery builds?

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from the reviews ive read youre in good hands

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How someone can make this? And worse, sell it

Is these kind of behavior that make the board go boom and the whole community get a negative image, like happened to hoverboards

On the good side, this is a perfect example of how you should not build a battery

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chi has good packs

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The batteries from Chi boards are top notch, and the seller is a leader on this forum.

@barajabali

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Totally agree on @barajabali I have have two of them and no issues. Great support too

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I’ve also had great experience with @hyperIon1 He even sent me pics of the build which I didn’t really appreciate before, but it’s a nice comfort having visual proof the pack is assembled correctly. I’m sure @barajabali would send pics as well if I had asked.

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Really good hands of what I’ve seen

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