[DONE] ~ Bad Hand | Santa Cruz Screaming Hand | 180mm Rev Kingpin Trucks | DIY 5055 280KV | Chinese Mount | TorqueBoards 120A 6S ESC

This is my first build and I wanna say thanks for the all of info people have posted. This is very helpful. This all started with a an Altered Fantom 1.0 I bought for my son. He wasnt crazy about it, so I started playing around with it. I haven’t been on a skateboard in close to 20 years, so I had fun…but not ENOUGH fun, so I started looking for mods.

The only thing I’ve done is bypass the breaker (14amp WTF!) so it wouldn’t quit every 2 mins. Other than that, it would essentially require a new motor, esc, gears, etc. Didn’t seem like a really good path to go down. Now I’m doing a custom build. I have made some of the purchases allready, but some are still to come. The deck is usable, with the trucks, wheels,motor mount and gears installed but no electronics as of yet. Here it is…

DECK, WHEELS & TRUCKS Santa Cruz Stained Hand Skateboard Deck - Blue/Natural - 32.0in x 8.375in (in hand) - Link Pro Clear Grip Tape Sheet 9x33 (in hand) - Link 180mm Reverse Kingpin Trucks & FlyWheels 83mm White Wheels (in hand) - Link Pig 1/2" 0.5" Skateboard Longboard Riser Pad x2 Black (in hand) - Link

ELECTRICAL Electric Skateboard Motor 5055 280KV - Link TorqueBoards 120A 6S ESC - Link TorqueBoards 2.4ghz Nano Remote Controller (in hand) - Link x2 (series) ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 3S1P 30C (ordered) - Link

MECHANICAL DIY Electic Skateboard Kit - Pulleys, Belts and Motor Mount - 5065/5055 motor, 16 & 48 tooth (in hand) - Link

CHARGER Imax B6 clone Lipo Battery Balance Charger w/ Power Adapter - Link XT60 plug Parallel Li-Po Balance Charging Adaptor Board 2S to 6S for Imax B6 B6AC V2 - Link

EXTRAS Shoreline Marine Propel Kayak Carry Handle with Hardware, Black - Link Outdoor Products Watertight Tablet Case, Clear - Link 12V Battery Charge Light LED Voltmeter Condition Charging Red Indicator Unit - Link

The idea was to build a decent warehouse crawler (10-15mph, 1 to 1.5 hour runtime) for not a lot of money. I skimped on the trucks, mount & pulleys assuming I could replace them later with either custom or DIY gear. I’m gonna go ahead an say the ones I got off of eBay are junk. I’m going to use them for now, but I plan on replacing them very quickly :).

So, are there any obvious issues with the parts that I missed?
What is the charge time going to be on the 5000mAh batteries with the parallel board? I’ve see some conflicting info (at least as far as my understanding goes) about power switches. There are anti-spark switches in use, some people are using 20amp toggles, etc. Is it possible, recommended even, to use a 20-40 amp toggle switch? If so, to what part are the poles connected? After the batteries & before the ESC?

Thanks for the assistance, and good luck with your own builds.

Here are some pictures of the build in progress…

Im not crazy about the clear grip, I may replace it with black grip, cut them into strips and apply diagonally or something.

This is the chinese motor mount and gears, like I said…not great. I had to a bit of modifying tot he trucks to make the motor mount fit. I also drilled out the deck and truck mounting holes so I could use 3/8 in fasteners, instead of the 1/4 in that came with the trucks. After that I sprayed the mount and trucks with multiple coats of flat black enamel.

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You might have a problem with the sk3 5055(at least I had) because it has not so much power
I mean you can ride up some decent hills but can’t really start from still or ride up too steep hills

I had actually though the same thing, but I ‘felt’ like the 190kv would give too little top end. Is that correct? Is there another motor, that is available, that would be a better choice?

I don’t know where you are from but I found some quite cheap motors on eBay they are called 6364 neodym on eBay for 50-70bucks and I’m testing out mine probably next week
But you can also check out ollinboard’s motors



And I just found this one dunno if it is good but It looks like a fake turnigy http://m.ebay.com/itm/GForce-G160-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor-for-RC-Airplanes-10S-LiPO-6364-230KV-/142058908306?nav=SEARCH

This I like, Ill look into it a bit more in depth when I leave work. thanks

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Or just check out the commonly used parts thread

you’ll likely have some “cogging” or stuttering when starting froma full stop regardless. Not a huge deal if you give a kick or two it should go away. If it doesn’t then you can adjust some of the ESC settings to try to fix, or move to another motor/esc combo.

50mm motors work pretty well - i wouldn’t focus on top speed so much and 280kv is a bit high IMO. But should work. Since you already have it - i’d use it until you know more about what you want.

In your electrical section - i don’t see the programming card noted for the 120a 6s ESC? You’ll need that. You absolutely will need to adjust the brakes and possibly other settings w/ it to get this working for you.

Your deck has a short wheelbase - i’d consider mounting the trucks to the angled sections at each end like @RunPlayBack did - it will be a bit more “turny” w/ the additional angle, but also a lot more stable (longer wheelbase) and give you more room inbetween the trucks for electronics. (likely around 14" WB now).

here’s his build to look at and see if it inspires you:

I see some links to motors - i’d double check that any motor you get is 8mm shaft vs 10mm shaft (the Neo @Nooby ebay linked is 10mm it looks like). Not a huge deal, except all the gears we typically use are 8mm. Yes you can get some 10mm from APS and elsewhere - but a more limited selection or need to modify to fit. I stick to 8mm as a result.

Can’t go wrong with Ollin’s - just verify the motor mount holes will fit your mount (38mm iirc).

Also recommend the common parts thread, and @onloop’s build videos for some common recommendations (like gear calculators etc.) Just take the unavoidable enertion branding (it’s what he’s using - it works, and obviously what he has) in stride - realizing that almost any other similar motor/mount/battery will work if specs line up.


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I have that same motor and FVT ESC, and because of the sensored operation, it starts up perfectly smooth. I don’t have any hills here in south florida, but did go up a pretty steep driveway once, and it got up fine. I have 13/36T gearing.

Ok maybe just mine was shitty (turnigy quality faults probably)

I figured I’d be kicking off to start anyways with a single motor build, not really one of my criteria anyways. I just want a decent top speed and as long a battery run as I can get.

I like the way the trucks are mounted at an angle, looks pretty mean.

This deck has a pretty good concave shape and it isn’t very flexy so I’ve not had any issues using it normally. My logic was get a shorter deck for better turn-ability at low speeds, but I will confess I’m a little worried about wobble at higher speeds. After I get the board powered and test it, I’m pretty sure Ill go back and do this or try another deck.

Thanks for the info, very cool.

Looking at your gears wheels and motor, the speed calc i have for you shows:

83mm - 280kv - 6s - 16/48 = 19mph

that’s going to be pretty screaming on a 14-16" WB short board. You obviously can go slower, but i’d also worry about speed wobbles (depending on your skill and bushings dialed-in, etc.).

Did you get the programming card for this ESC?

I just ordered the motor, esc, programming card, charger, XT60 adapters, etc. It should all be in late next week and the build continues :).

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So I have most of my parts in, just waiting on the charger, power supply, connectors, etc. I have a couple of questions though. I bought the TorqueBoards 120A 6S ESC and the Electric Skateboard Motor 5055 280KV.

The ESC has 5.5mm connectors (I think) and the motor has 4mm connectors. Should I just cut and splice/solder or is there a converter cable?

The motor has a sensor wire, I don’t see anywhere to connect that to the ESC, did I order the wrong parts or is this common?

This is the wiring diagram I came up with, not sure how accurate it is so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks again.

The description of the ESC says “Sensorless or Sensored Brushless Motor” but i cannot see the input for the sensors… i think @torqueboards has to chime in here :wink:

Best approach is to use either 4mm connectors on the ESC and motor or 5,5mm. Dont mix it. I would recommend using 4mm because it is less likely to fall apart due vibrations. So just remove the 5,5mm connectors and solder new 4mm connectors.

I have the FVT version of the ESC, and the sensor connector is on the side where the motor wires come out of the ESC near the bottom.

yeah, hmmm. it was there the whole time. guess I’m going as Helen Keller for Halloween :slight_smile: Thanks