yeah, there is an increase…I have 6A in detect parameters…
Does this apply ?
yes, tehre is 0,04 and not 0,004 Did this caused the problem and DRV failure? I guess I will have to have DRV changed…
probably … next time try to use the latest firmware for bldc and vesc. Hope you’ll get back on the road soon ! This is all part of DIY-Life
Yeah…i know…but its kinda weird that it worked with MayTech VESC once and then it destroyed the DRV…
.04 is the correct value you should be fine for that
So what could have caused the dead DRV? Motor is OK, also connector and cables…
Just curious, you say you resoldered the sensor leads, but you’re using sensorless right?
when the MayTech VFESC failed, it was in sensored, the Vanda VESC was unsensored without sensore wires connected
It failed during motor detection
Your Maytech (OP) screenshots say sensorless. Anyway, you’re now saying your Vanda VESC DRV blew up during detection and now fails detection? Could you post pics on how you have everything hooked up, and what kind of battery you have?
ok I might have had it in sensorless when it failed, i dont remember correctly… I will post the pics later (in 2 hours), I have to leave now…
About the pics…I am sure everything is hooke up correctly, I took everything apart yesterday and removed all insulating tape from the connectors, when I was looking for the mistake…I dont think the photos of the board, cables and connectors would help. but I can send them
Before I my first blown DRV I had hidden cables inside the deck and I had sunk them with polyester resin to hol on place…from what I know Polyester resin is not conductive and also the cables were isolated…I had been using the cables with same isolation before and they were OK, so the reason of the failure might be only the resin, but since they are well isolated there shouldnt be a problem?
COuld it be caused by too long phase motor wires? They are about 20cms long, but as I said I used them without any issue before…
Also 3 of my bullet connectors under the truck are connected to the wires in angle/from the side so they can fit under the truck…Could this cause the problem?
I have 10s LiPo 5000mAh 20C
Ok…im angry…why the fuck me? 3rd time, all new wires and connectors, everything seems ok, everything well isolated (2 layers of isolation)…i connected VESC to batteries and it gets hot and starts smelling like somthing is being burned…IDK what is wrong, the heat comes fsomewhere from the drv or maybe the coil next to it i am not sure…just constantly flashing red light…i didnt even hit connect in BLDC tool…
I think I giv up on this shit…I have spend too muc hmoney on these VESCs, IDK what i am doing wrong because i always follow guides and there is always something wrong…
So I was wondering I could buy a normal HV ESC, what ESC do you recommend? This one from APS? Is it reliable? Or the MayTech ESC? They have too hard brakes am I right? Where can I buy the FVT ESC?
I want simple plug and play solution, no **** VESC, because I dont have luck with this…
just don’t buy 4.12, buy from ollin’s enertion etc, modified version. you will have less headache. if you want, you can try fvt sleeping lion, but you have to update firmware, do some experiment with throttle.
Not a problem for me, do you have any link where I can buy it? I have send a inquiry via alibaba, but I would prefer buy it now option…
I mean FVTs sleeping lion…
Oh, I never used fvt, but I believe alien power makes copy version. I saw one live link in the forum to alibaba as well.
Do you think this one could work if it had car ESC firmware?
im not sure if the diff model can change firmware