Hey I’m really interested in the concept and would love to try one sometime.
I looked on your YouTube channel and kind of saw how it worked, but I have a few questions.
Are the arm linkages connected? So they always move together.
If not I’m guessing it’s just a damper, which I think would be cool.
Thanks.
You can see on the picture below how the arms are connected on a Flexboardz :
There is a elastomer block, in the middle, to provide a bit of dampening.
It was more explanation in a forum post : “Swing arms” Steering…
The deck needed some reinforcement as it weighted only 1kg for 80cmx30cm.
To save the shiny glass, I added carbon layers on the internal side + some reinforcements.
It’s now 1,5 kg + 0,5 kg of heatsink (the aluminium electrical box).
Temporary “heatsink” (definitive one will be a single piece).
Time now to reassemble the whole stuff into a board…
Those bindings look awesome!
It took me 3 months to grow a santa beard and 1/2 hr to make hooks
After a long wait, delivery truck finally showed up.
After so many hours spent on forums, reading about theory, that’s a pleasure to look, touch, weight, feel…
For the time being, it’s still static and not really electric as the battery is traveling somewhere.
Unboxing :
To keep thing simple, I’ve ordered from a single supplier. My objective about electricity/electronic is “plug and play”
On the E-Flex, there is a minimum motor axle length, to go through the arm (>40mm), so I had not much choice, 6880 or 5570 (no 63xx)
I have a bit of work to install those tiny things comfortably in the Flex belly, while waiting for the battery to knock at my door.
Take a simple and good looking structure, add some electric/tronic stuff and it’s immediately a mess.
Here is the first attempt to install the electric components: the aluminum bottom is on the deck to show the wires and motors approximate positions.
As my new battery is still traveling, I’ve installed 2 old Flexscoot batteries to give a scale.
I didn’t ordered Esc case/heatsink and it was a mistake… I planed to install both Esc on the sloped part of the aluminium bottom, above potential water entry, but it’s quite tight…will see.
Have you thought about sprockets and gears yet?
Seems like current wheels wont go, at least would be interesting to see what do you come up with.
What’s your experience with these narrow wheels in general? Have u ridden such setup a lot?
I did for a while but cant say I was happy, the only up side was that these wheels are small and had lower power consumption versus bigger ones.
Otherwise on bad streets and sidewalk curbs they were rather hard and I think I could see wear on drive wheels quite soon, as usually after the ride the tires were considerably warm from the ride and whole contact with the road…
So yeh, I saw almost more downsides to them than plus sides. I guess these chinese 6inch ‘fat’ tires is a lot better option for riding.
Definetely should be a softer and more comfy ride using fatter wheels/tires.
Yes, I’m waiting for internal gears + spur gear (hopefully next week).
I’ve used these 7" wheels on the Flexboardz urban carver model. They have a lot of grip but needs to have the pressure accurately adjusted, hard enough to roll freely but not too much or it’s unconfortable…
The internal gear could almost fit inside for the hub of such tire
I plan to use these 7" wheels and/or 6,5" on this position (short wheelbase) and 8"/9" wheels on the other axle position (long wheel base), ideally while keeping the motor at the same position.
Mh ok, now I see u got 2 wheel positions available which is an interesting possibility.
Seems like your wheels are a bit bigger then, my wheels were 6 inch and 1.25’’ wide. Might be possible I ran them over inflated but non the less, there is little rubber and air in them, so not much suspension can be gained from them anyway.
The internal gear concept sounds good. How do u plan to acquire such internal gear ring?
Ive seen some 3d model designs but seeing one made from metal would be way different level. Though it seems that these plastic printed wheel gears are quite okay as long as motor gear/pinion is made from metal.
True, the 7" wheel are 2" wide…I’ve tried 6"x1.25" but it’s too narrow…so it’s either overinflated (too hard) or underinflated (too slow).
I’ll tell you where I get the internal gear if it doesn’t get destroyed after 5 mn of ride, otherwise, we will all forget about it and I won’t talk about oversized transmission…and yes, it has a steel motor gear.
Sadly, I don’t think that it can be used on truck as motor will interfere with hanger.
Yeh, would be interesting what you come up with.
The most affordable and biggest I found in 5mins, is this one:
Size seems good (at least for 7-9inch wheels), just needs some machining to fit to wheel and motor
Nice find!
Then you enter into the “modulus, width, max torque” question…and compare to what is used on other gear transmission, it seems way undersized… so I prefer to test before to make any claim
After successfully connecting/testing the electric stuff, I’m now assembling the different components.
Deck is too large (80cm x 30cm) for these 8" wheels. Here are the different wheels I had at home before lockdown, 7" to 9" that can fit the board. I will have to get some 6" to cover the whole pneumies rangeHow did u solve the drive train part? Does it have internal gear or wheel is not connected to motor yet?
