Hey guys, this is going to be my first build but I am still a beginner, so please don’t hustle to give me any recommendations or help on what you think throughout my build. I will try to keep you guys updated for this build as much as possible! I also haven’t mentioned that color scheme is key for when I build this, but other than that hope you guys like it!
Here are the parts for this build that I would like to do:
Prebuilt Board (I chose this one because #1 loaded boards are overused, #2 I like the form more, #3 It is Cheaper
Madrid TRANCE 39 TOPMOUNT
Trucks (Just incase the board setup isn’t good)
CALIBER G II 184MM 50° BLACK/BLACK
Bearings (Just incase the board setup isn’t good)
BONES BEARINGS REDS
ORANGATANG KEGEL RACE 80A
€16 x 4 = €64
Motor (Anyone have any cheaper ones that are good? AND I really love the sound of the boosted board motor… Anyone know similar ones?)
Alien 6374 HEV Outrunner brushless motor 240KV 3300W
36T ABEC Pulley Combo Kit
V4 Motor Mount (ONLY)
TORQUE ESC VESC ® BLDC Electronic Speed Controller
Battery (Don’t have one yet… Anyone have any good recommendations for a good 200 - 250 watt L-ion battery with 16 - 18k mAh??)
18650 DIY battery pack?
- battery percentage display
- Charging kit
Preferences for specs (km):
35+ top speed
18 - 20km range
Preferences for specs (miles):
22+ miles top speed
11 - 13 miles range (maybe 13 - 15)
What do you guys think of the build so far? I think I might paint the deck of the board some type of brown-ish wood color and then the enclosure matte black…
Hi @Riemerbuilds and welcome to the forum!
The sound of the motor is very different in BLDC or FOC mode, it’s a very individual. Some like super loud electric motors, some like whisper quite FOC.
If you are on a really tight budget, hobbyking sk3 motors are around 65€, they have lower quality but get the work done.
Tourqueboards got some great motors.
I bought my dual 190kv 6374 sensored motors from eskating. It is shipped from Italy so you can skip extra costs if you live in Europe.
The motor mount you said I assume is from torqueboards (diyelectricskateboards) and the part you listed is only half of the mount. You need the other part for srewing it to the truck.
The whole product is this one.
The battery setup is very dependent on your budget, the price can be as low as 100/150€ and as high as 700/800€. If you got some money, spend it on a good quality Li-Ion pack with BMS from barajabali, longhairedboy, eskating or the tesla battery guy (forgot his name). If you got a bit less and have the knowledge, build it yourself.
If you are on a tight budget go for some decent LiPos and a good balance charger.
I started off with some decent LiPos and a cheap as hell charger. I soon had to buy a better charger to see how my batteries held up. After that I had to buy a pair of better LiPo batteries.
All 4 batteries and 2 chargers + all the shipping fees ended up costing almost the same as a good liion pack.
Today I am building my own 12S4P Li-ion Samsung 30Q pack with BMS and fuse.
I know it seems tempting with some really cheap LiPos and a balance charger but what I’ve learned is that it costs more in the long run to cheap out in the beginning.
Regarding the terms you are using to describe the battery:
Watts is a measurement of energy per unit of time, which says nothing about how much energy is in the pack or how far you get. I like to think about it as how much power something draws. I think you are referring to Wh - WattHours which is a measurement of energy. WattHours gives a better indication of the total energy in the battery since it also considers the voltage.
So let’s say you want 20km range and you are going with a 10S setup. Let us also assume you will be drawing around 15 Wh/km.
That means we need a (20km * 15Wh/km = 300Wh) 300Wh battery.
We also assumed a 10S battery which has a 36V nominal voltage (3.6 * 10) which means that we need (300Wh / 36V = 8,33Ah) around 8Ah on our battery.
Going with LiPo we could go with a 5S1P 4000mAh, connect 2 of them in parallel, then connect such a pack in series. We need 4x 5S1P 4000mAh Batteries to make a 10S2P for reaching your goal.
If we are going Li-ion and Samsung 30Q cells (3000mAH) we would need a 10S3P battery to reach our goal.
I know this was a long post and I took some time to help you out. Maybe a bit too in depth, idk, hope it helps.
Side note, your title says “V1 boosted board modification” but you are trying to build a completely new board which doesn’t even have the signature deck of the boosted, might want to have a better title.
Glad to help.
Search on remote on the forum and you will find a couple good ones.
Enclosures - psychtiller/mastercho ate really good and if you are buying from eskating check their enclosures aswell.
Just found an okay looking motor mount and debating whether or not I will 3d print my own motor mount, buy the 60 dollar motor mount from diy electric skateboards, or buy this motor mount, which seems totally fine… I also wanted to know if the belt would be okay since it is 15 mm… Other than that I will be working on a 3d print model enclosure for everything that I need…
That mount is a generic and you will have to grind some flat spots for it to move.
I would recommend going for the diyelectricskateboard mount because I have seen that other mount break. Not saying it would work just that it will be harder to not make it move and more likely to break.
If they send you both pulleys and belt with the mount I am sure the belt will work.
Okay perfect, thank you! I am still working on the 3d print design on CAD for the casing of everything that I will be using, but I totally forgot about all the tools that I need… Do I need to get this in order to make sure that the controller will be working the way I want it to?
You listed the VESC as your ESC, that one is programmed via usb on the computer.
The programming card are for the pther ESCs like the 6S version
Okay, I have kept this project in mind and have done some more research and I have just finished the order for these parts:
Update on Build:
I still have a 6374 outrunner motor, but sealed and sensored. Cost a little bit more, but it is worth it. (it is so much bigger than I thought it would be.
Note to everyone:
Diyelectricskateboards takes more than 2 weeks for shipping around Europe…
AND MADRID SKATEBOARDS HAVE REALLY GOOD FLEX AND QUALITY BOARDS, MINE WAS 70 BUCKS!
45 km top speed
20 - 25 km range
I used the electric skateboard calculator for this. (Anyone know if the site is actually reliable?)
Oh yeah and I hate the term skateboard, aren’t these builds on longboards usually?
Build so far
- So I made the absolute beginners mistake by ordering one truck, so I need to wait for the other one to come, but although I was sick I did some of the dirty work which is pretty ironic but worked out in the end… Motor and battery came as well!
The esk8 calculator http://calc.esk8.today gives pretty accurate values. I set motor efficiency to 82 to get the speed right. I have a 6374 single motor similar to yours. Fully loaded batt gives top speed of around 44 kmh with 97mm wheels and geared at 15/40. I weigh 78 kg and board is 9.
Thanks man, just checked it out and here are my updated specs:
25 - 30 km
100% | 45 km/h
80% | 36 km/hr
70% | 32 km/hr
I weigh like 51 kg (108 lbs, don’t be too surprised)
You won’t get that sort of range. 20km tops most likely around 18-15km
Once the build is done I will test it, I used this website to get the estimated specs http://calc.esk8.today/ . Remember, I am 51 kg, but I would like to know what makes you say that.
Well the Wh of your pack is 180Wh, now the average is 10Wh per 1km. 180/10 = 18 so around 18 maybe a little more since your light and if there aren’t any hills. If you push when you start and don’t ride topspeed the whole time you might reach 20km
Why 10 wh? Isn’t that if I were to go top speed the whole way through? @pat.speed
No, 10Wh/per km is an average of how much power you will use. Lots of people have don’t tests on this and it seems to be very accurate
I am planning to build some features in my Magic Union Drop-down which is the best budget longboard. I bought because of its bearing quality. Apart from bearing, this longboard is perfect in every way. Not only is this board budget-friendly, but the drop-down shape makes it perfectly suitable for downhill and freestyle riding.