Electric Skateboard Motor | Enertion R-SPEC 2.0 190kv 6355

@onloop are you still pondering a sensored version of the r-spec?

Is it possibly to get these motors to start from a standstill? I have tweaked the sensor mode settings in BLDC tool under the sensor(less) tab but the motors only go under sensorless mode and I have to push to start up.

Cheers, Moja.

Yeah you should be able to get them to start easily from Stationary. Normally there is a little bit of a shutter feeling then off you go.

Did you run the motor detection in the vesc to make sure it is configured for the r-spec motors?

You can also change the start up boost setting’s

Check this thread for more info;

Opinions on how this motor would compare? looks like a little beast from the specs

130kv is really low, so you’d have to be running 12s- and even then you’d probably have to gear it up more than normal to get a decent top speed.

it’s sensored, and 6374 vs 6355, but I’d just buy the turnigy 190kv 6374 for $80 and call it a day if I wanted a bigger motor-

the one thing you gotta take into consideration though is that for its size, the enertion motor is pretty strong; it’s just like the tacon motors that a lot of people love.

Alien rates it for 10S though, so 12S would probably work but who knows for how long. Why would anyone want a kv that low? Are they climbing trees or pulling other skaters out of the mud pits?

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how could i forget? Treeboarding is all the rage in the UK now according to my friend in the UK.

https://instagram.com/p/8dOVyom56I/?taken-by=longboardlewis

ok so why are these boards so high?

because they’re loaded

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What is legit?

I see numbers all over about what power motors produce and they’re all bull or made from fairy dust.

But the r-spec is pulling ahead there…how can it be 100 grams lighter ,exactly, 20kv less ( which would reduce the power output) yet produce almost 800 watts more…yet seem to be exactly the same dimensions and look? Weight is the real indicator of power and yours is somehow lighter http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Maytech-electric-skateboard-parts-motor-skate_60379256169.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.82.J98GLR

Just trying to keep it real.

How do you make these claims? It’s as if you expect everyone to not be aware and take your word for it and I guess most do

“use the highest quality motors to maximise performance and deliver pavement cracking torque. Enertion Boards is now offering the R-SPEC EBOARD MOTOR - Built from the ground up to be the the benchmark motor for building electric skateboards. Choose Enertion motors for your electric skateboard because the alternatives from the hobby shop are not designed with quality bearings suitable for carrying human size loads, they will often use leads that are inflexible & have tiny 4mm connectors that just can’t handle the high amps that can often be pulled into the motor when climbing steep hills. The Enertion R-SPEC motor has large open ports to maximise air-flow and minimize weight. The R-SPEC motors offer minimal drag when unpowered allowing the smoothest free ride out of any motor on the market.”

What makes it highest quality? Any manufacturer making such a claim will say why. “built from the ground up” huh? Hobby shop bearings and your bearings don’t take human sized loads just the motor’s and the load they can take is very much so determined by the size alone. Typically multistrand wire that’s used in a motor and then extended into the motor leads is the least desirable. 4mm connectors CAN handle the amps. Less drag than any motor on the market?

Is this an informational site or a promotional site. It could be both if you gave real information but if you don’t those of us who know the littlest bit have to speak up.

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not only can they handle Amps but they also fall out less often than 5.5mm connectors

well I’m intrigued now.

that really depends on which ones you buy, some are just shit…

actually these bullets connectors are all shit… i am currently planning on how to get rid of them all together!

Solder them together?

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I find that i am always sticking a screwdriver in and bending the segments outwards with the 5.5mm bullets. Never any suchbproblems with 4mm.

I agree with @NNGG solder EVERYTHING.

I would solder but for now electric tape is good enough.

Something that is easy & reliable. Maybe something like this

3M (and others) have shrink tube with an adhesive on the inside. When you make it shrink the glue starts to meld and creates a strong connection. Works good with bullet connectors though. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Piece/dp/B008HMG502

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i’m sticking with 5.5mm bullets. I like them and they don’t give me any problems. Spreading the prongs with a tiny screwdriver is the only thing you ever need to do when they’re loose, if they’re loose, and in my experience, it isn’t that often. They make a lot of sense when using 10awg wire over a coupled connector like hte XT-60s and 90s whe you need wire routing flexibility but still want the modularity required for swapping parts without a soldering iron. 4mm bullets make more sense on 12awg wire, but i don’t use 12awg wire, unless it comes on the motor and is an adequate superworm type silicone and high strand count wire. ESPECIALLY on anything under 10S.

if you’re motor wires are unplugging or working thier way out, there are other things that need to be checked before you jump in and spread your prongs for the quick fix. Maybe theres just too much tension on your motor wires. Maybe you should have used heat shrink over the connection.

if you have bettery cables unplugging in your box, well… same thing. heatshrink or tape. And why the hell is there that much tension on anything INSIDE the box?

I’m struggling here to think of a situation where bullets are the actual cause of the problem and not something else.

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