My solution to living in off campus apartments and avoiding the bus: The Electric Sportster!
First Person POV
The Bustin Sportster 2017 “Dakota” https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/decks/72430/bustin-2017-sportster-longboard-skateboard-deck-w-grip/
DKL Non-Abrasive Griptape (Not Shown) Panhead Bolts and T-Nuts for the Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/M6-1-00-Button-Socket-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B01F7OJWUW/ https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-50Pcs-Prongs-Plated-Fixing/dp/B00XXFZUWC/ Torqueboards Mini Remote diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-2-4ghz-mini-remote-controller/ Torqueboards Dual Hub Motor Kit diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-hub-motor-dual/ 4mm to 5.5mm Bullet Connector Adapter diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/wire-extensions-4mm-to-5-5mm/ Shredlights https://shredlights.com/collections/products/products/copy-of-light-combo-pack-1?variant=41211116739 Khiro Drop-Through Shock Pads, 1/4" and 3/16" https://www.amazon.com/Khiro-Drop-Through-Black-Shock-Pads/dp/B01BGLQFGY/ https://www.amazon.com/Khiro-Drop-Through-Shock-Pad-Black/dp/B00U9PPYSY/ DIY Electric Skateboard 12s2p (43V, 6Ah, 259Wh) Battery and Enclosure diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-battery-epower-pack-12s2p/ Torqueboads VESC diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/ VESC CAN Bus Connector diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-canbus-connector/ VESC Sensor Wires diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-sensor-wires/ Male to Male Servo Connector diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/male-male-servo-connector/ Dual VESC XT90 Parallel Connector diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/dual-vesc-xt90-parallel-connector/
The Buildhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVfkxJiqLkA (YT: Installing T-Nuts In Wood | Fasteners101)
To replace the griptape, I used non-abrasive griptape from DKL Skateboarding to avoid any more damage to shoes and pants that come from regular griptape.
Here is my attempt at recreating the original griptape pattern that came with the board. Because the sheet of DKL griptape was not as wide as the board, I decided to include a gap in the center so the griptape could reach all the way across the board.
The battery I chose was the 12s2p battery from . In order to fully utilize the high torque of my motors, I needed to use a high voltage, which is why I decided to get a battery with 12 cells in series over 6 cells. The battery from also came with an enclosure, which meant I didn’t have to make that myself.
The battery includes an XT90 connector, 2 USB charging ports for devices like cell phones or the Shredlights, an on-off switch, and a charging port. Sadly, I discovered that when going over sharp bumps that hit the bottom of my board, the switch gets hit and the board shuts off, and the charging port cover has been broken off. When I am more able to make my own enclosure, I plan on getting a 12s2p Stealth Pack from Miami Electric Boards and installing a charging port and on-off switch on the side of the board, leaving the bottom completely flat.
Here is the enclosure for the battery and electronics. I hot glued 2 nuts on the bottom of the battery so that the charging port doesn’t get stuck beneath the top of the enclosure, inaccessible to the charger.
The enclosure came with velcro straps and rubber tubing to better weatherproof the battery and electronics inside.
Here is the battery installed into the enclosure and secured with the straps.
With the leftover space I could just snugly fit the 2 VESCs that control the motors along with the RC receiver.
I drilled 2 additional holes in the enclosure so the VESC Sensor Wires could also get through to the motors.
The motor setup I am using is a dual hub motor drive with 90mm wheels. The motor is rated at 75kv, which handles inclines better than the higher kv version also available, meant for 6s batteries.
I applied Loctite onto the bolts, however some did end up getting applied to the inside of the hole for the bolt before it reached the threaded part, so I put a little extra just in case.
I also applied Loctite to the bolts that secure the motor onto the trucks.
I used the 1/4" shock pads between the baseplate of the trucks and the board because the slot is actually a little too narrow to slide the baseplate all the way against the deck. However, it does fit just fine with the 1/4" shock pads. I also installed 3/16" shockpads beneath the board with washers to absorb shock during a bumpy ride.
Here is the battery enclosure installed with the large bolts, which also have Loctite applied for more security.
If the motors go backwards when you push the throttle to go forward, just swap any 2 phase wires and run the detection with the BLDC tool again.
With the front and rear Shredlights installed, the build is complete!
The clearance isn’t too bad. Just need to work on an enclosure for those excess wires now…