Electronic Q for noobs

What ESC/BATTERY/MOTOR match for -25mph -15miles

Can u guys tell me what to look for when matching these parts :slight_smile:

there are more than a few ways to get what you want. its really a question of $$ and builder skills.

heres my usual rec http://esk8.today/guides/build-guide/

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Straight answer to your question: “…depends on wheel size”

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Here is the most common setup for your requirements

10S4P battery on Samsung 30q 6374 190kv motor 97mm wheel size 15/40T pulleys Vesc (I’ll still call it that way forever)

I typically would work backwards from battery (# Series) to ESC (that can handle that voltage/# S).

Deck and wheels - i like bigger wheels… but not every deck will clear even 83mm wheels (my recommended starter setup). So first determining deck you like and then fitting wheels that you can squeeze in with minimal risers. (again my preference - i like to keep deck height lower for pushing and more stability). So a typical top mount deck you’ll probably need 1/4-1/2 risers (i do like 1/8 shock pads for helping absorb vibrations/bumps a bit). If you go with a symmetrical deck like a vanguard - you can probably fit 97’s w/o issue. I’d still suggest 83mm as a start. If on a budget some 83mm clones are hard to beat for the $. If down the road you want softer thane get legit flywheels (if you can find).

So in my theoretical build i’d have 8-10s (lipo - li-ion is a lot more $ and more voltage sag than nicer lipo) - VESC - 83mm wheels. And 190-200kv motor tops to avoid 60k ERPM issue w/ VESC 4.xx.

Then you just need to figure out gearing for your speed wanted.

83mm - 190kv - 10s - 15/36 = 26/27mph same - 8s - 22mph

If you want more hills i might go to 40t wheel gear (DIYes 12mm or 15mm wide from @Titoxd10001): 83mm - 190kv - 10s - 15/40 = 24mph

If you are on a budget, and especially if you a lighter rider - a single motor setup should work well unless you have big hills or want to accelerate like a bat outta hell. I’m a big guy and ride single setups regularly just fine. I might walk up some steeper hills and go slower up others…

The “build guide” @saul posted is a good start. One clarification/edit i’d suggest is regarding dual motors:

[quote] Booster Build #3:

Dual motors mean double the torque, higher top speed, and more hill climbing ability.[/quote] Not totally true. On the flats dual motors will not get you a faster top speed - your speed is limited by voltage/kv and gearing. one motor or two will have the same speed. Getting quickly to that top speed (acceleration), and going uphill will benefit from a second motor.

AND an obligatory caution especially for a new rider:

Ride within your skill level. If you are a long time downhill ninja - cool. “25 mph” sounds like a great idea… but if you don’t have appropriate skills - it’s stupid fast and bone breaking speed. Wear appropriate gear for the speed you intend to ride. Downhill folks wear leathers for a reason. A helmet really should be a must regardless of speed. /soapbox

My long-winded .02


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in my long winded reply - i didn’t comment on range…

Again i suggest lipo over li-ion to start. Yes li-ion are sexier… slim… and safer (given reasonable precaution). But they are more $, have more voltage sag (depending on battery chosen, and # parallel to distribute amp load), and heavier Wh to Wh.

Starting and wanting the lightest, most powerful battery w/ minimal sag - i still think quality lipo is a great start.

Range = 10Wh = 1km (flats w/o racing). so with your goal of 15mi (24km), you want a 240+Wh pack. If you really need the full 15mi range i’d build in a bit extra personally.

To determine Wh: Take your pack voltage (10s for simplicity = 42v) x Ah (mAh/Ah 5000mAh=5Ah) = Wh. So a 10s(42v) x 5Ah = 210Wh.