That picture doesn’t really show the rake much at all, but it is definitely felt when on deck.
The image does show the segmented modules, I can confirm that the flex of the deck is not discernibly affected at all, feels just like pre-build, perhaps planted a bit more (due to weight). I had feared speed wobbles and have my trocks pinned down fairly tight. I can try loosening the trucks off to get a bit more turn.
I really do not like the wide TB trucks at all and will avoid them at all costs next time, their road feel is shocking.
I’ve been riding on my TB218’s all summer unpowered, and I haven’t noticed. I wear them super loose though. Great idea about the rake, I’m gonna have to try that at some point!
Hit pause for a long while. But thought i’d get going on a wheel pulley for the Balut wheels.
Took a crack at modelling on IPad with Shapr3D which is surprisingly intuitive once you learn the basics. Aiming to test the fit into the spokes, recently picked up a Anycubic Photon resin printer, which i will be using for wheel pulleys amongst other projects.
Unfortunately, when you model with the wrong dimensions, you also print at the wrong dimensions . Will take another crack at it and probably move back to Fusion 360. Shapr3D is great for concept work, but seems difficult to go back & control.
If anyone can share best practice strategies for measuring objects that would be great. So far jamming Verniers around the place is the go, getting into corners has been difficult.
My best technique for complex shapes without expensive measuring equipment is pictures, it has to be as perpendicular as possible to minimize distortion
Most CADs have a picture sketch option with an scale, just measure something easy with Verniers and use that as reference, works really well when absolute precision is not required
Also use that only on dimension you can’t measure, do actual measurements whenever possible
I was worried distortion in the image might mess up my measurements, realizing now that was silly.
On the side, i’m looking to make my own custom in ear monitors, so i’m planning on grabbing a turntable to do 360 scans of ear impressions via photogrammetry. So that going well, i will use the same method to scan the wheels properly and get cracking on those pulleys
For those unfamiliar with photogrammetry. Think ballerina boy, but one camera with target spinning in my case for cost/pragmatic reasons.
Will be picking up the turntable i found out about below. I was actually looking for a 3D scanner but quickly realized the good ones are too expensive and the cheap ones are not good enough for what i want to do. This review is a half intro to photogrammetry too which might be helpful.
Plan on using Meshroom which is supposedly a free and feature rich photogrammetry software, so don’t buy the paid stuff straight away! Give this a go.
https://alicevision.github.io
A mix between parametric modelling and trial and error with 3D prints is the easiest way.
Do the quickest possible print to save time. Like, you can print one section and have it like 1 cm tall. That will be a 15min print on an fdm print. Once you get the shape right then its angles.
Like print this and only this until you get it right
Good luck on the scan, remember, light is everything, a overcast day is perfect, or a soft box if you have, Meshroom produces some amazing results, but keep in mind that scanning the wheel will be a pain, the two tone feature less surface provides almost no reference points between photos, and plus the holes are really deep also feature less
. Will take another crack at it and probably move back to Fusion 360. Shapr3D is great for concept work, but seems difficult to go back & control.
