Failed build 2 years ago and gave up, desperately need help on second try

[ArsenalMain]

@deucesdown

So try to top off right before you ride for maximum cycle life. You can also charge to 4.1v/cell to roughly double cycle life, but doing this will not give bms an opportunity to balance the pack, so at least once a month give it a full charge.

This sounds great. I also didn’t realize that lion doesn’t have the memory effect that nicad/nimh has.

@deucesdown

You can try both and decide for yourself.

I have looked into both at this point, and considering that both have pretty easy wizards to set stuff up, there ultimately isn’t much of a difference between these two correct?

@deucesdown

You’re on a single 4.12 vesc. I think a safe motor max is 60a (but start at 50a). Battery max, safe is 30A. I don’t think it’s safe to set more than 35A (but you may want to try higher).

At least, looking at the torquboard specs for this esc and motor, the esc is rated at a 50a continuous max and a 240a peak. https:///products/torque-esc-bldc-electronic-speed-controller

And the motor is rated for 80a max. https:///collections/electric-skateboard-motors/products/electric-skateboard-motor-6374-190kv

Could I reasonably out 50a for the battery max and 50a for the motor max. In reality, the motor could take 80a, but if this is true:

@deucesdown

You get the smoothest control by setting both to the same number.

Than could I set both to 50a? Is is the torquboard esc not really recommended to use the 50a max and keep it closer to 40a? Just considering my battery is 10s5p, then I would hate to only use 30a of the possible 100a output.

@deucesdown

on your 4.12hw esc, do NOT use FOC. I repeat, do NOT use FOC. It has a very very good chance of frying the drv.

Thank you for this. I was considering using the foc so I’ll make sure to stay clear of it for now until I get a vesc-6/x/focbox to be safe.

@deucesdown

With your story,

Man, you don’t even know the half of it

@deucesdown

Finally, you should hit up @GeraldSwerdfegger with his generous offer!

Absolutely, I’m trying to get all the help I can find and it’s always nicer whne you can ask questions in person and work through solutions. Infinitely harder over a forum.

@deucesdown

buy him cookies,

If he really helps me out, I may just have to one up that and bring him some of my homebrew.

Last couple things (for now lol): When setting the motor min, do you set it to be equal and opposite of the motor min? And what exactly does this relate to in the actual ride? Is it the brake at high speeds?

Same question but with bat min? I’ve seen people recommend it anywhere from -10 to - 20. Is this the high speed break or low speed?

Do you recommend enabling reverse within the vesc or do you personally not prefer it?

Lastly, I justed wanted to thank you again for going out of your way to give me some advice. Really appreciate it. And it goes out to everyone on this thread and the two forums. I think the group that makes up this hobby are all really positive and selfless and it’s been a blast being apart of it.

[deucesdown]

@ArsenalMain

ultimately isn’t much of a difference between these two correct?

Ack firmware is basically an old version of vesc firmware with a few tweaks. There have been many changes, but mostly the ride is the same. The UI has been changed a lot, including the wizards I believe.

But, as we speak, last night vesc tool announced/shipped a pretty interesting new feature for sensorless start from standstill.

@ArsenalMain

rated for 80a max

@ArsenalMain

In reality, the motor could take 80a

Don’t pay much attention to listed specs on things like esc and motor. Look for hard won community experience.

For you especially start with the safe settings, and creep up only if needed after reading a bunch. I’m purposefully trying to stay away from optimal, and complicated discussion of numbers, and generalizing some relationships, and some safe limit numbers I’ve read many times on the forums. Keep it simple until you have it working reliably.

You also want to focus on the low voltage cutoffs. Set them very very conservatively at first, and don’t discharge your pack past say 50%. This is where many destroy their multiple hundred dollar pack in their first few excited rides.

@ArsenalMain

I would hate to only use 30a of the possible 100a output.

You should seriously consider dual motor if you’re looking at those numbers that way It’s really hard to pull anything close to 100a from one esc, and dual gives you more than double the torque and more important, braking.

@ArsenalMain

Last couple things (for now lol): When setting the motor min, do you set it to be equal and opposite of the motor min? And what exactly does this relate to in the actual ride? Is it the brake at high speeds?

Same question but with bat min? I’ve seen people recommend it anywhere from -10 to - 20. Is this the high speed break or low speed?

motor max/min affect low speeds, battery max/min affect high speeds. We talked about max. For battery min, typically you set it to what your pack can handle in fast charge mode. Usually this isn’t quite enough, and most people creep it up (technically down, as it’s a negative number) until they have okay brakes. Raising this can also increase your chance of frying the vesc if you brake hard at full charge.

motor min, you can raise it until it feels good up to maybe -60 maybe even -80.

The closer motor/battery min and motor/battery max are to each other the smoother the throttle will be. But this is usually not practical, and motor settings will be quite a bit higher than battery settings.

@ArsenalMain

Do you recommend enabling reverse within the vesc or do you personally not prefer it?

You should probably start with current (or watt) mode brake with no reverse. Play with it after everything is working well, see for yourself. Ackmaniac’s android app makes it really easy to temporarily change modes on the fly.

@ArsenalMain

Lastly, I justed wanted to thank you again for going out of your way to give me some advice

Dude all of us feel your pain! Acutely! And we’re stoked to see you back on it. Wear helmet and gloves minimum especially on test rides!

[ArsenalMain]

@deucesdown

Ackmaniac’s android app makes it really easy to temporarily change modes on the fly.

Do I need an HM-10 module in orded to connect it to my ackmaniac android app?

[itsrow]

Yessir, and I have a LiPo 3s1p x 4 if you want some pictures for balacing connections and general setup.

[deucesdown]

https://buildkitboards.com/collections/accessories/products/vesc-bluetooth-adapter#

https://forum./t/us-sale-bluetooth-modules-remote/17494

I think he has a shit-ton of the enertion ones, and I believe they’ll work.

@itsrow

LiPo 3s1p x 4

This is nice but he has a TB 4.12, risky for 12s. 6s or 9s would work lol but you probably want to sell all 4 as a set.

[itsrow]

Standard 4.12s with at least 600UF of capacitance are alright, I’ve been running them for months. They just need a little more attention and I wouldn’t brother trying them in FOC or the DRVs going to give out on motor detection.

[deucesdown]

Dude this guy blew his whole electronics stack at least once. I don’t think he should take chances in this round. The TB 4.12 is kind of notorious – might have a strong one, but might have a weak one.

[itsrow]

I’ve heard strange stories about the TB4.12s aswell so that’s fair, I’d probably go with 3s1p 8Ah x 3 Turnigy graphenes in this situation so he can makeup for lost total power using higher amps.

[deucesdown]

@itsrow

3s1p 8Ah x 3 Turnigy graphenes

IMO zippys or vanilla turnigys for this round, or a cheap china pack, until he figures out how to maintain a pack.

[itsrow]

I’ve found graphenes are pretty close to the same price as basic bitch turnigys and the cycle life just isn’t there, wouldn’t even bother wasting his time with them. Zippys yeah they’re good.

[ArsenalMain]

When I turn on my controller (Miamiboards) the light turns on but it’s constantly orange and doesnt move from the lowest spot, no matter what I do. Does this mean it just isn’t connected to the board (obviously because there’s still no battery), or broken. I ask because I’m just trying to figure out if it’s fully charged, but I have no idea.

[ArsenalMain]

Sorry, kinda a very specific question