So I know I’m supposed to be working on a different project (the eFoil) but in preparation for spring I’ve decided to do one more sk8 project - my first one that will actually be based on a skateboard deck - the Alki Cruiser - I’m hoping to mimic old-school.
But I want to skate by all the difficult work (see what I did there) and only make a few changes.
I got this deck:
and want to route 2 channels down the center and put in 10S2P of these cells giving me 8400 MaH, just enough, I calculate, to get from one end of Alki beach to the other and back (about 16 miles going the long way). These cells are larger than the 18650’s, so a custom channel, probably with a stylish bamboo cover to hide it all away.
But here’s the tricky part. I want to buy a Backfire G2T and cannibalize the motors, the remote, the driver and the BMS and install in this build. The G2T uses Samsung 30Q’s so they’re just 18650’s. I don’t think the BMS would even notice that I swapped in higher capacity so long as I wired them up properly.
So the question is has anyone else done a transplant like this successfully? Should I go for it or am I going down a path that will lead to a lot of money wasted?
bms work with any cells as long as they have the same nominal voltage and max voltage… for example a bms for 18650’s can be used with 20700 and 21700 cells (even though when bms are designed the designer dont make it cell specific they just state lithium ion and lithium polymer)
and everything sound work in thoery. and why swap out the 30q’s? the backfire esc needs atleast 24a to work, any cell with a capacity higer than 3000mah has 10a discharge basically…
Darn it, the other requirement that I didn’t mention was keeping it as light as possible but it sounds like I’m going to 3P 18650’s. But maybe that’s not so bad since I get 2P for free when I buy the G2T I just need to buy 10 more cells.
Cheaper actually, though I had those cells earmarked for an older esk8 with a dead battery pack.
Thanks again for your input.
Do you think the fuel gauge on the remote is calibrated only for the original pack, or will it show true for any pack?
I’ll have to think about this. All my boards to date have been stupidly heavy (because they are all dual motor 10S5P’s amongst other things) I might be willing to sacrifice range for weight in this case.
I would add 10 cells to the pack you already have, much cheaper and you will end up with more range.
However an even better option would be to buy some hubs and the rest of the parts separately then you can have whatever battery you want and no big cases, however this could cost more depending on what you want