There’s a limitation to how much ferrofluid you can use. Do not even try using mineral spirit. You probably dissolve the glue holding the magnets to the rotor plus it’s a volatile solvent. You need to use nonconductive. noncombustible, inert substances such as mineral oil.
Ferrofluid effectively works as a thermal wiper cause it stores itself between magnets space upon rotation. It adds a tiny bit of drag (non-noticeable on e-bike type hubs) but also raises the thermal “patch” between stator and rotor.
If you have waterproof hubs for your skateboard, you can try and use it (maybe 1ml, 1,5ml would be more than enough for a tiny can). Note also that on e-bike style hubs, heat is radiated toward the outside can of the motor. There’s also this mighty mod they do where they add alu fans around the can, so the can itself becomes active cooling while rotating.
On a skateboard your hub motor is stuck inside the PU wheel, the heat would go straight to it… either not being dissipated in the end or causing the PU to melt. See what I mean ?
Now maybe it can do wonders on Carvon-type direct drives, since the cans of Direct drive are exposed outside of the PU (and the wheel remains intact).
Yea. Not melting temp but deterioration. Often turns to white powder under stress or stretches
If ur winding insulation, and magnet currie number, and bearing grease can go higher u can, but the copper wire resistance goes up w heat too so have less eff
Thanks, it seems to improve 20~50% heat dissipation over “sealed”. FF seems to evaporate as the motor heats up tho
as alternative, also found sythetic engine oil along with ATF, does the same tric tho, it could be messy and needs about 50ml based ond 250w sized hub.
not so sure why one would use ATF over engine oil as it cools and rubricate better and does not burn well.
Is it because ATF is less viscos and have less drag?
I’m not so good with cars😝