Final recommendations for first build

ESK8 Builds
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Hello, while my account my not reflect it, I have been scouring this site for the past couple weeks, gradually learning about all the different components and parts. At this point, I think that I have figured out what I plan to order and wanted to check with the community to see if you guys had any final recommendations on my parts and if I should change/add anything. Here it goes: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-192KV Brushless Outrunner Motor

2x Zippy Flightmax 8000mAh 5s1p 30c with XT90 in series 10s HCX-D223V1 BMS http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/d/0/d01297cebb990b052debcf541833fb57342cbbba.png

36V 4AMP Luna Mini Charger

DIY Torque VESC collections/featured-items/products/torque-esc-vesc-bldc-electronic-speed-controller Miami Beach Benchwheel Controller https://miamielectricboards.com/shop-1/handheld-electric-remote

DIY Single Drive Mechanical Motor Kit collections/featured-items/products/single-motor-mechanical-kit

In addition to these main parts i will also be getting (But not linking) 10AWG Battery Series Connector XT90-S Anti-Spark Connector Voltage Monitor SPDT Switch 5s Battery Wire Balance Extender XT90 Female-Wire XT90 Male-wire XT60 Connectors 12AWG Black Wire 12AWG Red Wire

Am i forgetting any important miscellaneous items or is there anything that you would advise me differently?

Thank you for reading this post and I appreciate all the help that you guys, the community, offers for us new builders. I really makes our introduction to electric boards and first build attempts much smoother.

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A good soldering iron and solder, heat shrink tubing, a deck, and an enclosure.

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I have a soldering iron from a previous project. Im using using a board I already own, and I was thinking that I would just start with some plastic sealed food containers. And I totally forgot about heat shrink tubing. Quick question, what strength thread locker would you recommend?

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Blue loktite is all you need. Look at home Depot and Lowe’s for plant trays. They are typically stronger than tackle boxes and cheaper & better sized.

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If you are using 5 or 4 M screws. DONOT BUY red loktite. They will NOT come off. I learned it the hard way :unamused:

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Make sure your iron has enough power to solder 12awg wire - that’s more than most radio shack pencil style irons can easily handle.

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This is the soldering iron that I got for higher wattage. I also have a 200W Weller soldering gun.

You also might want to consider five of these batteries instead of two of the Zippy packs for a thinner form factor and less voltage sag.

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Does the batteries you recommended have less voltage sag because of the 300a discharge capability? Because the two zippy ones I have on the list can handle 240. Or am I missing the reason why. And ya I could definitely do that, put the 5 in series like @Namasaki did in his build. How much more would you recommend that over tmy current batteries

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Also, I was thinking about changing the motor to the diy sensored 6374 190kv motor. This is because I don’t know if the motor I chose has a keyway and I don’t know how to make one. Nt hold up is that it is ~1000w less power and cost 40 more. What do you guys think?

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Check out @scepterr’s dark matter motors.

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First of all you need to understand that multiplying the capacity and the C rating does not give a true current capability with Lipos. I was not aware of this at the time I posted my Lipo build. My 5ah 60C batteries can in no wise handle 300a Neither can Zippy’s 8ah 30C batteries handle 240a And 5ah 20C batteries will in no wise handle 100a Still Lipos with higher C rating are better than Lipos with lower C ratings. And I do get a some voltage sag with my 5ah 60C Lipos when climbing steep hills, maybe 1-1.5v off total 10s voltage but when accelerating on flats the sag is only about 0.5 volts off the total 10s voltage.

SMC is the only company I know of that states true current capability for their Lipos

22 PM https://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_119&product_id=467

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Yeah, that’s why I got those batteries. I also heard that the Turnigy cells are more reliable than the Zippys.

The SK3 6374 doesn’t have a keyway. You have to grind flat spots into the shaft to get the pulley to hold.

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I just checked my soldering iron, it is 110v, 60w with a temp range from 200-450c. Is this good enough for the 10 and 12awg wires?

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My only hold up with those batteries is that the capacity is only 5Ah instead of 8Ah. Do you think the weight difference and lesser volt sag is worth the smaller capacity?

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I’m not sure… 60W is probably passable but it’ll be a little difficult. I doubt it’s that much worse than the 75W one that I recommended.

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How much range do you want/need?

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I was hoping for around 30mph top speed and 15 mile range.

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250wh :ok_hand:

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Im sorry, what do you mean by this? Im confused

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You should put together a battery pack with around 250 watt-hours, a unit of energy calculated by multiplying amp-hours and voltage. Or less technically do [mah] / 1000 * [# of cells in series] * 3.7 Judging from your 8ah 10s1p setup (296wh), you should get more than 15 miles.

This is estimated from my experience, I usually get a wh-to-mile efficiency of 13wh/mi at 17mph. Your results may vary depending on your weight, terrain, turbulence, and setup. So I assumed 16wh/mi for you.

And since you are using 30c lipos for energy reservoir your speed should only be bottle-necked by your Esc(Vesc hopefully), motor, and mechanical setup. :grinning: