Finishing My Parts List (Need Help!)

https://1drv.ms/x/s!AmnOTb2bIoGfu2nBQyt0bcdzQ9IZ

Ok, here’s the spiel that I’m sure you’ve all read a dozen or so times…

New builder needs help because he has no idea what he’s doing!! Ok, I kinda know what I’m doing…but I don’t want to waste money here! haha

I’m getting really close to being able to buy parts here, but I need some advice with the nitty gritty stuff. The things that are glossed over in pretty much all builds I saw. Things like connectors, bearings, and pulleys/belts.

I think I have the big stuff sorted out but I’m willing to take advice!! To my knowledge everything here is compatible but I have no way to be sure.

And just because you guys have first hand experience with some of the parts I’m gonna tag you :stuck_out_tongue: Hope you don’t mind!

@Maxid @treenutter @psychotiller @FLATLINEcustoms @mmaner

EDIT: Blah stuff I forgot to include

I’m ~170LBS I wanna go about 25-30 MPH and have good distance. And I’d like to keep everything slightly cheap. I’d say no more than 800USD if possible.

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Mostly it looks like a solid build plan.

I would suggest a different VESC. I’ve never owned the Maytech but I’ve heard both good and bad. You might try this VESC from Unik. You are in Europe right?

I’m looking forward to seeing those trucks in action, I want a set as well. Good luck and just yell if you need an assist.

I am in the states! I guess I should update my profile a bit…

I might take my chances with this VESC mostly to keep pricing down. But we’ll see.

Ahh cool, I didnt look at your profile I jsut assumed…who knows why :). I would highly suggest the DIY/TB VESC, its only $9 more than the Maytec and its solid as a rock. Also, the MEB VESC is great, it has a built in heat sink and small footprint, but don’t run it in FOC.

diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/ https://miamielectricboards.com/shop-1/vesc

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If you are still looking for bearings, check out… https://www.amazon.com/Dark-Wolf-Skateboard-Bearings-Spacers/dp/B00MM1FFUK/ref=pd_sbs_468_17?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XBTX15I&pd_rd_r=J9W885F9QCXE9KX6NGFH&pd_rd_w=E8vmm&pd_rd_wg=TqFpd&refRID=J9W885F9QCXE9KX6NGFH&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Skater-Precision-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B01M7YJZ5G/ref=pd_sbs_468_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M7YJZ5G&pd_rd_r=J9W885F9QCXE9KX6NGFH&pd_rd_w=E8vmm&pd_rd_wg=TqFpd&refRID=J9W885F9QCXE9KX6NGFH Both are good bearings.

If you have access to a 3D printer, there’s a couple of panel mounts and a fob cover for XT-90S loop keys here…

I would ask @Maxid about pulleys for the 3D printed hubs, but you will probably want a 60 tooth pulley and a 340-5M-12 or 340-5M-15 belt.

I like the idea of the Nunchuck remote, but if you want something solid to get started with, check out the mini-remote. Not my favorite remote by any means but its rock solid performance wise, no dropouts and pretty tough. Also, there are a few people working on mods for it, me being one of them.

Lastly, you will wire, connectors, heat shrink, soldering equipment and supplies, etc. I would use 12 gauge and 24 gauge super worm silicon wire and use XT-90 connectors wherever you can. All of it can be purchased at amazon for very low prices.

https://www.amazon.com/T-Trees-Battery-Connector-Yellow-Connectors/dp/B00XC6I17S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495744560&sr=8-1&keywords=xt-90

https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-530-Pcs-Shrink-Sleeving/dp/B01M8OQ2RZ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495744763&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+shrink

https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Temperature-Resistant-Flexible/dp/B01AQU3ST8/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495744693&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=BNTECHGO+12+Gauge+Silicone+Wire&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Colors/dp/B01MRR5C4F/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495744749&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=BNTECHGO+24+Gauge+Silicone+Wire&psc=1

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Looks good @NerdNinja ! I suggest staying away from the nunchuck controllers, there are better options now. There’s the mini-trigger remote that @mmaner noted , and @longhairedboy sells a sweet steez remote if you want something reliable w thumb control. I didn’t see an enclosure listed, so consider that as well. SK3s are a solid choice but if you can find it, a sensored motor will give you that buttery start-from-standstill. I didn’t see tires listed, what 6-inch option will you use?

https://longhairedboy.com/collections/frontpage/products/2-4ghz-steeze-remote-for-electric-skateboards

If you really want to hit 30 MPH with printed pneumatic wheels you should consider dual motors. You’re going to experience higher resistance from the tires and the higher speed will demand more amps than needed w thane.

What is the rocker switch for?

You could save some money using a 2A charger. The slower charge rate is (theoretically) better for the cells.

Odds and ends you might need: various heat shrinks, velcro, foam padding, nickel to weld your battery, solder, soldering iron, flux, xt60 connector, bolts for wheel pulley, locktite

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As far as belts and gears go, I’d get them all in HTD 5mm pitch, it’s pretty much the standard everyone uses here. I’m not sure what kind of drive wheel pulley you plan to use with those hubs, but whichever one you end up using, you’ll have to choose you motor pulley correctly to achieve that speed.

Given that you said you want to go 25-30 mph and that the diameter of the wheels you’re going to use is 6 inches, you’ll want your ratio between drive wheel pulley and motor pulley to be about 4:1. So If you use a 52T pulley on the wheel, you’ll want to use a 13T pulley on the motor, etc.

Another thing to think about with that sk3 motor is that it does not have a keyway cut into the motor shaft, so you’ll have to find a way to secure the motor pulley to the shaft. (I have the same motor and ended up filing the shaft flat on one side and tightening a grub/set screw to it)

Well I just kinda fell off the face of the earth…

I’m going to put this build on hold. Life loves to get in the way.

buy from me, every thing are cheap, I am in china

Sorry, but that’s sketchy af…