First and cheap build

Ok, I’m ready for you guys to bust my balls and give me grief.

Cheap Kryptonics board from Meijer. I wanted a long board and didn’t care to spend a lot on something I would ride only occasionally. It fit my needs. No apologies there. $60

Replaced wheels and bearings. 90mm 78a and ABEC-7 bearings. Gonna clearance the deck some where it rubs in the front. About $30

Turnigy motor mount. Modified mount and the original trucks. Created necessary flats on truck to prevent mount rotation. Radioused sharp corner of flat to reduce chance of stress cracks. Used JB Weld to fill in any gaps and resist rotation (acts as a wedge, nothing more). $10

Bought two $1 organizer trays from Dollar Tree for enclosure.

Cheap DIYEBoard ESC and remote. About $40

36T Abec belt and gears from MBoards. About $40

Mocked up “junk” motor from @kuphjr . Awaiting arrival of Racerstar 5065. Jeez, shipping takes FOREVER! About $60

Last order will be 6s2p battery with BMS and charger, once I find what I want. Figuring $150

Will get an occasional ride here and there. May throw it in the plane to get from ramp to FBO, or find a place to eat after landing if no crew car is available.

image image (upload://6ldRtrPSKF77GLaial5mGIiG3Iw.jpeg) image


6s2p with 30q? Or different cells cuz with 30q you’ll get like 7 miles maybe and the voltage sag will be pretty bad. Your battery should be something you look into spending a little extra on cuz other components are easier to upgrade later.

6s2p li-ion would be silly. That’s LiPo for sure.

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I wonder tho still cuz with lipos normally you just buy cells with more capacity instead of getting a 2p . I guess we’ll find out from him soon enough tho.

Depends on the cells just because they’re Li-ion doens’t mean they aren’t a different size then 18650. Could be 26650 or something even bigger. :grin:

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I’m open for suggestions (that’s why I’m here).

Goals - under 15mph (I can’t afford a loss of income from a bad wipeout, too many obligations). Range - can’t see myself going more than 4-5 miles between charges, but the more the better. Again, occasional rider, not daily commute.

An old hot-rodder, just messing around. I learn by failure and breaking stuff, but the less damage and wasted time the better. Another reason I’m here.

Thanks all!


Do you want to build your own battery pack? or are you looking to buy one? If you build it yourself you’re going to save some money and you will know that the cells in your pack are actually halfway decent. IMHO.

That said I would say use LiFePo4 cells for your first build as they don’t explode if you mess something up and are very tolerant when it comes to high current situations. You can buy a large used pack of em on ebay from BAE systems packs that are it pretty good condition

with all that said I think that there are a ton of people on the forms who could totally build packs for you too.

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If you are not up to long range, LiPo would be a good option. 6s1p with a high capacity is easiest. You don’t even need a BMS. You could get a cheap balance charger such as iMax B6 instead.

This one is a great value for money:

The shape may be a problem though. You’d likely be better off getting two lower capacity 6s LiPos and wire them in parallel, making 6s2p.

Two of these would work well:


for $150 i can build you a 6s4p pack made of 18650’s it will come with a balance plug meant for a balance charger and a charge port. both will have a 3d printed mount that can come through the enclosure.

I can add an integrated Bms if you like, but it will cost slightly more. (about $8 more)

Usa shipping btw

LOL screw the race star motor. The one that you have on there should work much better! There are no problems with it other than the fact that I didn’t want to take the time to remove it and I don’t need it anymore.

I would highly recommend a 10 S upgrade if you ever get the money to do so. 12 S isn’t necessary (unless you like going 40 like me) but 10 S is pretty nice.

Glad I can get you up and rolling more quickly than waiting for shipping from China for your motor!

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For now I’m “stuck” with 6s due to ESC and my own desire to live (like I said I can’t be doing 25mph and take a spill, this old body would just crumble…and I can’t not try 25mph if the button is there…so 12-15mph is gonna hafta do for now).

So how much 6s battery can I get into a 5.5”x5.5”x1.5” space? If I dedicate one enclosure to all battery space, I can go 8x5.5x1.5.

I’ll probably take you up on that, in the next day or so. With onboard BMS. Let’s see how many cells I can stick in my existing enclosure(s).

Im just ready to ride. I might try battery construction if I make a 2nd one. If my son likes mine I may need to build a 2nd. And if I do, I’m gonna buy higher quality stuff.

Ok, sure thing. Just let me know

with those dimensions and assuming 25mm per inch then with a battery dimensions of 18mm diameter with a 65mm length

enclosure size: 137.5mm x 137.5mm x 37mm

should be able to fist 7x2x2 or 28cells in there.

If you want a 6s4p battery that would most definitely fit.

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That ESC can be modded to accept 7s or 10s as well. Under the paper there are a pair of solder connections labled 6 and 7. Yours should have 6 connected and 7 disconnected. Disconnect 6 to have a 10s ESC


Thanks for the input guys.

Ordered 6s4p battery thru @Dirt_Bag

Mounted my $1 organizer bin from dollar tree. Used inserts from Ace Hardware. Trimmed to fit the curvature of deck. Looks OK for cheap…

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looks pretty decent for a budget build!

glad i could help with the battery.

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There seems to be agreement (using the search function) that mounting the electrics to the board and using the enclosure as just a cover is the way to go?


Also, I’m seeing folks use that tool box tray lining rubber/foam stuff as cushion material. But if electronics are not actuall “sitting” inside the enclosure, then what does the cushion do?

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It holds the parts against the deck and prevents them from crashing into the enclosure if you hit a bump, it also adds vibration dampening