First build, deciding between a 6s build or a 10s build

Hi everyone, ive been doing research for acouple years now on and off and Ive gathered a document of parts I want to use. Ill attach two tables showing the two builds, if anyone has suggestions please tell me. I mainly wanted to know the advantage to using 10s, as far as I understand you get more rpm on your motor which you can gear to a faster wheel or more torque…? Is it worth it? Would it be better to make a 8s battery or even use a 6s one from hobby king? Also what is the difference in charging these things I haven’t really found a legitimate solution to charging yet… 6s build: 10s build:

Thanks in advance Clayton

Go with 10s lithium ion. Use a BMS for charging. It’s worth it. Thank me later.

Reasoning: Lithium Ion is safer 10s is more efficient and provides more torque If you try to save money now, you’ll spend more later. That’s how it always works.


fast reply - thanks, would 8s be a good balance between using less battery and being powerful?

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I typically suggest folks go for a simpler lipo setup to start. More power density and simpler. With smart lipo choice it’s also less prone to sag and will give you better performance with better weight.

Moving to li-ion later likely will happen, or if you want plug-it-in-and-forgetaboutit… BMS and li-ion might be a good first choice. BUT it is not universally better. You need to look at voltage sag under load and build a pack that will work for you. If you are on the flats and lightweight - no stress, but if you are a bigger rider - you’ll want to be very selective on li-ion cells and # in parallel to get good performance.

On your selections - i would suggest a 63mm motor vs the 50mm if you want more torque. I’m not clicking all your links but also suggest you stick with “tried and true” options like Caliber II 50 trucks (or clones), and 83mm flywheels (or clones) to start.

For your batteries - i saw the first was 3300mAh 6s. That’s going to be super short range. I’d stick to 5000mAh cells and try to get 30c at a minimum if you can (if you go lipo).

Search for Watt Hour to Km to determine range. Then figure out how to determine Wh of your pack. If that range works for you and you want super small/light setup - cool. But be aware.

I suggest reading some builds, reading the stickies, reading the how-to’s you can find, and reading some more. Almost all of this has been covered about 1000 times, and there’s a lot you can learn by reading now before you buy something that won’t work well.

I did the same thing - i still have some old motors and ESC’s that i never ended up using because they weren’t well suited to esk8. I got impatient and bought more crap that i would’ve if i’d done more research and was patient…



8s is a decent balance, I think you’ll be fine with that. Do keep in mind what @sl33py said though - although I don’t agree with his idea of starting from a simple lipo setup, I do think that there was valuable information about the batteries themselves. Something small like 3300mah is not going to give you much range. For lithium ion, you need a few groups of parallel cells to make sure that there isn’t much sag. If you go 8s, I would recommend an 8s4p Samsung 30Q pack. This will ensure little voltage sag and about 15 miles of range. The other way to go is to buy a lithium ion pack. If building one is a bit tedious for you, @barajabali is the best vendor for batteries that you’ll find on here. And for sure you’ll want to follow sl33py’s advice when it comes to research - the more the better

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I went from a 6s to an 8s setup a few months back and could never go back, lots more torque and top end speed. I’d recommend going with a LiPo BMS setup if you’re trying to save money but 18650’s are great if they fit in the budget.

I was actually going to buy 3 of those 3300mah batteries dont worry :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: thats why the price is high.

Thanks for your reply, I was going to buy 3 of those 3300mah batteries. Im still stuck between buying a hobbyking battery (big sale now) or building my own 18650 pack. I dont have a spot welder and I dont want to risk my safety but also the lipos on hobbyking are kinda expensive…

18650 batteries aren’t cheap either. Especially since it’s your first build and you don’t have a spot welder I would recommend lipo.

In terms of 10s vs 6s: 6s is easier to charge using hobby lipo chargers (like the iMax b6), while 10s gives you more power (and is considered safer on your components). I would recommend the 10s bc that’s what I went with for my first build :slight_smile: Get a 6364 / 6374 motor with the 10s and start building!

Thanks for the reply jammin! I think ill take your advice! I found some LG 18650 batteries online that have really good reviews and theyre 1.75 dollars a piece.

Courtesy of jehugarcia on YouTube. Do you have any battery setups you recommend with batteries? 2 5s 8000 batteries maybe?

Also that link to the 18650 batteries comes with a BMS board, so I can charge straight from the xt60 plug right? I think thats a good thing, also these cells come pre spot welded so I think I could just re arrange the cells to make them fit. What do you guys think?

6S is cheaper. 10S is funner.


8s is perfect…? :laughing:

I loved my 8s build with a 192kv I hit top speed of 23mph

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there’s a reason its so popular! it really is about the same as 6S because its still in the operating range of most 6S ESCs, which are usually 6S to 8S or 4S to 8S or something similar. The difference in cost is more about the battery.

ahhh… makes sense! I am using the DIY boards vesc which is 12s I beleive so I should be good but I think im settled on 8S now. Thanks!

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I bought that same pack but the Samsung one and I installed it on my sons eboard cause his lipos were puffing up and for $34.99, these battery packs work great. Its a 10s2p pack and I charge it with a hover board charger that I bought also on ebay for $7. Here’s link to battery and charger if anyone is interested- (


And i would recommend you do not go Lipo + BMS.

You need to frequently inspect your lipo batteries as you charge. Blind charging even via BMS is a BAD IDEA.

My .02 and you can do what you want, but i strongly suggest you stick to lipo and manually charge, or li-ion and BMS if you want plug and leave it simplicity. You can obviously use BMS with lipo, and i’d just recommend you frequently inspect your cells for any issues (heat, puff, lots of drift or under/over volts).


Do you know anyway to do a li-ion pack without a spot welder? I was going to build one (a welder) with a microwave but my parents don’t like the idea. And soldering I’ve looked into but it looks like an easy way to destroy cells and my Iro is like 40 watts … I’d have to check. Any sort of battery cases or something? Like the double aa battery cases with the spring connections?

Ok so I found a solderless system for the 18650 cells I was looking at: so now im deciding between this system and the samsung cells arranged in 8S5P or 4 of these 2 in series 2 in parrallel for a 8S 10ah Tell me what you guys think! It seems like both systems will need to be charged with a close eye and thats fine with me, thanks @sl33py, Clayton