First Build, Have A Few Questions (Did Research)

So I’m new to this, been learning for the past couple weeks, hope I have a basic understanding of everything, but I might be completely off, so I wanted too make sure. Sorry for making a new post I get that that’s annoying sometimes, it’s just Im a kid without too big a budget… Anyway here’s what I have so far: Battery:2 x ZIPPY Flightmax 5800mAh 5S1P 30C Motor: Carvon v3 would be ideal, but if I can’t find them I’ll go for https://m.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Longboard-Skateboard-90mm-Dual-6364-Hub-Motors-Drive-Parts-Brushless/142536343656?hash=item212fd40068:g:un8AAOSwPoJZ3sG5 Now I understand that’s a terrible idea, but I really don’t have that big a budget, and while I would splurge for the carvons, I can’t find where to buy them, or hummies for that matter. Deck: custom- skate free ride ( I’m going for a boosted board look) Vesc: I don’t know, I’ve checked but if someone could link a good budget one I’d be really grateful Battery hub:https://m.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Battery-and-ESC-case-for-electric-skateboard-longboard/263109909597 I don’t think I’m missing much, shrinks off Amazon, and a remote I’ll find last I’ve been skateboarding a long time, but I don’t need this ridiculous 35 mph a 20-23 mph max would be fine by me, and I would like a safe mode that caps your speed to less as well. If I have any rookie mistakes I apologise in advance, and thanks to whoever takes the time out of their day to help me out.

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Hey mate, it’s lovely to see that you can see the benefit to spending a bit more money to get good parts. The batteries are good although if you would like a slimmer style you could get 5x 2s batteries. You can’t actually buy the carvon motors by themselves so you would need to get them second hand, some people on here sell them. If you can’t get carvons Diy electrics hubs are decent and their Vesc is the best budget Vesc. Lastly if the diy hubs are too expensive you could use a belt and pulley setup which is much cheaper

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Are your batteries in Parallel (5S) or Series (10S). For a starter build, I wouldn’t go for 10S. Tbh 6S is enough for me, but if you weight more than 70kg (155 pounds), then 8S should suffice.

Cheap (and mostly reliable) VESC:

products/torque-esc-vesc-bldc-electronic-speed-controller

Now if i were honest, a dual hub motor system would definetly not be good for your first board. That means you will need two of everything. 2xVESC, 2xMotor (duh). Get a single belt driven motor setup. That is much better.

For a Belt Driven setup, you will need:

  • Motor (63+mm) from DIY, or other company. collections/electric-skateboard-motors/products/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-260kv (6S-8S)
  • Mechanical Kit. collections/electric-skateboard-motor-
  • Trucks and Wheels. You will need caliber trucks. the DIY ones are here: collections/longboard-trucks/products/torqueboards-218mm-trucks Wheels: collections/longboard-wheels/products/83mm-epower-flywheels-clear-blue Choose any color.
  • Deck + 1 VESC + Battery.

It’s not going to be cheap. Electric Skateboards are expensive, and even in DIY. I understand, but it is MUCH better in the long run to get a better quality build, then a bad one to last 2 days.

Remotes are the MOST IMPORTANT part of your setup. If you get one that disconnects, and you’re going even “only” at speeds like 20km/h (12mph), you could suffer serious injury. Trust me, I know. (The remote wasn’t bad, it was just physical malfunctioning. Not manufacturing problem)

So I would recommend this ridiculously expensive remote, but ULTRA reliable remote which fits in your hand PERFECTLY. It’s also small. http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/nano-x-enertion-2-4ghz-controller/

For this “safe mode”, just set it in the VESC settings. I’m not going to get into it now, since you haven’t even purchased it. Also, the remote has a beginner mode, which halves the power. It is great for cruising on flat ground, with the expense of lower-power braking as well, fine for flat ground anyway. This will limit your power, and then when there is a steep hill or place you want to go fast on, flip the mode to FAST, and watch your board fly!

-lasplaner

A much cheaper and even more reliable remote is the mini remote. Found on eBay, banggood and buildkitboards

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Ok first of all thank u so much for all of this. I thought about a belt and pulley but I’m worried the belt can fall off, and the motor is very close to the ground, and can get hit and stuff although I suppose the manufacturers probably thought of that. I weigh around 55- 60 kilos, and I know that 20 mph is really dangerous, I only said only because of the people on this forum who go crazy XD. I will look through the all the things you mentioned because they look amazing, and I just wanted to ask if I should stick with zippy lipos or maybe build my own pack… I have a soldering iron, my dad knows how to use it, I’m just confused as to how you charge it ( the pack), and how it doesn’t overcharge and everything, but overall wouldn’t that be more expensive ?( between the bms and the batteries and everything). Oh and with a belt I should still stick to 1 motor, or should I go 2 and then connect them to the same vesc ( I think that’s possible,i may be wrong) Again thanks!

I did my research, but i still dont know how many batteries to get. If i have as mentioned before, 2 x zippy 5800 mah 5s batteries in parallel ( because i dont know how to connect them as a series) how much range would i most likely get? I know people answered this but i cant find the formula… also, would i be better off connecting 3 x 3s 5800 in series if possible? The whole battery config confuses the hell out of me. And one last thing, with my flexible deck and 83 mm wheels, isn’t the motor really close to the ground? Dangerously so? If someone could give me an ideal battery config, i would be really happy… thanks anyway. And how do you charge the batteries? Oh and is vesc/battery/motor cooling something i should worry about?

Here you can preorder carvons

You dont want 5s board…go for 6s at least :slight_smile: 10s is used in most of our builds :slight_smile: you just connect the batteries in series…Like this

To estimate your range use this calculator (10Wh per mile if you are going half throttle, about 17Wh if you go full speed all the time and accelerate much…efficiency about 90%)

If I were you I would use single belt drive, 6354 will be enough for your 60 kgs, if you want to leave most of commercial esk8 behind, then 6374 is the way to go :slight_smile: (or more expensive dual)

VESC might get hot, but it monitors itself, so it shouldnt be a problem :slight_smile: Batteries wont get hot if you buy good ones of higher discharge rating than your max motor amps :slight_smile:

CHraging…for 10s you want to use BMS…it can be cheaper than hobby style charger if you make few compomises…

With vanguard style deck you can always use bigger wheels like 90 or 97mm :slight_smile: with 83mm it is doable even without risers, if you want more space, you can buy risers and the motor will be quite safe :slight_smile:

Budget VESC…mhmmm if you are from USA, then DIY VESC for sure, certainly the best budget VESC as @pat.speed said…this VESC has also very good reputation, SOLD OUT ATM, didnt heard about them for a long time…if you could spent more, you can go for FOCBOX :slight_smile:

Yep what aigenic has said is spot on. Your motor will not hit the ground and the belt won’t come off because of the flanges on the pulleys. If you do go for a belt drive get a 190kv 6364 motor from HobbyKing, the brand I used is keda because it’s cheaper but the sk3 brand is good too

Yeah I used Keda motor too, they are cheap and work well :slight_smile: SK3 motors are a bit more expensive, but bullet proof and more used :slight_smile:

Is there a universal size for the motors or are they all different sizes Is the keda compareable to the diy motor? If so should i maybe get 2? I know that means 2 of everything but I’m trying to get as close as possible to the boosted board like build. And 2 motors doesn’t affect the batteries right? I plan on going 3 x https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5000mah-6s1p-30c-xt90.html In parallel, and if i go for the motors off hobby king ( the keda 63-64) will i be able to connect the pulley and belt and trucks and everything off the Diy kit? Because I didn’t find that on hobby king. Last thing, since I’m going 6s3p( 10s speed is too much) how will i charge the packs? BMS? I want to make a charging port through the battery enclosure, if someone knows how that’s possible? And a power button I use get off eBay and connect to the vesc i assume, but I’ve seen people talk about spark something, and i was wondering if maybe that’s super important and i just didn’t research it enough… sorry for the amount of questions, Thanks for everything btw.

Well if you want a 6s build and a dual motor, I would say possibly dual Keda 240kv 6354 motors with 15/36 gear ratio on 83/90mm wheels. That will give you about 20mph and it should have plenty of power for someone your size. About the charger you can use a standard hobby charger from hobbyking (IMAX B6 is good, just make sure to get the genuine one) and get a 15v power supply of eBay. If you don’t want to mess around with the charger a bms is the other option though more expensive and you will need a 25.2v charger which are hard to find

I cant seem to find 6354 kedas, or 240 kv ones. Want to know if 2 keda 6364 190 kv would do me justice? I prefer a charger over a BMS , although I’m still interested in how it connects, and how i can make a battery port on the board. And would the dual motor mechanical kit off diy work with these motors?

Only with extended caliber trucks, the classic length calibers are too short to fit dual 6364 motors… You can also consider this kit 2x1400W, 270 kv, I saw some ppl use it, should work ok, even though it is from china…

5055 motors are smaller, more space under the deck

On 6s it would run like a butter :slight_smile: But I do not recommend to run these motors on higher voltage…

If you want more power, go for dual 63xx motors :slight_smile:

So a couple things before I buy, say I were to go with the Chinese ones @aigenic linked, would I be able to upgrade to 5 mm 15t 13 mm pulleys? And change wheels? Because 12t seems somewhat weak according to the calculator. If not then I’ll most likely go double / single ( still undecided ) 6364 kedas, and the extended calibers, although I would still need the pulleys and all, and I prefer to buy the wheels separate ( say I were to go w the diy kit). Wanted to ask about the antispark, and whether or not I should get one, and also how to charge my board ( a battery port ) as I’m still unsure how that’s possible ( the articles I’ve read do not specify how they do it) other than that, everything else is pretty much fine I hope, -6s3p lipos 5000 mAh, -Vanguard loaded (eBay)/custom skate freeride -3d printed enclosures ( plan to go to a 3d printing place 141 USD (apparently eboosteds price) is way over my budget, will also look into the vacuum solution) -single 6364 235 kv/ double 5054 270 kv -caliber 2 trucks either way (extended if need be) -vesc/double vesc, the one mentioned before -imax b6 (hobbyking)+ charger off eBay -mini remote, either eBay or enertion -antispark? Still unsure what that is, would love to know if I need it. -battery indicator? Would like one but unsure as 2 how it works -power button? Same as battery indicator. -orangetan kegels/abec 11 flywheels 83 mm off eBay ( originals tho, not clones) That’s my build as of right now, anything missing by any chance? And of course a helmet and kneepads be cause safety first. And a huge thanks to anyone who’s helped me until now

AntiSPARK…mmmmhm…if you connect your battery to ESC directly, it can spark a little and cause a little dmg to ESC, after soem time your ESC might stop working…there are tow ways to prevent them: ANsti spark switch with power button…costs about 60$, works well, cleaner solution… Anti spark loop key…lasts forever, much cheaper, made of XT90s connectors, not as clean solution…

Both of these work as on/off switch

About the gear ratio…it is certainly changeable, but IDK if the motor can be moved on the motor mount…it would complicate things a little…

IMAX is the best, just make sure that you are not buying a clone :slight_smile:

3D printed enclosures are good, but the are not bullet proof, I have broken one after a week of using…now using glass fiber :slight_smile:

You plan on connecting 3 6S 5000Ah batteries in parralel to get 6S3P?

If you buy the kit I mentioned, the wheel pulleys will fit ABEC flywheels :slight_smile: for oragnatang you would need different pulleys…

Yes, in parallel, and thank u for the antispark knowledge, I would prefer to change the gear ratio, but only if it wouldn’t damage the motor… If u don’t mind me asking, how did u get the fiberglass enclosures? Wondering how much that solution would cost, maybe less then going to the nearest 3d shop? Anywho, now the only thing I’m missing is charging, I’m confused as to what cables Connect to where and how, and if it’s possible to mod it to a charging port… Anyway, none of my friends believe me that I’m going to build it so I can’t wait to prove em wrong XD Thanks @aigenic !!

Np :slight_smile: I made them myself :slight_smile: It quite easy, if you use glassfiber with polyester resin it is cheap, in my case it was cheaper than 3D printing…if know somone with 3D printer who could print for you easily, go for it, other way I would go for fibrglass :slight_smile: if you want better results, you can buy cheap clothes vacuum bag with pump and use vacuum bagging, but normal hand layup is good enough :slight_smile: Just do not expect nice results with your first enclosure…

A lot of ppl here use lunch boxes (or something similar) as enclosure on their first build, its the cheapest option.

Now abourt charging…if you want to use IMAX, then you can make it in these two ways:

  1. Remove the enclosure and charge each battery separatly
  2. Use a 9 pin connector like this one to charge it, when you have all the batteries inside the enclosure you owuld also need balance lead paralel harness, which would be connected on the balance leads and the 9pin connector inside the enclosure…This is more complicated…

Note: When you are balance charging, you have to connect 9 wires to the charger…7 balance wires, plus and minus wire…

If I remeber correctly you gave up on the BMS…

Canging the gear ratio wont dmg your motor :slight_smile:

The new motors saved me a couple hundred bucks, so I don’t mind at all going bms if that’s what I need to charge, because taking the batteries out every time seems like kind of a hassle you know? Thanks for all the amazing advice man!

does diyelectricskateboards’ vesc do foc? seems a lot of people have broken them. 6s is too low a voltage and I bet you have temp shutdown unless you are a mellow rider. any motor will be fine on 12s or 10s but maybe you’d need to limit the rpm with the vesc

there are other ways to charge and balance than a bms. look up “discharge balancer” and a full voltage power supply

sparks from connecting batteries to esc don’t damage the esc just the connectors. xt90s don’t last forever. batteries get hot from battery amps not motor amps. this thread is a bunch of disinformation. if youre being cheap that is not a cheap remote and theres others that are reliable and much cheaper. mini trigger for one