@Luuke The cell ratings are often false. In this case the samsung 30q cells perform better than 25rs because they have a lower internal resistance, less voltage sag. When picking cells is it smart to look at discharge graphs found on google, there is a vape guy that does all the independent testing. You dont want to run electronics at their max, leave some slack. I would recommend running at 10s if you want lessen you chances of future issues. Focbox is an improvement over the 4.12 vesc, they solved some issues and made it more stable and powerful. It is still a Vesc which means it is not bulletproof.
Have a look on alien power systems they might have a sealed 190kv motor. I also would recommend going to 10s just to be safe
30Q seems to be really cool! 20% more capacity for 30% higher costs. http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/samsung-inr18650-30q-vs-inr18650-25r.13802/full
Couldn’t find any other 6374 sealed motor arround 190 or 200KV. So may I change gearset and use 170KV @ 10S.
What range could be possible with 10S3P INR18650-30Q?
I’m pretty sure eskating.eu sells that exact motor from maytech just in 190KV. They also have a 6355 190KV one too.
I’ve only been looking at EU suppliers because that is where I am, so don’t know what you can get in US or AUS.
I desided to change my setup a little.
I will go for 10S3P, but stay with the 170KV. If I need higher speed I can change gearing. For now I will go with 15/36 ratio, thanks to @fliess!
Just installed my 90mm 83A Flywheels with fresh lubed Amphetamine Ceramics Gold bearings. On long term I will try to use my 80mm DTC Concept wheels. I really like those wheels with great urethan component the aluminum core.
This is the Maytech 6374 motor I will use. It is sealed and sensored. I missed to take a photo of the keyway.
@Luuke, good progress! Looking forward to finally ride together
my built is going really slow. Didn’t expact that… Could manage a proper motormount for my Kodiak trucks. So i will go with some caliber II for now And I am still waiting for my focbox.
But hear is my first printed part for my 3P battery pack:
It provides single cell level fusing and supports to route the wires for the BMS. Further i will connect the bus bars with copper mesh wire. I hope the PLA can withstand the heat?! But I didn’t expact more than 50°C here, right?
This is a first test of a anti spark switch:
It’s time for a little update on my build
PCB of the Focbox is protectet via 70 Super. To not decrease the heat transfer rate of the FETs they are covered with tape for that process. I also covered the PCB of my remote and receiver.
This is my single fuse 10S3P battery pack. the core is very flexible. With a lot of heatshrink it isn’t that flexible anymore. But it is unlikely to damage the pack by flexing it. The positve pole has some nickel on it to solder the the fuse on. And it is protected against short circuits to the housing (negative pole)
Cell individual charger made by 10 pcs 5V ACDC Converter and 10 pcs TP4056
Hobbyking parts: motor mount, pulleys, belt The Wheelpully is 20mm wide. So I had to cut it down to 15mm.
I have to modify my Tesseract Cantellated to fit 1/2" riser, 90mm Flywheels and 44° Caliber trucks. Right now I still have wheelsbites. Or is there any other option? Maybe other bushings?
Man i didn’t expect someone to actually build such a frankenstein charger, i love it!
The rest looks great too, i really like the cell level fusing. Do you think one could get away without using nickel bits on the cells and just soldering the wire directly to them?
yeah, it really looks strange. But it is doing it’s job pretty good :)[/quote]
Sure, you can solder direct to the positive pole. But i wanted to stress the cells as less as possible. And doing it with this extra nickle you are adding some more clearance between the positive pole and the edge of the housing, which is negative pole respectively your 3D-print case.
what gauge is your cell fuse? It looks pretty beefy, according to this for example, it might take a pretty high current to actually burn off… the biggest problem being that if something goes wonky with a cell, you still might not have the amps/voltage difference to actually get up to that current and burn it off. Nice setup though, even if fuse wires is a tricky business.
I would do sidewinders because the polar bears are tkp
It is 19 AWG copper. That means 70A fusing current. 20 oder 21 AWG may would be better to use, you are right.
But I think in case of misuse 70A per cell could be easily provided for short terms. Then the fuse wire should blow off.
At the end I went for caliber II wasn’t able to create a well aligned mount for my bear kodiaks… But with the right bushing setup they are not that bad
@Luuke nice stuff! Those ACDC converters have transformers on them? Isolated outputs? Nice!
Transformers? sure! They convert the AC Voltage of 110V - 240V to 5V DC! What do you mean by isolated Outputs? Which connection should be isolated?
Hey thanks for answering. I saw you post in another thread confirming. What I meant was, do those ac dc 5v converters isolate the ground?
Hey next question, do the acdc (oi oi oi!) converters get hot?
Thanks for making the franken charger and posting man. I have parts on the way for a 2 amp version – I think I’ll end up with the TP5000 modules with the heat sink on the back, about $1.65 per piece.
The converters may get a little warm, but definitely not hot. 2A version sounds great! Let me know when you are done with it! And think about choosing a 2A 5V ACDC converter
Yeah here’s my list.
Bought the 3a tp4056 but I think that was a mistake. Bought some tp5000 2a after watching this video.
The buck converters, hard to find super cheap ones that are more than 10w.
great find, i was about to buy those too.