First build | Need help | Budget | Cruiser

Hello everyone!

I made a build last year around this time, august I believe, but decided not to go trough with it because I didn’t have any longboarding experience, basically chickened out :stuck_out_tongue:.

However this year me and a friend decided to get a longboard first to see if we would like it and then take the plunge into an e-skate. I built the board to be eskate upgradable, basically just used caliber II trucks and flywheel clones.

The board will be mainly used to cruise and get around. Does not need to go super fast, I’m not a daredevil, so only some decent torque / acceleration is needed, no crazy top speeds :smiley:

Now for the last weeks I have been going trough the forums and my build of last year again and decided to improve a little bit upon it, in combination with new stuff I’ve learned and found. I have access to a soldering iron, basic tools, 3D printer and also have basic electricity and building (DIY) knowledge.

The entire build should go for around 650 depending on shipping / import costs or switching to more expensive VESC or other components.

10s2p should give me decent range and still be portable enough.

The N.E.S.E modules are convenient for someone who owns a 3d printer but not a spot welder. Enclosure I will design and print myself, all will be printed in PETG.

The BMS would be used for charge / discharge, if the 45A is not enough for this I’ll only do charge wiring.

In case I’m missing anything, or I’m choosing incompatible parts, please let me know!

Parts list:


  • deck: 53 eur link
  • trucks (caliber II): 70 eur link
  • wheels (90mm clones): 28 eur link
  • bearings: 10 eur link


  • vesc (HK): 81 eur link
  • remote (sparkle mod): 25 eur link
  • motor (6274 - 192kv): 86 eur link
  • motor mount kit: 40 eur link
  • bms (45A): 19 eur link *battery (30q): 20 * 3.39 eur link
  • N.E.S.E (10s2p): 45 eur link
  • anti-spark: 18 eur link

Small things:

  • wire red (12 awg - 5m): 8.5 eur link
  • wire black (12 awg - 5m): 8.5 eur link
  • velcro tape: 2 eur link
  • xt-60: 2.5 eur link
  • heat shrink black (6mm - 1m): 1 eur link
  • heat shrink red (6mm - 1m): 1 eur link
  • bullet connectors (10pcs): 3.5 eur link
  • nuts and bolts (locally): 15 eur
  • insulating paper: 2 eur link
  • led button (12V): 2 * 1.5 eur link
  • voltage display: 2 * 3 eur link
  • bluetooth module (hm10): 2 * 1.5 eur link
  • ring terminals (SC6-6): 4 * 1.2 eur link
  • charging plugs: 1.5 eur link
  • charger (42v 3a): 26 eur link
  • blade fuse (40A): 1.5 eur link
1 Like

i see you’re from the netherlands, i’ll send you a PM

1 Like

Looking good for what you are wanting it for. Should make a nice portable cruiser. Youll be addicted after this build im sure.

I personally wouldn’t use 3D printed pulleys, I for sure wouldn’t 3D print the motor pulley.

If you can manage to get hold of a focbox/different vesc it might be worth the extra money. At least spend some time researching all the vesc options. Other than that i have no experience of the HK vesc.

I would use a loop key rather than dealing with a anti-spark that might break.

Also make sure you use discount codes for HK and Nkon orders


1 Like

I’ve 3d printed a pulley system before, it started melting about 10 minutes in, it’s probably better to just spend the couple bucks on one. Also, if I were you, I would go for a 10s3p. The 2 pack might have voltage sag issues. Also with a 3p, you’ll get more range and torque

1 Like

I’m from Belgium actually, but I’ll be happy to join :slight_smile:

What’s the material you printed it in? Because I’ve read people here printing one and use it for 100+ km without an issue? I would print it in petg

I had a printed wheelpulley made out of ABS. Lasted me about 150km’s before t started to wear out too much.

1 Like

That’s perfect, after that I can decide which ratio I like.

1 Like