The wheel base is for added stability at high speed . their is no standard for cave just enough to lock your feet in. No flex preferably as many plys as possible. Routed out with an enclosure . Its cool your doing this for the love of skating.
Thank you I will look into Hummie’s- what diameter wheel and what brand/size trucks would you prefer? I ask as I may want to buy some for prototyping.
Love of skating and the love of making stuff
I’m thinking cast aluminum enclosure for making the deck more rigid. I have made tons of sand casting molds and the like for brass, aluminum etc. Maybe something similar to the butt gear covers on a jacked 4x4. A nice finned, low profile enclosure that has an O ring channel to keep the weather out- Maybe cast it from 356 and heat treat to T6. Super tough, super rigid. But will scare if ground on.
Thoughts? Probably been done…
I’ll def email ya! Working a long shift today so it may be later tonight.
As far as the decks go, having a battery cut out but maintaining a stiffer ride is important to me. I want long range and a good amount of power out of my boards (at least 12s4p) so its a big stack of batteries hanging out down there.
If you are able to make a matching enclosure and a cut out, you’re golden.
I’ve been dying to see some different wedging/dewedging with more exotic concaves vertically.
I was helped by forum (cnczone) folks to a great extent with my cnc routing venture. Happy to pay it back- Hit me up!
How do you feel about the cast aluminum enclosure idea? I can make a pretty casting that will add rigidity to the deck. The door is open for shape and size. I’m thinking cooling fins would look awesome. A logo can be cast in and it can allow for a deeper pocket in the deck since the enclosure is providing strength. Lower over all profile??? Just thinking out load-
I think the biggest thing there is going to be weight.
I think you can get some really cool shapes dialed in by casting, but keeping it light and strong at the same time is key.
Low profile as well, are you going for a street deck or an AT?
That sounds good. Im still new to the scene. Im not sure if its been done but it sounds good.
Mild drop like red ember boards with longer ends to accomadate 6inch tires and allow forward motor mounting. Thick abs enclosure and at least 27inches of rideable deck for us long legged folks. I will be following this for sure
Most popular AT wheel atm are the Bergmeisters because of their low cost – that’s 150mm wheel diameter. Next after that are sixshooters, which are 160mm I believe. (Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.)
Since these are AT wheels people usually ride them with trucks that are wider than standard Calibers. Kahua trucks have a 210mm hanger, 340mm axles, Surfrodz RKP have various sizes, but 200mm hanger with 340mm total axle length seem to be the most popular. Of course, it would be super awesome if you could get these wheels to also work on smaller trucks like Surfrodz TKP 170mm (~310mm axle width), or e-calibers (184mm hanger, 274mm axle). (But the last one is pretty extreme, I don’t know how many people would want a deck so narrow to accommodate that.)
As others have mentioned, people like stiff decks because it makes building easier, and is better for stability at high speeds. Glad to see you taking input from everyone
Thank you, I’ll look those trucks/wheels up and see what I can come up with- I appreciate all the input so far!!
How hard is a compound stiffness board for you? Thick and ridged in the middle for battery pockets and enclosures but thinner at the bend and trucks for shock absorption
Interesting concept- I’ll really have to give that some thought. I just pressed a 10 ply deck with composite. It will be stiff, but will ride that way. My first thought is if you pressed a 10 or 12 ply deck then machined down the ends to be thin you might make a weak point. Basically the flex is concentrated in one area. I do like the concept- are there any in production now??
I’ve never seen one but if you have more composite in the machined section it would still be strong, or taper the wood sections at the end before pressing
This one will be super stiff, I do like he idea of a tapered thickness with more composite in the center section.
Here is a quick run through on where I’m at- I do have a half dozen infrared lamps on order from mainland China. I have my pumps, vacuum chamber etc. for finishing my vacuum forming machine. I want to make matching abs enclosures.
This deck is pretty simple. The next will be more on point as I learn. 37.5" x 10.5" .625 cave at 11", mild progressive with super wide flat floor. mild rear w…mild Cereal Bowl drop 10 Plies Tri-ax under e glass
Will machine battery pocket (any suggestions on dimensions?), truck mount pockets and of course profile. I have a few profile designs but that’s sorta not so important right now.
I started with these poplar blocks I made from rough 8/4. Then one side (back) on each is planed. Then each face is machined in a 3 step process. Rough, Semi rough, final slice.
Final Slice, then a hand sand-
Pop in the press and test-
If you do a pocket for the batteries then try getting it to hold a 10s4p of 21700 with a BMS and Unity or something? That seems to be where people are leaning
I thinks that’s around 170mm x 500mm
Alternative is match it to a Haya or Hummie, double cut-outs are well liked for the space and strength
All good points!
For me the the only thing thats missing these custom decks, like haya is a concave, and Im sure Im not the only one thinking that way
Could you add like a w concave?
Then it’s fun with vacuum bagging-
Thanks for the reply, actually there is a mild w tucked up against the rear drop. Makes for little pockets on both sides of the w. Is this what you were thinking or did you have a different concept? I’m really looking for your input here.
are you still making these? these decks look sick.