@mmaner have you found any significant difference between the regular 4.20 dual and the plus besides the anti spark switch? Also do you find the built in antispark on the plus realiable and do you know if theres a way to add a battery indicator after the switch so it turns on/off with the rest of the board?
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It works at much higher amps, more reliable.
The AS switch seems fine for now, I’ve not run it ling enough to say it’s reliable. I’ve never seen a reliable AS switch so I’m not sure what it would look like 
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There is no way to attach a votlmeter after the switch. I use a voltmeter that has a built in switch.
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How about 12s?
I’m running it at 12s, I’ve run it at 10s on the bench but it’s 12s on the board.
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So you’re saying that the 4.20 plus is reliable (no faults) and runs 12s ?
Thanks for putting the time into this review. Mine has been working kind of ok but every so often the power switch pops out, is this the ‘drop out’ issue people have been having or could this just be due to vibration which is what I’m suspecting?
as long as you stay under 50 battery amps, I have been.
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yeah, you should put a drop of hot glue over the connecter, vibrations will make lots of things come loose. Loctite and Hot Glue FTW.
Have you tested FOC? Main reason I am waiting for Unity is for FOC.
I did test FOC for about 30 miles, but I’m not a big fan of full-on FOC mode. I typically just run hybrid if anything.
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Ok will give that a go thank you!
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I’m looking for anyone with practical knowledge of this. I have an extra FSESC 4.20 that I bought in a group buy. I was going to use it in my “nicer” board but I went 12s so I ended up getting the 6.6 dual for that. Now I have this extra one laying around.
I have a DIYEBOARD 10s5p dual belt (I know everyone hates them but honestly it works great) that I was considering swapping the 4.20 dual in for to replace: http://www.diyeboard.com/v11-dual-belt-motor-sine-wave-foc-esc-speed-controller-p-522.html
My question is: I use the board currently with 150mm wheels and climb tons of hills (live in pittsburgh) it does this pretty well. Would this 4.20 dual have as much performance? I know it will be smoother but will it still deliver as much power? The specs on the cheepo esc list 50A continuous where as everyone is setting these to only ~30.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I have the same motors on one of mine and use a pair of 4.20 singles with them. I have them at 35a and it’s meh, but anything above that is a cut-off fest.
Now to answer your question: the 4.20 setup is less powerful by a depressing margin. The top end is not bad, but the ESC grunt is not there. (I always kick start, so it’s not a deal breaker.) If the braking hadn’t been worse than sugar-free gummy bears, I could have easily lived with the DIYE esc.
Exactly the feedback I was looking for. Thanks man
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I have the non-plus version, dual. Used it in a rebuild. Mine seems to like to shut down and not turn back on until I disconnect and reconnect the power. @BillGordon Is this what you mean by “cutoff fest”? It likes to do this when I full accel followed by full brake/reverse.
My settings currently are 40 -40 40 -6 on each side, with a 10S4P 30Q pack. I’m also using Ackmanic FW, and running my hub motors in BLDC sensored mode. There are no issues in detection or startup or general usage, only when I do extreme control inputs with the board on the bench. I’m not crazy enough to try reproducing these inputs while riding the board, but I have had it cut out and had to unplug/plug back in the loop key to get it working again. I have no idea if I’m doing it right, but I haven’t been able to get any kind of fault or error message while hooked up to the VESC and generating the error. I’d be most appreciative if anyone could walk me thru how to see what my FSESC is complaining about, or even if possibly I just have a crappy one.
Thanks in advance!
Has anyone noticed the esc takes like a little time to warm up? I have it set using your parameters and I noticea bit of a lag in acceleration… Once i get going everything works out but There is a power dip that occurs usually when i first start my ride
Set it to 30/-30/30/-10 and see if it’s any better.
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I’m sure this question has been asked, but did we come to the consensus that two single 4.12 is better or dual 4.20?
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I prefer the dual 4.20 plus, but as long as you stay at 30 battery amps or less the not plus dual is dependable.