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Flipsky Power button toggling when I hit bumps

Recently put together my first esk8 using Flipsky’s Dual FSESC4.20 Plus. Last night I lost power at speed and had to perform a pretty bloody desperate foot break to avoid flying into a busy intersection. Found the antispark ‘pro switch’ in the off position. Brushed it off as a fluke, maybe I hadn’t pushed the button down hard enough, but tonight it happened twice more. Not sure if spring tension in the switch is getting rapidly worse, or due to me riding harder as I get more confident on the board.

Switch is hard mounted(no vibration dampening) to a junction box which is hardmounted to the board, and I’m on traditional urethane wheels(90mm Abec11s) so it’s definitely getting a good amount of vibration on bumpy roads. IMG_20190513_221505

Anyone had any luck with opening up the Flipsky switches and replacing or stretching out the spring? Or installing some kind of Oring to reduce vibrations? Or can I just replace it with some kind of toggle switch? Any advice appreciated

Solder the connector backwards so it’s off when pressed in and on when released

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I broke my leg due to something similar, fix before riding asap

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Got the same issue with flipsky button. Tried to fix it. It’s impossible. If spring bit stronger then stock, button can’t hold in pressed position.

I replaced flipsky button with bigger one.

I just got a flipsky 4.20 plus , it really sounds like the best thing to do with this switch is to simply unplug it and throw it away and use a loop key?

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What button can you use to replace it?

There is a warning inside the packaging that the switch needs to be connected when the ESC is powered on.

IMG_20190514_223209

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What switch did you replace it with?

Does this actually mean you can’t run the vesc without the worthless toggles itself switch connected? Wow what a POS

Edit: or you can’t use the switch without the LED part?

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Actually most antispark switches are like that. It’s because if it’s disconnected you’re leaving the mosfets “floating” somewhere between on and off. It’s how most people blow them. You can replace the switch, but you always need one.

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no way to use the plus with just a loop key?

Wishing I did not buy this plus version now :smile:

Its a really simple fix. A loop key will not work as direct switch replacement

This type of switch has 3 pins that matter. The others are for the led and can be ignored if you choose.

All common antispark switches have a nc/no layout. It means normally closed/normally open. It also includes a common pin. When the button is pressed in, the current is allowed to flow between the normally open and common pins and the normally closed and common is blocked. When it is turned off it is the opposite, current is now allowed through the NC and Com. side

No matter the position, one side is always turned on when the other is off.

A loopkey can still be used, but the button needs to be permanately on and the loopkey is hooked up to the battery leads as normal.

To find a replacement, just search for a “spdt latching switch” anything matching those keywords will work.

To find a similiar style one, try adding " e switch" or “led push button”

They cost about 3-8usd for a good one. They are even on amazon

Edit: if you look at the bottom of the flipsky switch it will tell you what is nc/no/c in small print. Take note and label the wires so you can replace it correctly. The no/nc can be swapped but the common has to be correct. It can be tested with a multimeter to find them as well

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image

All my stitches were soldered to be permanent on, and using loopkeys.

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Show these gents how to do it friend.

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I think it’s safe to say the safest Flipsky switch is the one…

:smile:

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image

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If not that, then it’s - and s

thank you very much

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Sure thing. Glad i could help. The antispark is surprisingly reliable now, the only issue is the slightly cheap switch

Like this, with 16mm mount hole. image

so, temporarily I am going to put a switch such as this

will it be right? :slight_smile: