Same problem here any sulotion on that problem ? the motor is ok testet it on a vesc with no problem.
New firmware just released. It seems this is resolved.
Did someone already had the opportunity to test the new fw? If so which setup.
Have an event on Sunday and not sure if i should update or not 
It was the computer. I used another one.
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Will we be able to configure / calibrate with Bluetooth and Iphone or Mac any time soon? Sucks to take the enclosure off every time
Hello, I was wondering if You ever found a solution to your issue which was described as: “BLE Error and connection drop shortly after connecting” ?
I am having the same issue. I think I need to re-position my Focbox Unity as it is currently pressed against the underside of my Battery Pack. I believe this is messing up the Bluetooth Signal Reception from the Focbox Program on my Cell Phone.
So again, did You ever find a solution to your “BLE Error and connection drop shortly after connecting”?
Thanks in advance for any comments you may be able to provide about this.
Hi, I my battery LCD doesn’t seem to be working when it’s connected to the FOCBOX unity. I have it plugged into the 2-pin JST port and the LCD simply does not power on when I turn the Unity on. Do I need to configure something in the UI?
I am quite sure the LCD works because when connected directly to the battery it turns on.
This is the LCD I have: www.amazon (dot) com/gp/product/B07DMK9PKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey buddy, I think the 2 pin jst thing on the Focbox Unity only supplies 5 volts DC, while the LCD Battery monitor says it functions at 6-63 volts DC.
So it might be that you are 1 volt under the minimum voltage to make the LCD monitor function.
There’s a number of ways to remedy this. One quick test would be to put a 1.5 volt AA battery in line with the LCD meter and connect that to the 2 pin jst in the orientation that results in about 6.5 volts.
But you would probably be better off using a rechargeable 9 volt seperate from the skateboards battery pack and separate from the focbox.
A rechargeable 9 volt will be light weight and compact and will theoretically function down to 6 volts. Also, by not connecting anything else to the jst 2 pin on the Focbox, it is likely you will improve the life of the Focbox simply because you are adding another system to it if you tap in to it for power.
Best of luck. In Summary, try a separate battery providing at least like 9 volts since the LCD is 6 to 63 volt device.
If needed for some signals to work properly in terms of communicating between the Focbox and the LCD’s sensor, you can run a single wire from the negative terminal of the 2 pin jst connector on the Focbox or the negative side of the skateboards battery pack, or any negative wire connected to the Focbox probably.
Then connect that new wire from the negative to the negative terminal of your auxiliary battery pack for the LCD screen. As long as they have shared negative, they should be able to communicate. ( This last part might not be necessary, but if the LCD monitor doesn’t seem to work right the first time you hook it up, you might want to try having a wire between the negative terminal of the Skateboards battery and the negative terminal of the LCD monitors separate, dedicated battery, a 9 volt for example.
And if you really want to have the LCD monitor come on and off with the Focbox, you could get a small 5 volt DC relay from Amazon or eBay and use that to connect and disconnect the LCD monitor to the 9 volt battery.
Thanks so much for the speedy reply!
My goal is to have the battery LCD display the battery voltage of the skateboard and turn on/off with the skateboard. What do you think would be the best way to do this?
Bro, I didn’t look at the Amazon ad very closely until now.
What I said before is probably not exactly right.
If the LCD Monitor only has 2 wires, then they probably are supposed to be connected to the battery pack “+” and the Battery pack “-” directly
See because the LCD Monitor goes from 6 to 63 volts, then it must be directly measuring the battery pack voltage. Similar to how you would connect a multi meter to measure the voltage of the battery pack.
You probably do not need to connect anything to the 2 jst pins unless
If the LCD Monitor only has 2 wires, then you can just connect to the main 2 wires carrying power to and from the battery pack. These are usually big red and big black wire. Furthermore, the black is negative.
I assume that it is probably ok to just leave the LCD Monitor on all the time. But if you want to have it come on and off, the easiest way would be to put a very small toggle switch or any little switch that has an on and am off position in line with the lcd Monitor.
Actually, I just remembered seeing somewhere that the jst 2 pin connector on the Foc box unity may be turned on and off witha button on the hand held remote control for the skateboard. You might want to check that out.
Otherways to get it to come on and off with the Focbox Unity would require a Transistor or a small relay, both that operate on 5 volrt or less and 15o ma or less.
If your still working on figuring this out, can you reply with the number of wires that come from the LCD monitor, and what they are called in the instructions.
That would make it more clear.
Also, you might want to look in the forums by searching for Focbox 2 pin or jst, the fewer words the better.
Someone should have figured out how that connection functions and mentioned it somethwherr in the forums.
In any case, if you can get the jst 2 pin to come on and off with the hand held remote, or if you can verify that it comes on automatically when the Focbox Unity is powered on, then you can install a small relay or Transistor that the jst pin activatesn or deactivates, and then use the switching ability to connect or disconnect 1 of the LCD monitors wires to the plus or minus wire from your battery pack.
When I ran an battery lcd display it was from the 2pin jst on the unity it’s not 5v or anything it’s same voltage as battery and is a great spot to run it from depending on what lcd you have its amp draw may be too much but shouldn’t be likely… it might be a faulty lcd you can test by connecting directly to battery positive and negative also have you checked you wired it up correctly? I don’t use one anymore and use the jst on unity to give the board battery level to my remote
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Whoa, you learn something new every day. I figured the jst 2 pin was a small 5 volt supply. If it actually is the same voltage as the battery pack, maybe use a multimeter to see what the voltage on the 2 pin jst is to begin with! And also, does it turn on and or off when the unity is powered on or off. That would be a good place to start… Sorry for writing a novel there Buddy! There are some good conceprsi n there though lol. Have a nice day
Hey there is another post on here where a guy had it wires back wards because the black wire needed to be connected to + and the Red wire to -. So it mightbe as simple as trying it with the 2ires connected the other way. Just try it connected the other way real quick, for like 1 second. If it turns on goodt,if not, disconnect it again right quick…
I have connected it to the battery directly and it works perfectly fine there.
The LCD only has two wires (black&red) so there are only really two ways to wire it to the jst. I’ve tried both and neither worked 
You said you had the battery voltage/percent sent to your remote? How did you configure it? Perhaps it is similar to how I could configure it to go to the jst
I’ll post a picture of it connected to the unity when I get home
Yep it’s only 2 Wires but if polarity is wrong then it won’t work … my remote a flipsky vx1 has the ability to display the battery voltage on it by connecting the transceiver to a positive power source… I also found the lcd on the board quite in accurate I much prefer the remote and metr app / module.
As mentioned above. The 2 pin Jst is actual voltage. Max load is 150ma and it is fused at 300ma. Mine is hooked up to the 2 pin Jst. I bought the connector with wires that fit the Unity, but these are the opposite on polarity when connected to the Unity. I had to depin it and switch them. The meter is accurate as I compared it to my fluke meter, and the voltage is the same on the Hud menu on the Unity app.
This is my 3rd meter due to vibrations. that makes it go wonky. Mounted it better and so far so good this one is lasting. Good thing these are cheap to buy.
I also have been having an issue with remote calibration. When I go to calibrate it the ppm display is either still or stuttering up and down, regardless of how far I’ve pulled the throttle. I have a pretty generic remote. It’s a copy of a remote that I had that worked well on another board. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDGDTFR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I not sure what the issue is. Based on the light on the receiver the remote and receiver are indeed paired.
Have you been able to get your problem figured out?
Can you share a video of the fluctuation you are getting on PPM Pulse width bar?