I was wonder to create a new and improved products to help the DIY Electric Skateboard community.
If you have any suggestions, please feel free to comment on our post that way we are more aware of what you would prefer to use.
will likely to make it as below:
40″ Aluminum CNC Deck
We are working on new 40″ Aluminum CNC Deck.
Enclosure will be Built-in the deck.
This setup will fit a 10S4P battery pack.
Choose to use either
Belt Drive
Hub Motors
Hub motors I think would be best if you are folding it are those links in the middle gonna lock once unfolded? Be prepared to feel a lot of vibration that metal deck is going to shake your spine it might not be so good for your electronics either, also u will want to add a heatshrink on the outside so it doesn’t become an oven in there
I agree, I also prefer hubs for simple and compact shape.
i think better put it flex, so vibration won’t too much.
about heat sink i will put it down buit in the deck enclosure.
should that work well?
this is sick! I love it! you might want to make the main deck where you stand on wood to save weight - it might add to the aesthetic as well. You could join the wood and the hinge with a nice cnc block of aluminum on those last hinge pieces. Great work
Clayton
for now the weight keeps at 10kgs with two hubs, do you gus think it weight acceptable.
and thks you gus guide me the improvement, it make sense, i will try to make it similar as linky but in a better iron solid look.
Funky design. I realise that you have probably over engineered your prototype on purpose, but I reckon the thickness of the deck (over the trucks) could be half of what it is currently. Is it 10mm thick at the moment?
Why have you gone with a compound hinge in the middle when you could have used a simpler style hinge?
Looks amazing. Have you ridden it at all yet? I ask because the hinge would worry me a bit. In case I’m misunderstanding: is it the case that the hinge allows the board to collapse inwards, but the links cannot go past the point where the board is flat by dint of the shape of the links - i.e. they are compressively held at that zero angle? And, if that is the case are you locking it in that position when you are riding, or could the board still fold up (if say the road spontaneously disappeared)?
I’d just worry about longer potholes or the like - if the front of the board folded down that would in turn change the angle of attack into the rising edge of the hole and you might find exiting holes rather like hitting a brick wall. An analogy: hard suspension cars can force the wheels down into holes very quickly and thus on the exit the force is against the front face of the tyre and the jolt is high. On soft (or slow) suspension cars the wheels are less inclined to be pushed into a hole and tend to ride over more of them. I’d worry that with the weight of the front foot the front of the board my flop into a hole and on the exit of that hole break your ankle - or in a less extreme circumstance: vibrate your electronics to hell as you go over any slightly uneven roads.
But I could be wrong! I used to teach mech eng at a uni specializing in automotive suspension systems so can be a bit obsessive - it might well be that you have configured it to lock flat somehow, or I could just be completely wrong and the floppiness might be a total non-issue!
I’m guessing, just by looking at this design in the photos, there’s no way this deck can be ‘clicked’ or held in it’s folded out flat state? Therefore I think @dannyboy 's worry may be founded. What you don’t want is to hit a big bump or a pothole, and for the board to suddenly ‘jackknife’ vertically on you, flinging you forward.
I like how you’ve reduced the amount of links towards the middle of the bend, but . . . . If you didn’t do that, and kept them at a consistent width, what you could do is build a loop hole/tunnel on to each outside edge of the outside links that would enable you to slide an aluminium rod through to keep the board fully outstretched and in it’s flat state. This would also add strength. They could be spring loaded and only come out yay far so that they don’t come off and get lost etc.
my poor english can’t reply in details, so simply show some of my creation works here.
and will reply you pros if i can if my language you guys can get it well. thank you.
If you hit a normal pothole on a board, your going to eat asphalt anyways. I agree it should not be able to flex inward when riding, but nothing in es8 is ever going to go over potholes. (maybe trampas)
Further to my own ‘non-issue’ comment - I may well be worrying about nothing. In the same sense that bees happily fly about and yet their aerodynamics seem to simple minded humans to be utterly inefficient. I also am absolutely convinced that skateboards cannot work and yet they do - I genuinely cannot conceive of how the bearings hold up so well considering the forces involved in what is a largely undamped system. As for mounting hub motors… the bearings in that case can be bigger, but the stator<->magnet clearance; how the blazes do they not foul when the wheels hit bumps!!! But they do actually bear up very well somehow so my worries about your auto-collapsing board may not be a problem.
If it does work, I insist you go to massive lengths to film yourself, or rather the board, entering a pothole at high speed (both the film speed & your speed) so that I can see how it behaves.
I like darkkevind’s sliding pin idea to lock it - would look amazing too, like a safe in a bank full of sliding bolts.
Am impossibly jealous of your access to the Alu and the CNC by the way. I cannot imagine how much it costs to prototype things like that - worth it if you can afford it, as it really is stunning to look at.
