Four wheel drive electric skateboards

So when I got my motor for my original build i noticed you could attach a shaft onto the back end of the motor and this got me thinking… Could I make a four wheel drive version with only two motors? After many late nights of working on it here it is, a four wheel drive 5500 watt 30 mile range beast that only costs around $800 to build.

UPDATE: 5500 watts is WAY TOO MUCH!!! I cannot stay on the board when accelerating no matter how far forward I lean and breaking is completely out of the question. 3000 watts is the magic number and thus I have toned my board down to said number.


nice works man, you change the centre shaft of the motor? what motor you using?

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Looks mad max ish. Is the turning circle reduced with the wheels being locked together by the motor shaft? How does the handling compare to regular?

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oh ya, when turning, two side or wheel will have different spinning speed, if two wheel on the same shaft, will affect the traction?

this is sick. great build dude

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It’s a 195kn turnagy motor i got off of hobbyking and you dont replace the whole shaft, it’s simply an attachment you just screw on the end of it.

The way the trucks are set up(drop through) it slightly lifts up the two wheels opposite of the turning direction. This makes the turning circle not interfere with the rate of spinning and thus illiminates the need for a differential like you would have on a car.

The turning circle on this board already sucked before i added motor to it (which i wanted because it makes it more stable at high speeds) so it didn’t really do anything. And compared to the one wheel drive version it’s a dream because no matter how you have your wieght distributed it always grips and goes(or stops).

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Hi there @facepalmsareus i was just wondering if you could please put up a list of the components that you used such as motor mounts and types of battery’s used, Had a simmiler idea about this but was unsure of the components used.

I’m curious what batteries you’re using for 30 miles, and at what speed you usually cruise at. Here I am at around 15-20mph getting 3 miles max…

@chewydinosaurs What battery do you use? 3 miles is very short range.

Did you make your own motor pulleys?

2x3s 4000mah lipos. Obviously they’re not huge and the 6s doesn’t help, but if I was to add another 4000 3s battery in series it still wouldn’t just magically create more miles as I’m only adding another 1/3rd of battery lower. In total 8000mah as of right now with a 280kv motor on 83mm wheels

Sure man, i used all the parts listed here. for the batteries i got 8 of them and them wired them up two sets of 4 in series then those two packs i wired up to each of the two motors though a canbus vesc set up. I made the motor mounts myself out of a half inch thick sheet of aluminum. also, belts are trashed at this kind of power so i switched to chains (linked below). 12 TOOTH 1/4 INCH BORE (must do the 8mm more yourself and buy set screws(or use the ones that come with the big pulley). 1/4 PITCH 36 TOOTH 1 INCH BORE. SAVE SET SCREWS FOR 8MM PULLEY. 1/4TH PITCH 1 FOOT OF CHAIN FOR EACH WHEEL

i hope this helps:)

Im not exactly safe when im on this thing, i hit 30+mph consistently and i can hit 35mph if i really push it.

i use 8 of these

kinda, i used cheep ebay ones then switched to chains. i find belts to be horrible at transferring energy(they are very inefficient) plus they were never really able to put down all the torque i was producing with 12s.

A mechanical engineer can check me on this, but as far as I know, the way a truck is designed the geometry of the truck remains constant. It it it’s relative position to the board that changes. Which is different than, let say a car’s drivetrain which changes its geometry and has a fixed position in relation to the car.

The truck will pivot on the kingpin to compensate for the turning angle. The changing geometry should not make the wheels scrub.

i have no idea but it does not throw me off when i turn and it does not make a nasty noise so im happy :joy:

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