Dude I learned about that when I first started making boards a few years ago. Someone on Silverfish told me about it and I ordered one bag of each and after about 20+ boards still haven’t used a full bag.
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Yep. Just wood screws.
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I’ve got a natural wood board where the grip is almost imperceptible. I’m not 100% sure, but I think it’s sand.
You can only really see it close up, or, if you light it up at deck height.
Probably not the gnarliest grip, and maybe best suited to wood if it imparts colour.
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Anybody have any examples on carbon fiber?
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@longhairedboy this thread is fucking brilliant. Are you gonna do this on your sword boards? You already had the tree pattern for cables, how do you plan to complete that?
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What stuff are you guys taking for the glass to stick to the deck? Do you apply one layer of resin, apply the glass, then another layer on top, or how do these things work? Have no experience with this stuff and only did a few test with various griptapes. Also what brands do you prefer and why?
Intresting. Tried it before. 80% were crap some felt amazing. But 90% of my boards have either vicious or seismic griptape. Seismic last an eternity but quite expensive.
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Mmmmmmm sickboards.nl my favorite place for all the good stuff 
If you can’t find something go-to sickboards they have everything you can’t find elsewhere
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I use https://chinooksailing.com/products/re-dek-traction-system (with added silica crystals to preference) to maximize barefoot boardfeel. 
Hope this helps.
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adhesive spray > tread-tex > high strength PU spray
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The sword board was a one time thing, i’m not doing anything like that again i don’t think. That tree pattern is something i have used in all of my builds since day one. that’s where i put the phase wires for the motors, and its a big part of the reason i’m using glass grit in the first place and have been since i started out. In fact the sword build didn’t even have wires in the wire channels because of how the rest of the board was set up, so i illumuinated them with 12v red LED strips instead.
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i simply use spar urethane, the outdoor formulas resistant to sunlight and abuse. Minwax makes a good one in a water based satin or gloss. I use satin most of the time but occasionally gloss.
i do a thick coat of poly with a foam brush in sections, and sprinkle in grit in each section before moving on. It dries kind of fast and you want it to get in there while its good and runny. Then after its mostly cured, i take that foam brush and just stab on another coat making sure it gets all in and around the granules. then a third one to make sure its good.
even with two coats to clock it in you’re still going to have a few grains that refuse to stick. usually i just flick them off and then spot treat anything i misshed with a dab of poly and a sprinkle and another dab.
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I use a chipped brush to brush it on so the foam doesn’t come off with the grit.
This is the satin Minwax water baed poly with crushed Ragu bottle glass. I have some Pyrex too, it’s actually a little clearer, but i thought spaghetti sauce glass would be a better match for a weed board.
That pot leaf lights up, it has inlaid EL wire on the outline of the fronds.
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I may have missed this, but what grain are you going for? Would medium grain supply enough grip without distoring the images below too much?
i’m actually trying out fine grit of the frit. The medium is closer in granule size of 30 grit. what i’m going for is a range of granule sizes between .2 and 1.2 mm in size (as they define “fine” ) which is basically what i ended up with using the two flour sifting screens i got from the grocery store to sift this grit seen on the board above.
if it doesn’t work out i’ll try the medium, but i suspect it will be good.
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Nice to know!
Lot’s of good stuff here 
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I would contact USPS and tell them they broke your item.
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