Me too, we should build a hybrid. FHSS for throttle and braking, AFH for telemetry and auxiliary features.
From what I understand FHSS (frequency hopping spread spectrum) is a more reliable signal but can be a little “dirty” at times while AFH (adaptive frequency hopping) is a cleaner signal but susceptible to total drops when encountering sudden interference.
FHSS is what is generally known as “spread spectrum” but both FHSS and AFH are, technically speaking, spread spectrum radio FHSS just uses more of it at any given time, good and bad.
I did some reading on that too. I think that you’re right about FHSS being the best bet fro any sort of throttle control, braking or otherwise.
Telemtry (speed, rpms, live motor data, whatever) isn’t going to street your face when the signal drops. Which is good because in some situations FHSS actually interferes with AFH over bluetooth. I’m sure something can be done to mitigate those issues, however.
@trbt555 [Lecdec sells this remote][1] as well, although they don’t package a receiver with it and they won’t tell me if it has the ability to bind to a typical RC 2.4GHZ receiver. Via email they claim that they will only sell them to customers who have a “LecDec” which seems to be a rebranded Luoov (which is a rebranded something-else).
[1]: https://www.lecdec.com/shop/parts/remote-control/
i’ll bet the minimum order count is somewhere in the hundreds. luckily i know a few people around here that have these and maybe one of them will let me rebrand a small discounted lot.
I still want to know how the cruise control functions…if it holds on a click it won’t be safe. What happens if you fall and drop the remote after you set the speed?
The kama’s cruise control only works until you release the c button. Do if you drop it your board will coast to a stop.
Press a key on the remote control. Left red LED will Flash for 3 seconds, the Green LED will Flash on the left side, then let go, power on the remote control to complete. After booting the LED lights on the right side. LED colors represent the battery on the right.
Toggle and rocker let PWM1 and PWM2 terminal of PWM signal output speed.
Press rocker down in the shifting process, that is, constant speed. Even the rocker to another location, speed and will not change. Press rocker down again, the lifting speed.
Skateboard downhill hold the b key, can be slow brake function.
If you want to shut down the remote control, when powered on press and hold a button for 3 seconds, after treating the left green LED is lit, release the a key.
one of the things I have heard about the backfire board is that the cruise control feature is speed limited at around 20km/h.
I don’t know if that is a case of the remote control or the board itself, but Id certainly like to know more because if that is the case, limited cruise control certainly isn’t perpetual steez
It holds the registered speed, true ghost rider style. Just don’t drop it while in cruise mode, wouldn’t that be exciting. Maybe it would disengage once you made it out of range.
Yeah…That feature wasn’t thought through very well. That’s a huge red flag for me.
For the steez we need cruise control, but not without a deadman’s switch. Personally I think all remotes for boards should have one. -drop your remote/or let off the DM switch, board zeros out.
do you guys not like the nunchuck (kama)? is there really a benefit to these other options? it seems like the nunchuck is th perfect size and it’s tough to beat at $12. some of these other options are like $100. without some great new feature is it really worth it.
@BigAl the problem w the nunchuck is reliability. Signal dropouts are more frequent. They are also harder to connect; if soldered poorly there are further problems. There are many accounts of issues with the nunchuck throughout the forum here and on ES. It’s possible that you could set one up and have zero problems, but the risk is a crash or loss of control of your ride. See @cmatson’s post at the top of this thread.
[1]: 