Hardware Compression Cell Holders (Published Link on #268)

Yeah, that’s what I was going to buy after talking to him, but on the website it says that it is 7" wide. NESE with the flexible mounts need exactly 7.5" width.

So you are saying that it is actually 7.5" wide?

Oh he does have even wider one. That’s awesome. I’ll contact him again.

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Yeah actually I’m certain the altar wedge measured 7.5”. I checked again just to be sure and yeah its 7.5 for sure. Thats for internal dimensions best to ask him and yeah he’s got larger ones but the wedge keeps it slimmer and low profile to get nice clearance if your build is short on it :smile:

Edit: Sorry @winfly didnt mean to get slightly off topic :sweat_smile:

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or buy some glasfiber and resin to make your own enclosure.

But the print will “set”. Compression set. More so than a foam, such as nese, uses. Why not add some reliable foam

How is the braid held in against the cells, is it just squashed in between the cell and the plastic or is there more to it?

So, this is an upgrade(I think) on the previous design in the way that:

  1. I get to fix the distance between the side pieces. So no more over tightening and cracking of the plastic
  2. The standoffs were kind of hard to grab on to and would spin when I tighten the screws.
  3. It has two mounting holes.

The total volume for printing these is 20,000mm^3 where as NESE is about 90,000mm^3 if I am not mistaken. I would imagine these could be more useful when people want to save a little more on 3D printing are not afraid of soldering. The series connections has to be soldered, ideally with a super flexible wire.

I’ll be putting these10S4P module on a new board, lets see how it fares.

IMG_20180929_171115 IMG_20180929_171130



these are goofy bad pics but instead of having to solder on wires for flex between the groups of four the method in these pics is just a bend of the copper that can go down the length of the cell a couple cm and then back up to the other group and leaves a lot of material to bend. with this method, if it were to last, you’d need no soldering except the start and end of the 12s chain. I don’t know how long until the copper would finally harden and break and never made these to test. couldn’t find any better pics! and you can see theres a “guard” going down the length of the cell were the copper bends image image

and was just going to use nitrile high heat rubber bands for compression which I think is maybe a safer method than even the nese now that I see how little foam is used in those.

for the copper it takes so long to oxidize and especially with the contact to the cell having slight friction I doubt it would have a problem not being plated and you can get bare sheet easily and cut and press it with 3dprints easily.

layers of thin stuff were shown to have less resistance with better conforming contact on the cells than thick non conforming stuff. so easy to work with the thin stuff

plating with tin is easy and theres also some other easier coating method I found that doesn’t add resistance but stops oxidation forget what it was, some dip. I have rolls of copper from years ago look as good as new though


How did you trap the copper tabs inside the plastic? Or is it a 2 piece design?

You and @Winfly have the same idea and I love it. I think @hummie teased about this first and then Winfly made an entire pack?

Well, I am using @agniusm’s tabs with measurements from N.E.S.E design, because they are superb quality and readily available. I don’t want to cut and stamp copper myself without proper tools.

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yea the copper is trapped between the outer and inner parts. the inner also has the guard going down the side.

its so easy to stamp and cut. I put the copper between two prints, press it, and trim the outside of the 3d prints and they work as a cutting template too.

yea winfly got me back into it by actually doing it! but we’re both working on another version in the deck I sell. so solving the mounting of the pack as well. why not. using foam for compression.

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I don’t really see how that idea with the copper could work. The boards we use flex in the other direction (lengthwise) having the copper in that orientation as soon as the board flexes either the copper will be pulled out from some of the modules or it will twist and break.

It would need to be orientated the other way which would increase size a lot and make the connection almost impossible

don’t know who youre talking to but the pics I posted suck and hard to see but between the groups of 4 the copper bends down the length of the cell for maybe almost 2cm and back up. it is easy to bend there

Yeah I saw the pics and it’s great for flex in that direction but our boards bend lengthways not side to side. Sorry I’m really bad at explaning this but basically the copper is in the wrong direction for it to bend up and down like our decks do

image image

I’m not quite sure what thats meant to represent but its the same principle. the cardboard will not bend or flex when it is in the orientation that our batteries are on our decks. If you sit the cardboard up so it is perpendicular to the ground like our nickel/copper strips sit and then try to make it flex/bend the direction that longboard decks do you will see what I mean.

the pic of the cardboard with the bend in it can bend in the other plane. if it were stood up, as typical for the batteries on a board, it can do the bend with the deck. the other pic of cardboard without the bend wont be able to bend in the middle in the same direction

Even with that bend allowing for it to flex, I would expect that the copper would fatigue and snap after a short amount of time

I wonder how long it would take to work harden copper and break it and it would depend on a lot of things but with a long enough strip between the groups of 4 I don’t see any difference between it and multistrand. i’ll be doing it so tell you then.

Cool, I look forward to seeing how it turns out

Maybe if instead of folding the copper tab out to the other p group, it could be folded the other way, onto itself, and then copper mesh could be used to connect the two…? That’s what I’d do at least.

Or we could just use silicone wire… and make life easy