The speed in slow mode seems fine but I think your batteries are to weak to get enough power in high speed mode. Are you sure the batteries are charged? Does your setup has a lot of friction or something that can cause this low speed.
Looks like the rpm might be being limited although that would result in a top speed of 20km/h still. I’m not sure what could be happening but I would suggest changing the gear ratio to gain more speed.
If you swap the 16t motor pulley with a 24t one that will still have good torque and should have a top speed of about 25km/h
Also what batteries are you using?
Ok, do you know where i can find a compatible pulley ? I have one YKS 3s 2700mah 25c and one that i got from my cx20 drone 3s 2700mah 20c. In high mode i have a lot of power, insane acceleration and i can get up any hill but i can’t get high speeds so i don’t think it comes from the batteries
Even fully charged and without weight on it , my board wont go fast
I would say that the motor might be a bit lower kV than stated, and I’m not surprised about the insane torque. If you could take a photo of the pulley and belt for me that would be great, but my guess is that it’s a HTD 3m belt so you should be able to get a new pulley off eBay, although then you may also need a new belt as it might be too short if you can’t adjust the mount
Ok tell me if you want to see something else, i can adjust the motor placement so no need to get a longer one. I used chinese motor pulley kit with 16 teeth on the motor and 48 on the wheels.
Ahhh yes perfect, you can easily upgrade the pulleys to 24t one that will lower your gear ratio and give you a higher top speed. It’s exactly what I did on my single drive with that same kit.
Great but i don’t know which i can buy, when i bought all my parts i also bought 2 20 teeth pulleys but the holes were too small for the belt teeth so the belt wouldn’t go on those pulleys.
Buy HTD3 pulleys, any amount of teeth above 16 will increase speed, but I wouldn’t recommend more than 24t
I happen to have 2 3M 22T pulleys with 8mm bore
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He saves the day once again
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any software config for this esc yet ???
Hey, has anyone measured how many Amps this dual board uses max, under load and also while just cruising?
Want to know if i will be stressing cells too much or not if i use 7s2p and 10A cells, that would then be 20A due to 2p. (Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh - 10A)
No guesses or going by the stuff chinese claim on their listing, interested in measured numbers 
Will be pairing it with 90mm dual hub motors.
Please don’t use those cells… 20A is too low, especially for two motors… Dual motor esc’s continuous electricity is 50A and 120A peak so you could use the vtc5 (2p) or something like that
Also, It performs the best at 10S
i use 10s lipos with 5000mah and 20C so thats 100A max
If you are using 10s (37v nominal) at 50A continuous then this adds up to controller pushing out 1850watts continuous and with 120A peaks - 4440watts peak, even more when fully charged (2100w-5000w). This dual controller is listed to manage 150-350w per motor and some sellers claiming 1000w. (combined probably) That would mean 1000 / 26 = 38A max… and if 350w is actually it’s top then this times two is 700 / 26 = 27A, with 7S, hmm.
When have you seen chinese under promising and over delivering on capabilities? Where did you get your numbers, did you measure that much? Are you using the same controller that the topic is about? @DjamboBuksne (also motors i ordered claim to be 550w, not sure if total or per motor, if per then 1100w max and they probably oversell - https://www.ebay.com/itm/392078679858 )
I just noticed that these cheap eBay escs have “uart” labeled on the pcb with 4 solderable holes.
Anyone try hooking up a HM-10 Bluetooth module to it and see if it’s of any use? 
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Okay guys, I made the test now. This board draws 20 amps. Usually Chinese controllers are limiting power by amps so depending on your battery series configuration it will have different wattage. I have 7s battery so 3.7x7x20a means i’m pushing 500watts through. If you run 10s that would do, i guess, ~750 watts. Here’s a test clip, ran the main powerline using thick copper out of the box to measure.
This means, with my 2p configuration each cell gets max load of ~10 amps. I went with Sanyo UR18650NSX 2500mAh - 20A instead of Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A. Why? because tests are showing that sanyos get way less hot under 15A load. The cycle info is bit confusing but overwall I think I have safer setup that should last longer with a bit less capacity. Oh and those happened to be cheaper too
Hi,
I had one for single belt motor and later i got one for dual. They both were crap. The single motor one came broken and then I fixed it after couple of months. One resistor wasn’t soldered propertly… The other one was okay for about a week. then it started acting strange… While accelerating, when I hit a small bump, It’s like the board looses all of it’s power. It’s alot slower and brakes are like 80% weaker… Then I had to stop the board, restart it and again. Now, after a month or so, It died.
So guys don’t waste your money on these…
Not sure what happened to yours but mine and a few others have had them running fine, although a bit harsh on the brakes
I agree with @pat.speed, If you just got a faulty unit that didnt perform it’s basic functions then take it up with the seller to replace/refund. That is not a good basis to tell everyone not to buy one when you can clearly read about many using it successfully. The break thing is the big annoyance and that is something any buyer should be aware of. If you use brakes after you get up to speed - prepare to fall if you didnt prep for braking specially and/or isnt very skilled.
We need someone to look into the uart thing that @niuva pointed out, is there any way to dump/modify the firmware or if anyone could get their hands on the firmware that we could upload ourselves… edit: … to fix the brake deceleration curve…