Help diagnosing faulty VESC

I checked the design, the capacitors where soldered the right way as well. If I look carefully the caps seems rated at 63V, also OK.

But as you can see here: http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/optimized/3X/6/e/6ee650c0bba376946c0bef22333d959cf8b5c27c_1_690x459.JPG

http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/optimized/3X/6/8/6809f3d0217f528b4e5923a72a7c3b1a224d65b3_1_690x459.JPG

The input terminals where swapped (or did I overlook something?).

First picture of your post: Is the polarity of the capacitor bank alright? I cannot see it like in the second picture

This ain’t rocket science. Red goes to (+) and black goes to (-)

The polarity of the wires from the caps to the VESC is OK. The battery wires to the caps look inverted.

Don’t hook up the caps and connect the lipo straight to the VESC. As long as you don’t run a load, you don’t need the caps. If you don’t get a LED to light up, it’s fried and you’ll have other things to worry about than the caps.

Just hooked it up my power supply. It lit blue - which is quite nice, as that is the most alive this thing has ever been. So, hook up new caps and get this running?

Btw, can I hook it up to the PC to check with BLDC without caps and power (only power from USB)

:slight_smile:

Yes. The caps are there to pevent voltage fluctuations, your power supply should be providing clean voltage.

You can’t power it from USB, you need an external supply. Just use the lipo.

You can use a lipo, but you should use a lab power supply just to be super careful. Not 100% necessary though.

UPDATE:

Still not sure what to do. Anybody knows if this thing will run if I try another pair of caps? Can caps be defective?

Thanks guys

Caps usually bulge when fried. More uncommon but possible is that the caps fried and shorted with no visible evidence. If thats the case removing the caps would also remove the short.