Help with First Build

ESK8 Builds
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1

I put this in builds but I got no responses so I moved it to general, now its been moved back to builds.

This will be my first build; however, i’m not inexperienced with the hobby world of BLDC motors, escs, batteries etc. I’m looking to build a portable budget board for next semester, it doesn’t need to have crazy range or top speed, but I do want a good bit of torque. This is what i’ve got so far…

ELECTRONICS

1x Turnigy SK8 6374-149KV Sensored Brushless Motor

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-sk8-6374-149kv-sensored-brushless-motor-14p.html

I figured the SK3 was tried and tested, so the SK8 couldnt be any worse, and I also wanted to try out a sensored motor. This isn’t too big for this build right?

1x BuildKitBoards Caliber Motor Mount

https://buildkitboards.com/products/motor-mount-1?variant=4993928953886

This looks like a solid mount and has some good reviews on here. Will it fit the 63mm motor? It says it has 44mm bolt spacing, and the motor does too.

1x FOCBOX Motor Controller

Speaks for itself

2x Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 30C Lipo Pack or 6s

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-5s-30c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html

Still deciding here, any battery recommendations would be awesome. Im not sure if I should go with 5s or 6s, or 5000mAh or the 8000 packs. I think two 5000 mAh packs in series would be enough for a while, right? Im concerned about space, so i’m leaning towards the 5S 5000mAh packs. I also know about building my own 18650 pack, but that’s more expensive, and the prepacked batteries seem to have fine specs, if they’re accurate :confused:

1x Benchwheel Remote and Receiver

Recommendations on a better remote/receiver?? I would like it to be compact-ish and look sleek, I dont like the mini remote with the wheel on the side.

1x SuPower Battery 10s 80a BMS

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-37V-42V-10S-80A-Lithium-ion-Li-ion-Li-Po-LiPo-Polymer-Battery-BMS-PCB-System/222353573651?hash=item33c54e4713%3Ag%3Ap5MAAOSwBahVQfLu&_sacat=0&_nkw=10s+li-ion+bms+80a&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0%7C0

This im also not sure about. I would like a BMS with an antispark switch built in. I would like a Bestech, but I dont want to order two from them. Any other quality BMS recommendations would be appreciated.

HARDWARE

1x Landyachtz Dinghy Emboss 28.5"

I would like to go smaller if possible, but that would be pushing the limits of stability. I’m wondering what I will be able to fit under this board? I will be able to 3D print an enclosure(s) for the electronics.

2x Caliber II 50deg 160mm (9")

These seem to be the easiest to find motor mounts for, otherwise i’m open to other options. Also, im wondering if they will be too wide under the Dinghy. I saw another member had built a Dinghy with the 160mm Calibers but I couldn’t find pictures.

4x ABEC 11 Flywheels 83mm

Also wondering if these will look to big and goofy or wheel bite under the Dinghy. If not could I go bigger like the 90mm? And what bearings should I get, although I know this doesn’t matter too much.

Lastly, I cannot for the life of me find somewhere that sells a simple and quality pulley and belt kit. Maybe i’m not looking hard enough or in the right places, but what pulley setup should I go with and where do I get it? I was thinking 15mm belts to reduce chances of slip.

Thanks for taking a look at my build list, any help will be greatly appreciated.

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Save some money for a 18650 30q pack. It will last you long time and you might even sell it and get a better later. Pulleys: @johnny_261 Bigger wheels, better. If you want to save money, go with abec clones Here Just get a regular mini remote or gt2b and @MasterCho 3d mod. Why don’t you get hobbyking esk8 specific sensored motor?

1 Like
3

Im building a 2x5S 8000mah FlightMax’s and i find they’re super bulky. What would be better would be 5 2s 8000mah FlightMax’s as they’re thinner and will give you more ground clearance

4

Yep, so true. I would recommend 5x 2s 5000mah, it will be much slimmer. Although it might be hard to fit on such a small deck. 3x 3s cells might be better

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Update:

Ordered the focbox with nano remote and receiver bundle. Pretty sure ive decided on using a 12s (2 x 6s or maybe 4 x 3s) LiPo pack since they can deliver such high amperage for smaller capacities, so will work better under the smaller deck I think. Looking at Marcmt88’s motor mount, but may go with hobbyking mount since it is so much cheaper. Any other cheaper options while still being solid quality wise? Does a 15t motor pulley and a 36t wheel pulley on 83mm flywheel 78a’s sound good?

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Just go with @JLabs mounts or @torqueboards. Or @dickyho mounts but the new batch

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I dunno…i’ve heard iffy reviews about all of those. Then again if you look hard enough you could probably find that about anything. Anyone know how much an idler pulley helps?? With the single 6374 im worried about belt slippage.

8

That’ll have sag like a bitch compared to 2x5s. I have both setups @ over 5ah and my 5x2s falls short of the 2x5s. 2x5s would be your better option. Imo

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9

IMO, for single 6374 build, HK mount, chain drive, 200 Kv 6374 and 12s is the best way to go. HK mount is 8mm thick, so 8x stiffer than the DickyHo mount which is very important for a single-drive system where all the torque is being run through a single mount. It will require some modification to fit on Caliber 2 trucks, but its easy to do with a $5 metal file and an hour of time. It doesnt support idlers though, and its center distance is low which results in fewer engaged teeth which can result in tooth skip, but chain drives dont skip teeth.

Since you are using 150 Kv motor and 10s though, you could go 22T motor pulley, have 9T engaged and probably have no problems with belt skip. Most people running 16T motor pulleys + idlers only have 8T engaged anyway.

Also, its worth considering RC lipo packs for their extra discharge (and even more importantly, charge) rate. They dont have as many charge cycles, but if you just undercharge them by 0.10V or so, that supposedly doubles their life, and is probably a good practice anyway to prevent potential brake cutouts at the start of the ride.

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fyi, mount metal might be different. so it might not mean that it’s 8x stronger. also he released new batch with new metal.

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Thats fair. I will say that it has been going strong for a few weeks now, whereas the original dickyho mounts started bending on me after a couple rides.

12

Really sorry but that’s just not how it works. Unless you have shit connections, if they both use the same cells they will perform the same.

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Are they the same brands and specs (c rating)?? I wasn’t going to do 5 x 2s anyway because it is ridiculously more expensive than 2 x 5s or even 2 x 6s for some reason, at that point might as well go for 18650s.

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IMO, for single 6374 build, HK mount, chain drive, 200 Kv 6374 and 12s is the best way to go.

For chain drive, I’m assuming I can transfer recommended belt pulley tooth numbers to chain sprocket tooth numbers and vice versa? I haven’t seen many people using chain drive on here, maybe I’m not looking hard enough. Any recommendations for motor/wheel sprocket kit and chain? Yes, I also am pretty much leaning towards 2 x 6s 5000mah with the 149kv motor for torque, I don’t need any ridiculous speed since its a small board and just going to be for cruising around campus between classes. Will the 12s have a noticeable improvement in range over using 10s?

15

Watt*hours = range. 10s 6000 mah same range as 12s 5000 mah.

Remember, power = volt * current, and you’re limited to 60A by the vesc, so 12s is literally 20 percent more powerful. Whether that power manifests itself as speed or torque is a function of what gearing you use.

Chain drive isn’t as common. You’re not going to find a bolt on kit that takes zero work. But a drill, maybe a 3d printer, and a little effort will get you there. They’re simple mechanical parts, really not rocket science, don’t be intimidated and work the problem.

16

Ok so if I can fit 12s, I’m definitely going for that.

I do have a 3D printer and any tool I could probably need (except cnc machine, lathe, etc) so I could probably work something out, I’m just worrying about making a motor sprocket somehow but I’ll see if I can figure something out. Most likely im going to end up going for a belt drive with idlers and see how it does before I dive into building a chain drive

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You can take a look at my post:

I’m not finished yet but it looks good.

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But a sprocket, print or cnc a wheel adapter for it. Naming convention is 25a28 for a 0.25 inch pitch, hub less, 28 tooth sprocket. 35b20 for 0.35 inch, with hub, 20 tooth sprocket. Easy to find online.

There’s also this, but I don’t know if it is iso 06b or ansi #25.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Sprocket-Chain-Wheel-Set-for-DIY-8044-Electric-Longboard-Skateboard-Parts/183433151090?hash=item2ab577c272

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Those sprockets work well, I have 3 lots and have changed the motor sprockets to 10t as it was a crap gear ratio. If you search eBay for 10t 6.35mm sprocket you will get lots of possible pulleys to swap with

20

Picked up an Arbor Pilsner! Thought it would be a little better due to the slightly longer wheelbase so I get some more room to build, and it should be more stable, no? I also love the wood grain on the top. Also ordered some caliber II 9" and some orangatang kegel 80mm blues (77a), I really wanted to get the Abec11 83mm 75a but I couldn’t justify the price, and a few people were saying the softer durometer causes them to chunk pretty easy. The kegels have a wider contact patch so they should have just as much grip.