Brush in liquid electrical tape or rubber mats, problem solved.
I have an aluminum deck I’ve messed with for months and never got it to ride right (no concave). When printing the enclosure I was also getting a Jeep CJ7 tun think lined. I got them to spray the enclosure as well. And expensive solution normally but in this instance it was free.
@Hi5ber Awesome to have you here on the forum! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
It’s not that hard to make a top lid water resistant. Just take a cue from go pro and their water proof design on their cameras. Lid HAS TO BE on top. Makes for easier battery swapping and makes the bottom impervious to water
@Hi5ber I would be happy with hi5ber ION 30 with integrated enclosure and wire channels for dual rear motors. Love the ion 30. Great short commuter board
Totally agree! Lid on top! Also just making an enclosure that only fits 50 cells is to small. I’m going to be running a Carvon 4WD and that needs a minimum of 60 (12s5p), and me personally I plan on making like a 12s7p, not too mention 4 VESC’s will be needed along with everything else.
My point is the enclosure should be big enough so we aren’t limited in such ways. Making a board enclosure that is specifically designed for a certain amount of batteries and VESC greatly limits you and your configuration options.
I know CF blocks the receiver so would it be ok to use fiber glass instead? Or wood with a layer of fiber glass or aluminum?
Another option I was thinking is do the lid CF but have a little cut out that we could attach the receiver to and just cover it up with a piece of wood or something.
Or just don’t ride in wet conditions since you really shouldn’t anyway. Or just make sure to wipe down the lip of the lid when you open it, since it most likely won’t be opened out while your riding. Additionally you could line the edges of the enclosure with an absorbent sponge or something similar, making them removable so you can dry them when needed.
Guys this is getting off track and likely to discourage @Hi5ber from soliciting further advice from the community.
Let’s calm down a bit
what might be more productive is if we make suggestions of features and then they are added to a poll we can all vote on?
I agree. At the end of the day, it’s up to him and the communities needs as to what he builds.
I’m simply pointing out a top hatch that is waterproof can be designed, and is not impossible.
I like this idea
Ok your argument is absurd. Comparing a car which is the main transport for most people to an Esk8 which granted, some people use for their main transport, but I think for most of us this is for fun /hobby, or getting somewhere from a bus that’s a mile or so too complete the way home. As for your comments about driving a car in the snow I’m just going to ignore as it’s clearly meant to start an argument.
I guess my point is, the board shouldn’t be made to the specifications of a rather small portion of the population, but to the needs of the majority.
I’m with you. IMO, what the majority of eskate DIYs will want:
- integrated enclosure of some sort, hold 50 cells with room for 2 ESCs, bms, receiver, etc. This also gives us big wheelbase for stability at speed.
- wire channels of some sort
- enclosure opens up without unscrewing 30 screws. splash resistant.
- room between enclosure and rear truck for inside mounted motors
- mounting panel for charge port, switch, vesc usb passthrough, XT90S loop key, etc.
- we tend to run big wheels. 90mm, 97mm, 107mm. So some kind of wheel clearance. And most of the motor mounts are designed around caliber fifty trucks.
- maaaybe some mount points for lights, front and back. Like flat spots on bottom near trucks
- badass looks (from what I’ve seen you can’t help it)
- cheap as hell (this one’s a joke)
And thanks @Hi5ber for popping in! Exciting.
I never said anything to discourage people from riding in the least. I’m just cautioning about riding in the rain as that is usually a good way to mess up your bearings, and a lot of motors aren’t waterproof so I’m also trying to help in that regard, but if you want to risk it, don’t let me stop you, but regardless of where the lid is, if it’s raining and your riding, you have a much higher chance of ruining your motors and bearings long before any water could get inside to do its damage.
Dear @Hi5ber, thank you for reaching to us!
I’d suggest the following ideas :
- We need a kick tail for the city, it is a pain to ride without it
- We need a W concave for easy foot placement because it will go fast
- It must sit as low as possible when mounted on trucks like Caliber 2 (most used model) to provide the most possible “analog” feel, people can always choose to put risers later
- The lid of the enclosure should actually be on the bottom because instead of making multiple deepness in the deck, you can offer various lid sizes, flat or bulky, to accommodate for any battery packs sizes ; if you put the lid on top you won’t be able to cause it would mess up with the whole deck.
Rest of the proposed ideas are pretty good too.
Since there seems to be a disagreement on kick tail, maybe propose both offerings?
Wish you a good development.
Well a good set is like $50, but you totally ignored the ruined motors I mentored…?
and some times it is possible to have it all my rayne fortune v3 has a usable kick-tail depending on the rear truck position.
there are kick tails and there are kick tails… it doesn’t need to be like a 90’s pool deck?
Here’s a lid that definitely won’t leak and it’s on the top.
I would just make it so the screws are a quick release type. PROBLEM SOLVED!
This a flat kick tail is beautiful like the loaded cantellated tesseract… as water resistant as possible…50cell holding ability…2 vests…clearance for wheels of like 97-120mm(the futures coming and 120mm wheels are too)…love to see a deck similar to the rayne v3
That whole design has very little application to a carbon fiber deck
I’m just using it as an example that it’s possible to have a water proof lid.