Oh yeah those wires are way too long! You might loose a watt or two 
Good luck with your builds everyone!
@VladPomogaev: something seem to have happened with mine. When I turned it on today and then turned it off, the LED stays lit, though with a weaker light than when it’s on.
I haven’t done any changes from yesterday when everything worked. Any ideas?
On:
Off:
@rwxr Hmm that is very odd indeed… Are you sure that nothing has changed at all? What happens if you disconnect the VESCs? Please check the connections to the toggle button as well.
Usually when you have this connected to the VESC the LED will stay dimly lit for a bit after you turn it off, and it can take like 10 seconds for it to fully turn off. (These are just the capacitors discharging)
PS. You are running almost the exact same setup I am
Cheers,
Vlad
@VladPomogaev: Yes, nothing has changed since yesterday. I just started it from where I left of yesterday when it was working. Tried disconnecting the VESC aswell, still the same and also the connections on the button looks fine.
ON
OFF
Hello again everone! Thank you for purchasing my switches. The profits made off the first batch allowed me to improve the design and purchase another batch for sale. The same switching concept applies, but with some changes:
- Wider traces which allow for far more current 150amps +
- The PCB design now equally uses the two sides to carry current
- New high-temperature copper wiring is slightly smaller and less flexible, but conducts electricity better than the old aluminum/steel stranded wiring. (Source)
- And to reduce the size by 33%, the four high-power MOSFETS were stacked on both sides of the PCB.
As you can see, most of the upgrades were done to improve the rating of the switch, and to make it more suitable for really high-power applications (mountain-boards and 4WD).
I’m just waiting for more LED power buttons right now, but as soon as I get them I’ll put the new batch on my website!
Cheers,
Vlad
4 Likes
The last one I got from you is still working great. I could use another for the aluminum board with skikes I’m building. Let me know when they are ready and I’ll buy one. Good work.
1 Like
I’m in for another one when available!
1 Like
Please let us know when the next batch is complete! Could I buy one without the power button if I an extra one.
Can’t wait to get mine from the previous batch. Seems like finally someone made a reliable spark switch.
I’m not sure if this is a dumb question or not but is there any current draw when off? If so how many milli amps? Like if you don’t have a BMS would this eventually fully discharge your battery?
Not sure what you are talking about. Never heard of a properly done Vedder switch to fail…
Just an example:
Which means you have also read this no?
I Don’t know dude…I was under the impression recently that I see more and more people have their switches failing. I might be wrong then.
Mine failed when i connected the Switch to the battery. And it was switched off.
Where did you buy your switch ?
From Esk8 and it was well made. Soldering was nice. And they replaced it with no questions asked.
We had a talk in the forum previously and we came to the idea that when you connect the switch to the battery that a small current spike goes into the mosfets. Same like with Capacitors. And this might kills them. But we also could be terribly wrong with that. But since that i first connect the Vedder-Switch to the Battery via cables with crocodile clamps and a resistor in between so that the Mosfets can charge up. And then i plug in the cable. And i also try avoid it to disconnect the switch from the battery.
But it also could be that it doesn’t make any sense. But i am a noob when it comes to electronics so i make this additional step and hope that the switch never fails again.
Yes of course!
Nope, no current draw. (Well there is, but it’s way smaller than the self-discharge rate of your lipo’s). If you turn the switch on, then the switch will consume current for the LED and some for keeping the MOSFETS on.
The most common thing to fail here is probably either the actual button, or a pre-charge circuit (if there is one). As to the reason why they actually fail, I’m not quite sure. I’ve only had one problem with my switch so far, it resolved itself, and I wasn’t there to experience it or troubleshoot.
1+ For next batch. Also where can I find that waterproof charge port?