Hill Muncher (first build) | Dual 6374 190Kv | 12s5p | FocBox Unity

Hello everyone! After about 600 miles on a boosted stealth riding with Baesk8, the amount of issues and underperformance I was having touched a nerve. So I sold my stealth and was really interested in building my own board. I got a couple of tips and recommendations from fellow riders about the big pieces, but I’m unsure about the small in-between bits and what I’ll need.

Board Specs:

  • Landyachtz Evo Falcon 40 2019
  • Abec 107 Superflys
  • Bronson G3 bearings
  • Dual | Sensored 6374 190kv (https://psychotiller.com/collections/motors/products/sensored-6374-190kv)
  • 12s4p (from psychotiller as well) edit: now 12s5p
  • Evo Enclosure (from psychotiller)
  • FocBox Unity
  • Torqueboard 218mm Trucks edit: now Surfrodz RKP 200mm with 80mm axle, yellow nipple bushings
  • Torqueboard motor mounts edit: now psychotiller TKP Mount Set
  • Torqueboard 40T ABEC pulley 15mm combo kit (16t motor pulley)
  • 1/4 inch shock pads
  • 1/2 inch riser (solid in front | cable routing in back) edit: combination of risers and shock pads to be even
  • Firefly DIY remote edit: now Hoyt Puck
  • 2.4 GHz remote (to make sure the board works and there aren’t issues with the firefly)
  • hardware for mounting the trucks and attaching the deck
  • Loctite blue and liquid tape
  • Insulating foam tape

I’m unsure if there is a recommended additional part list on the forum for bullet connectors, anti spark switches, and other stuff like that. Looking at the Unity it seems like most things just plug directly into it. So I’m unsure if I need anything else. I plan on routing the wires through the riser and I can’t find the length of the motor cables so I might need an extender, but again I’m unsure. If anyone has a similar experience to share that would be helpful. I’m mounting the motors on the underside of the Evo as I prefer the look and the room is available.

My main questions are if there are any pieces I’m missing? Or other small pieces to put everything together?


An antispark never hurt anyone, you will need some adapters since the motors have 5.5mm male bullets and the Unity has 3.5mm female bullets


Keep in mind some of these parts are for battery building


What were your issues with the boosted stealth? I haven’t had one, but neither have I been following boosted recently :thinking:

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Oh damn I didn’t realize they were different sizes lol


Thanks, that’s exactly what I’m looking for!


I pre-ordered a stealth right at the end of April last year. I got in July so it was part of a pretty early batch. Idk if that was part of it cause they were rushing but I had to replace everything on it. Motors had to be replaced 3 times each because of clicking noises that made it sound like weed wacker. The ESC had to be replaced because it kept shutting down one of the motors at random. And I had to replace the original battery because the venting valve on the underside came off. I wasn’t charged for it as most of the issues happened under warranty. I sold it as I didn’t want to keep changing motors every 125-150 miles.

Those were the technical issues but I also wanted something faster that could go further too. Having to carry and swap two batteries is a hastle.

Tell this to the people on which an antispark failed. If you lucky the fets just burn in open and you can’t switch of your board. Worst case you burn a hole into your enclosure or you cut out at max speed… not saying that will happen with every anti spark switch, but the risk is there.

I would be very careful in which anti spark to choose. If to recommend one than go with one with a pre charge circut.



I was just messaging with a friend and he mentioned that I wouldn’t need and antispark with a Unity. Do the pros out way the cons if you don’t need one?

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You don’t need a separate anti spark switch if you have the unity. Unity comes with a build in anti spark. I heard some issues with some, but that was more mechanical not that something burn or broke with it.

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Good man you’ve done your homework and made good choices based on that image

It’s the little things in @Skunk’s link that can gotcha, welcome

Caveat on the TB mounts

And Surf Rodz are the sk8 truck of choice de jour


Pychotiller is selling these now and I believe they can use Surf Rodz TKP hex mounts (different to RKP Surf Rodz) https://psychotiller.com/collections/trucks/products/liquid-240mm-tkp-split-angle-truck-set

This is a Surf Rodz TKP truck


Mount options of SR TKP (hex) and the Liquid truck would be this and maybe others

People are going crazy over Boas and TB 110 thane wheels



Still waiting for reviews on those Liquid TKP trucks + wish they came in black :frowning:

Kegel core is definitely the future, I don’t know why anyone would choose Abec 107s over the TB110. (Except for the color, maybe)


I’ve already got the torqueboard mounts and trucks, I’ll see if I have any issues with them, and if I do I’ll probably pick up some surfrodz and appropriate mounts for them.

What’s the hype with the Boas and the BFW?

Theres nothing wrong with torqueboards trucks if you set them up correctly. Especially on something that will pull your socks off. Research bushings and anything from @Alphamail Mounts are tricky to get right depending on the version and direction. Reverse long mounts with heavy motors will be more prone to loosening but with a cross member they stay solid. Search up the relevant posts, theres a few but @Deckoz is your man there . Don’t mess with angles on that deck though. It seriously works best with 50 degree trucks as is. Nice choices, shows some good research. Get ready for some serious attention on your thread. Nice work!

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Agree fully with the pivot bushing choice but messing with the angles is something I will never agree on based on my own experience. Hanger plugs yes. Plastic tubing in mine. Got that on here. Tried all kinds of different wedge/dewedge though and for me it rides best as is. Factory advice given to the bearded angel and passed on like a gift from above. He was right. Solid as a rock now with the trucks as loose as I can get them. Kugs is a pussy.

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Yeah but there’s other stuff in there and I’m lazy

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Yeah I’m a bit like that lately. My like ratio shows it. Often find myself halfway through a long descriptive explanation and then go bollocks. One thing I found though with the walking aspect of 218’s and tb mounts was the addition of a cross member. Unifies the rear end like a pride march.

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So I’m seeing that post @scepterr made and I think I’ll go with his solution. I weigh about the same and I’m expecting this board to go over 30mph. I’ve already got a pair of caliber 2’s that I can swap the baseplate for, then I’ll pick up the bushing and pivot cup combination. I may pick up a pair of hard and medium bushings and see what I prefer as I really like carving.

For the motor mounts I’m pretty sure these are the shorter ones and I will be mounting them so they will stay underneath the board (is that normal mounting or is that considered reverse?). I have the clearane with the risers that I have.

Also yeah I am aware of the angle change that the Evo provides so I was planning on sticking with 50 degree angle trucks anyway. I do like carving quite a bit and a small turning circle is better to have as an option in my opinion.

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The problem with an evo is always going to be carve vrs speed stability. Its designed for stupid speeds but not hard carves. Its just not that type of deck. No drop down deck is really.
The V5 forward mount is the best of the bunch as regards to ease of set up and solidity so good choice. This is reverse


Motors hanging out the back evolve style.

Thats the only similarity this thing has with an evolve.

12s4p is a very powerful build and as such will take some getting used to. It will be night and day compared to a stealth. Night and day. Don’t be put off because the build is hairy. Give it time before you change anything. Ride it first and adjust it to your particular riding style. Information is all here and if you need specific help then feel free to pm me. Love another evo out here.

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4p :joy::joy:

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In life the older you get the longer you last. In esk8 the older you get the less range you need.

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