How does this setup look?

Hey y’all,

If you see any issues please let me know, I have most of the parts aside from the battery and am starting to solder stuff together. Figured I would check first to make sure I don’t mess anything up too badly lol. (I should add that the battery is going to have the BMS built in, so no need to worry about that)

This is the solder I am using:

This is the 12 gauge wire I am using:

An this is the tinned flat copper braid I am using to connect the battery along the deck:

And I am planning on insulating the copper wire with this tape.

Let me know if im missing anything or if there is anything I should beware of, im excited to get this build on the road!

The remote also has two wires you need to add to the vesc positive and negative for battery percentage reading.

Looks fine otherwise.

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Maybe add a 60/80A fuse on the positive battery end just to make sure it cant go wrong there.

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Would a fuse like this work? And what do you mean by “wrong” lol, im guessing to prevent excessive current from flowing through, in which case should I aim for a 90A fuse in case I decide to use all terrain tires and want to pull more power?

What you need is either an anti-spark switch (I know of none on the market at the moment that actually lasts) or a loop-key to turn your board on or off. (Or you can live without one if your battery’s BMS has an e-switch, those seem to work quite well.)

WIthout an anti-spark current spikes could kill your fuse, so most people don’t use a fuse between their battery and ESC. Fuse on the chargeport, however, is a good idea.

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The VESC has an antispark switch built in.

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Id just go for those car replaceable fuse boxes and use that, and go with a fuse that matches the max output of your batterypack.

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Does it? I don’t see it mentioned anywhere on the product page

Its this one and mine has the pro switch which is anti-spark.

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