How much current can nickel strip handle?

99% nickel strip bought from nkon so its legit, few weeks ago i finished a pack for my board and now suddenly while skiing I realised that I forgot to put another layer on the terminals and now its already connected with a bms so its a bit trickier

cells are 30Q in a 4P configuration nickel strip is 6mm wide and .15 thick

Im really hoping that I will not have to use my shitty improvised spot welder again

Your battery can put out 80A max. There is no way that little nickel can handle that much current. 10mm 0.15 nickel becomes hot at 15A, so I’ll guess your 6mm 0.15 nickel can handle about 10A max continious… Which means; you really need more nickel to be safe

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You can add more nickel strips Add solder on nickel strips Add copper wire

Just make sure to insulate the positive terminals if you’re soldering on them

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Ughhhh Well what has to be done has to be done

What should i do put 8 fkn layers of it or 2 will be enaugh

If I were you I would have got some 10 or 12mm wide nickel strip. Then I think 2 or 3 layers should be good enought. But If I remember right, I think that it is the serial connections Who is critical, Since more current will pass there, compared to the parallelle connections. I am not sure tought, so double check with a more experienced one like @barajabali or @darkkevind

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don’t just layer nickel on top of nickel. do some tests.

i’ve noticed a nickel to steel (cell) weld is far stronger than a nickel to nickel weld. i’ve had to redo a whole set of welds because a 2nd layer of nickel, after time, just started falling off on its own. i was using a sunkko 709a.

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I will weld just on to it and then press everything with that ultra duct tape wich is used for paraschutes as i have it around

I’m not sure what type of duct tape you use but normally duct tape performs extremely poorly when it gets warm.

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Im assuimg that batteries wont go over 40 degrees and thats not hot for me, didnt have much experience with duct tape in those conditions

I second this… For some reason the nickel doesn’t weld to itself very well so I use heavier nickel in the first place. My series welds (mostly because I need a flexible pack for Evolve boards) are all done with 10awg silicone wire which can easily handle the current.

I advise using the widest nickel strip you can for your series welds, 15/18mm 0.2mm strips should be sufficient for esk8.

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Or u could solder 1\4 the amount of the nickel n use copper sheet n get same conductance

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I’m convinced literally everyone is mega overdoing it. I hardly have anything real to back this up I just have never heard of anyone ever burning up strips due to not being able to handle current.

One strip of .15 thick for me. And it’s a 13S4P pack that’ll pull prob 45-50a at bursts lol

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This is pretty much what I follow

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=68005

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Not gunna melt or burn up but probably will make the cells last a shorter time from the heat. The link above is a classic.

Easy solution just solder on some 10 gauge multi strand wire on top of the nickel the rc stuff problem solved.

And the cells overheated.

Don’t do that, if spot welding is used it’s to avoid overheat.

Yea that can be a case sometimes like when choosing materials, people use aircraft grade aluminium for a motor mount lol

Proably will do that if the nickel wont weld to itself, but I think I ran out of solder