How-To: Fused XT90-S Anti-Spark Loop Key

I believe so it was in the basement. Amps do the damage, but as said before it only went through my hands. but your whole body feels hot AF.

@wmj259 That’s a whole different story. Not only are you talking about 110V but also alternating current.

110V is more dangerous than 42V. And current is not the only thing that matters. Human’s skin resistance is not a constant, it decreases as the voltage rises as shown in the paper above, and can also vary from person to person based on health and other factors according to what I’ve read. As the skin burns, it’s resistance drops too. At which point a current of only a few milliohms can kill you over several seconds.

Truth is, 42V on dry skin with a small contact area, like the ones we deal with are not dangerous at all. I’ve assembled tens of battery packs by hand now, anywhere from 4S1P to 10S10P and never had an issue getting shocked and I constantly handle both terminals of the packs. The only time I’ve ever felt slight electricity flowing though me is when my forearm or hand is resting across several cells in series which feels almost identically as getting poked by untrimmed nickel tabs. Half the time I’m unsure which happened.

110VAC is inherently more dangerous as the voltage is higher but the fact that it’s alternating means your muscles wont lock up when you come into contact as you see 0amps 120 times in a second. House electricity has a frequency of 60hertz. The dangerous part is holding that for several seconds. The pulses can throw your heart off beat as it tries to match the electricity frequency and when it cannot keep up it’ll lock up, and cause cardiac arrest from what I understand.

TL;DR. Comparing 42Vdc and 110Vac is like comparing apples to oranges

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BTW tasers dont kill (usually) and they deliver "voltage peaks at 50,000 volts and when it reaches the body it is substantially less. The volts are responsible for delivering the amps. Taser runs off 0.0021 amps at average performance. "(from the internet)

‘‘and available for 30A, 40A, 50A, 60A, 80A, 100A’’ why did you pick 50A? Is it any bad to go with the highest? I dont want to use more than 50A too, but wouldnt it be still better to go with a higher amp?

taking it one step further

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Does the fuse need to be in an air gap to work some where near its fuse rating.
Does any one fancy designing a 3d print file for a cover for this which includes a handle or loop to make it easy to pull out.

@mmaner did if it´s what you looking for

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brilliant conclusion to the brewing squabble above.

Makes me want to put a treasure troll or thunder cats head on my loop key.

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Nice one Andy87 suberb just what I’m after. Does any one in the uk fancy knocking up a small batch of thease and selling me a couple for a few quid each. The last time I tried a 3d print service for some XT90 panel mounts they came back to small and wouldn’t fit.

Oh noes what has I done?

IMG_20190102_225156

@Hummie you still got that grinder?

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im making one myself now but without a fuse. rather every micron of power.

used the grinder yesterday. if you have one you find so many things to grind.

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I can’t work on a Jeep without a side grinder, so many stuffs to remove :grinning:

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