Thanks! And what type of cloth do you suggest to pick?
You can buy what you need locally, I use epoxy resin and fibreglass cloth of 220gr. For the enclosure I did I used 5 layers of that fiber and 100ml resin and 50ml hardener is 2:1. I put a link for pictures If you have doubts, ask
Thank you for the answer! I have one more question: I have glued mold on my deck. Do I need to cover it with a tape and then with wax it in order to remove enclosure easily?
Yes, tape it works but if you use tape and baseline, it will be a lot easier. Also for the joint in between the mold and the deck I used clay, but playdo also works fine. Send pictures when it’s finished!!!
I have just found this tape: https://www.mrboat.nl/silicon-rubber-release-agents/pe-tape/ Transparant tape which doesn’t stick to epoxy. What do you think?
Use polyester resin for fiberglass. Epoxy should be used with carbon fibre, is more fibre and not needed for fiberglass.
That tape is just packing tape
So polyester resin or epoxy resin?
U can use either but epoxy is stronger and doesn’t smell like death coming. Polyester resin is cheaper but epoxy is worth it for the lack of fumes alone
Thank you. Everything is getting clearer for me. I found some fiberglass cloths on my local store. http://composite24.lt/en/products/fabrics.html Which is the best? What does twill and roving means?
wax or mold release spray. you’ll be better off if you make your mold smoother, maybe with gloss coating, and then add wax buffing, and then maybe some mold release. since it’s a square mold it will be hard to remove. maybe sand it down the sides so you can get it out again.
Look at @longhairedboy build, I think he’s using water proof tape and wax.
When I was making my own boxes i was using a male form and hand laying the the fabric on and brushing the resin into it. I used a combination of wax and pva mold release in a spray bottle.
When it cured i just sanded the shit out of the exterior until it was smooth and painted it.
The people who make my boxes now use a female mold they made from my original male form and that’s really the route you want to go unless you’re only making one. Doing it that way and using a colored gel coat of your liking is where its at. So many people have ordered black out aesthetics from me that i’m probably going to start getting my boxes made in matte black instead of the light gray i get now.
What kind of wax where you using. I’m still trying to figure out the right formula, for non sticky mold.
you could probably use any wax but the kind that’s hard and you polish it in works well.
I’ve done this a few times - similarly to LHB - with a male mold, fabric, and resin (agree on epoxy vs poly). I stunk up my garage for several days trying poly resin - and at the end it pulled off w/ minimal force (a flat reinforcing layer on a deck). I have switched to epoxy 100% since then w/o issues.
If this is for a single enclosure, take your time and go slow (as slow as your hardener will allow). I found packing tape and plastic wrap (cling wrap… saran wrap, etc.), work great to help it release. I’ve made a couple enclosures now and only used the tape on the male mold part. It can be tough sometimes, but it will release. The more work and release agent, etc - i’m sure will make it easier.
You need a vacuum!!
Without that, process will make you mad as hell, because corners will not stick. I recommend my style- I call it “GHETTO VACUUMING”! So items you need is:
Vacuum bag for cloth storage- they cost about 3-5$ it is strong bag with zip and hole for sucking out air (it has membrane inside, so air coming only out) . just choose right size of the bag.
So that’s it, I invented this for myself, didn’t find this style anywhere And it works! First time when I heard word vacuum for carbon part making, the first thing that came in my mind was vacuum bags for cloth storage. My girlfriend is using them to save space in closet for winter clothes.
I made my enclosure and board as well with this style.
So process is:apply resin on your mold than apply cloth then again resin and so on. When you finish- just put your detail with mold in vacuum bag, press air out, close zip, connect to vacuum cleaner and suck out rest air, close hole with lid and wait 24h, and you done!!
One thing- outside of part what touches bag will have pressed out resin bumps in bag form, but you can sand it or probably you can use peel ply between part and bag. I heard that there is some kind of peel ply that sucks all not needed resin in, after you just peel that ply off and you end up with surface clean without deformation, but it will look like sanded, so not glossy. But I didn’t try that because didn’t know that peel ply exists!
This GHETTO VACUUMING works and it presses a hell out of that part in mold- So you end up with precise and stronger part due to compressing and less resin in your product!
One tip: Use resin as little as possible, just to soak the cloth!!! More resin you use- Uglier and Weaker part will be. When you mixing resin use same weight as cloth you are going to use.
So about 5$ you can get GHETTO VACUUMING system at home, isn’t it great! And you can use that bag over and over again!!!
So photos, because maybe you won’t believe me :
I think I should use fiberglass mat instead of fiberglass cloth because my mold has sharp corners… Maybe any of you are using fiberglass mat?
making a bag from visqueen would probably work too. But yes, its terribly difficult to use a male form without a bag and not get bubbles or loose packing in sharp corners. Its basically impossible, actually.