Hi everyone,
Collected my hummie deck and enclosure off of @bigben yesterday and I love it! Looks amazing!!!
I’m currently wondering where to mount the on/off switch, battery percentage reader and charging port. I love how slick and smooth the sides look so I’m thinking of putting them at the top.
Just wondering if anyone has done this on their build? Has it caused any issues (stones hitting on off switch, etc)?
Cheers, Daniel
since I’ve gotten a metr module, i’ve gone without a battery meter on my builds. less holes in the enclosure, and less things to break.
I’ve got a android bt module (the one beginning with A? Akm? Or something) and I’ve not been able to set it up yet. Or at least when it’s plugged in and I load the app the information doesn’t display.
I’d like to have the display because I’ll find it easier.
Where are your on/off and charging port?
I don’t have a Hummie deck, but people generally put the power button and charge ports close to the electronics. I like to put my switch and charge ports on opposite sides. I like these switches, they make the in different sizes, make sure you get one that fits the space your enclosure allows
I’ve used these before.
I’m voting for putting switch and charging port at the side of the deck like @OllinBoardCompany and skip the battery meter…
The hummie deck is definitely thicc enough
Deck and enclosure look great btw!
I really don’t want to drill the side of the deck. It’s gonna have to be on the enclosure. I think I’ll put it in the very underside like you see on the enertion raptor board.
I want to get an LED power button but are they easy to wire up? When I got my on off switch I was told I needed a bulky harness to fit the LED switch?
And thank you @Sebike - I’m changing the wheels for Boa ones 
You don’t need to use the harness, you can solder the wires directly with a steady hand. I don’t recommend having the meter on the bottom. It’s like a magnet for stones.
Could you make it without a switch, just push to turn on? That’s something I will try to do.
I’m good enough at soldering providing I’ve got a diagram to follow. When I say diagram I mean actual instructions on what goes where 
Ben has push to start which sounds very interesting. I’d be interested to know the details such as cost, idle off time, etc
After seeing @bigben 's one all clean I won’t mount anything!
He’s got a single charge port mounted to the side of the deck, push to start from @Martinsp and bluetooth for battery meter.
Looks sleek.
Push to start is cool. The only thing I don’t like about it is not knowing if the board is turned off or not. It would not be a fun day when you discover your board has been left on for an entire week.
You made me reconsider putting the charge port and switch on the enclosure, will see how much works would be to mount them on the side
I imagine you’ll need a drill press to get that perfectly straight
I have a cheap one, my main concern is weakening it too much
Also, when on the road it would be stealthier to have them on the enclosure since it’s not visible
@Mudders thank you. This is a replacement deck as my other one wasn’t long enough. The enclosure I made snapped as well. I currently have a single drive but I do plan to have a dual drive. Changing the wheels for some red 100mm Boa’s which will be fun on the 20-38t pulley setup!!
To all: I’ve got a heat sink plate from 3D Servisas and its too wide for the enclosure. I have to cut the ends off of the plate in order to mount it.
My question is - what’s the maximum temperature for a FOCBOX before it becomes compromised? Do I actually need the heat sink plate? I know better cooling helps but do I honestly need it? I don’t want to cut a massive hole out if it’s not needed.
Honestly, if it’s not a mountainboard and you don’t live in the sahara you should be fine.