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HyperEV Resurrected | Custom Deck | | Dual Diagonal APS Outrunner motors | Aliendrivesystems Mount | 10S | APS 150a twin ESC

Hey, to make a long story short, i bought a complete Eboard from Richard at Aliendrivesystems.com Why? Because i don’t know anything (at the time) about electronics. (still learning though, bear with me) To give you an example, i did not know that red is positive and black negative (Just to give you an idea about my level of expertise :smiley: ) Richard is a great guy, he helped me through the whole setup, modding my battery balance ports to fit in a 10s charger and other, maybe very obvious stuff that i was struggling with. Check out his site (for people who don’t know it yet @ aliendrivesystems.com He is having a sale, you can do some bargains there !

Okay so what happened, i really had bad luck with a small water puddle, as you can imagine, the ESC went in total meltdown… took out the BECs and the receiver… disaster !(walk of shame was painfull)

Soooo i’m gonna rebuild everything and mount them on a new deck, which i made during sulking and grieving over my small accident.

So this tread is worthless without pics…

This is the deck i made, I don’t have pictures however when i was creating it, forgot. Taping…

Other side already done (This is a very strong multiplex layered board, no flex, i milled out three rows and put some strands of oak in there

After four layers of glossy clearcoat.

My tool of the trade :smile:

Okay so i still have the other board which i’m about to restore since it took quite a beating already, Gonna sand it down, fill up the gaps and dents with some putty and then sticker it with a carbon sheet i’ve got from aliexpress. (It’s possible i will use this board instead of the custom made one)

Okay so this is my electrical diagram which i mostly reverse engineered from Richard’s build, the only thing that changes is the new Dual output BEC instead of (two seperate BECs) which delivers 5v to the receiver and 12v to the tail, head and ledlights. I’m still looking into how to wire up the Turnigy RC switch in there. This is my funky looking diagram, hope this is correct and a good example to people who are also want to DIY. All credits go to Richard though, i’ve learned a lot when looking at how everything is wired up.

As you can see, the lightning is not yet connected as well as the switch, because i still don’t know how to. I don’t want to bother Richard too much since i already asked a LOT of questions already :stuck_out_tongue: The external balance port is also left out.

I’m gonna need some help on how to connect the switch and arrange the lightning. And the installing of the ESC and configuring it.

Also one small problem, the board came with a unique receiver that pairs with a unique transmitter, I still have to check if the receiver is fried, i’m waiting on my BEC to arrive so i can try it. If it is broken i have no idea which receiver will work with this transmitter. Maybe i can get a spare one. I will post update.

That’s about it. Just waiting for the ESC and the BEC to arrive so i can get cracking.

Also talking about customer service, the ESC went back to alienpowered and the owner is sending me a new one. Thanks !!!:birthday:

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Most of the GT2B style of transmitters have a 3rd channel that you could easily hook up to switch the lights on.
just plug your switch into the 3rd channel on the receiver.
you may have to change out the momentary switch for a toggle though, depending on how your circuit works.

You will need some sort of small relay that has the ability to toggle.
I used to have this within my build purchased from HK

But it broke somehow and now I am going to test this

they only need to be mounted now to my eboard :smiley:

he already has a switch in his diagram.

Ohh yea didn’t notice seems the shape was not quite familiar :slight_smile: my bad

Okay i’m working on updating the diagram including connected lightning and the turnigy switch…

Soooo LOL, i’ve received the SBEC today, and as always i did not take my time to check things first :smile:
Guess i was too excited???
I wanted to try it right away so i hooked it up directly to the 10s lipo pack, without the antispark :smile:

It’s dead… 1v on the 5v output, 3.3v on the 12v output. Gonna try for RMA.

Another lesson learned, Stay calm and take your time. Which is were i mostly fail.

Antispark doesn’t do anything besides limiting the current draw. Hence with / without it any module should be fine, only damage the connectors over time. So you might wanna take a look again in your SBEC if it can handle 10S input.

10S is around 42 Volt. Thats quite big and I barely seen any SBEC can handle over 40V voltage, at least I found one from Hobbyking. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_42754__Turnigy_HV_SBEC_5A_Switch_Regulator_8_42V_input_EU_Warehouse.html

Are you sure? From what i’ve read, if you connect the lipo’s directly to something else, it draws high current for a short moment of time. I hope i’m not wrong, i have no clue otherwise what caused this…

It’s this one. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72700__Turnigy_Multistar_Twin_Output_5_10_Amp_6_50V_SBEC_for_Lipoly.html

Here is some information for the electronic magicians here, maybe someone can help me with this?

So what happened, as said i connected the SBEC directly to the lipo 10s pack (lead wires) First the pos than the neg, the polarities were correct. I had a spark on the negative lead.

I was spooked by this so then i’ve connected the SBEC to the OUTPUT of the wattmeter. (Which also has leads to the ESC)

So it’s Lipo - > Antispark - > Wattmeter -> SBEC (JST) and ESC

(ESC is still RMA)

This output reads (seperate JST connector from the wattmeter) 33 volt (maybe due the watt meter powered on?) , when i measure the lipo pack directly at the leads it’s 39 volts

I’m almost positive (in a bad way) that i fried the SBEC with connecting them directly to the lipo leads.

EDIT :

I checked the wattage meter and i found something weird, there is a little piece of copper disconnected from the board, i will try to show you. (Not my picture)

the copper connector betweet the negative leads.I have voltage though on the wattmeter outputs…

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It’s a 50V SBEC, I’d be surprised if you fried it by just connecting it to the lipo’s. It’s meant to be connected that way. So maybe it’s a bad unit, or maybe you shorted something without realizing. The spark is just a momentary inrush of current to the capacitors and shouldn’t damage it.

If you’re feeling adventurous and really want to check your watt meter you can connect a 24V 35W halogen bulb (hardware store) to it like this:

If you use a freshly charged lipo, the wattmeter should read 20-21V. The halogen bulb will light up and you should get a current of approx. 1.6A.

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Okay thanks for that guide, Gonna try it this weekend, it’s really weird, i have the correct voltage going out of the wattmeter, 33v to the ESC and the BEC… There are no shorts on the wattmeter, it’s working correctly.
Let’s see what happens with the lightbulb on a lipo.

I don’t however have that little copper plate on the wattmeter, the one going between the negative IN and OUTputs…
But it’s working none the less… Any idea what’s it for? its like a bridged connection?

Don’t worry about the little copper part, unless it actually came loose and you still have it, you may be drawing conclusions based on wrong info. If you have voltage coming out of the wattmeter, it should be ok.

Sooooo i hooked it up to a single lipo, it’s working.

Steady as she goes on 12v and 5v.
Even my receiver is working, hell, even my BECS that i supposedly fried together with the receiver… are working…

So i was thinking of bad solder joint or bad jst connector. None of them

What happens if hook up the BEC: The voltage drops from the wattmeter toward the BEC to around 3.3 volt.
Unconnected it’s 19 volt.
I have no clue.

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You have only a bec connected to the lipo via the wattmeter, right ?
Does the wattmeter register current when the bec is connected ?

There is also a antispark in between. battery -> antispark -> wattmeter -> BEC

Did not think of that -_- Wattmeter was upside down, its still attached to my casing.

When the BEC is connected :
Wattmeter display wrong readings, 220+ amps (lol) 4000+ watt (lol) 19.4 volt (correct) and 3.3 volts output

Nothing connected shows standard readings. And 19 volts output.

Is ths wattmeter connected the right way ?
Source = lipo, load = bec
Do you have a multimeter ?

Yes everything is connected the right way, Gonna disconnect the wattmeter and try with the output on the antispark.
It’s probably the antispark, due the short i had with the water situation maybe something blew up in there.

Yes i have a multimeter. Thanks for helping fellow Belgian :smile:

I’ve found out what the issue was, it is indeed that little copper bridge that went missing, found it under my working table, re-attached it and now the BEC is working and no drops in voltage out coming from the wattmeter when something is hooked up.

Weird !

Picture update !

Refurbished the beat up board from Richard to something more … awesome. Removed the griptape also, gonna sticker it with custom grip.

Here you can see the BEC and receiver finally working :

And here i was fixing the small copper plate :

I’ve ordered these new shiny riserpads :

And gonna coat the trucks in matte black instead of hippy purple :slight_smile:

Updated electrical diagram. (Richard ‘www.aliendrivesystems.com’ wired this bad boy up)

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These are the coated caliber trucks, also the motor mounts from aliendrivesystem.

Still working on these mounts, aiming for a cleaner look , also, the risers are gonna be milled down a bit to reduce them in thickness.

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Refreshed the griptape, one problem i’ve encountered, the griptape was not wide enough to cover the board. I had some more carbon tape lying around and improvised a bit, currently its warming up on our central heating to make the tape stick better to the board. And i have to cut off the sides ofcoure :wink:

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