Inspired by @GrecoMan, I thought it could be useful to start a thread about stupid things a lot of us long time builders have done and maybe save some new builders some headache and time.
I bought a @treenutter / Red Ember Shugah deck, used, from @anorak234 . I wanted to replace the Evo Falcon deck on my gear drive board with something longer and wider so I could spread out a little more and be more comfortable and stable at higher speeds.
I spent 2 days, on and off, sanding, filling holes, staning and sealing. Finished the deck. Awesome, this is gonna be bad ass.
I took apart the Evo Flacon, gripped the Shugah and installed the trucks. Turns out I get wheel bite at 5 degree lean…
I really should have seen that from the beginning but I was too focused on the task and not enough on the design. Standing back and looking and thinking for 5 minutes would have saved me a ton of grief. That’s a lesson I’ve had to relearn a few times .
Regardless of the mistake, I’m glad that you’ve revitalized this beauty. I ran 3d printed hubs and @psychotiller 6” wheels with the board, but it took angled risers to make it work. I also used regular width calibers, it helps with the wheelbite because the way the deck is shaped the tires turn into those cutouts quite nicely.
On a personal note, I always seem to forget that hot glue is not a permenant solution to anything. Learned this the hard way multiple times when I go to charge (I used to use xt60s for charging ports) and the port falls into the enclosure.
Definitely, shorter trucks it too trucks would make it usable with 6in wheels. Unfortunately mine are 7in and I’d have to use 20 degrees worth if tisers to make it work.
It’s no bug though, I’m thinking I’ll either rebuild my thane Evo on it it maybe the carvon v4 TDs. It’s too beautiful a board to leave sitting around.
That’s funny, I had that happen just last week and thought I was the only one.
I use hot glue to secure cables and small hardware like BT adaptors or receivers mostly, but I always out some around the charge port too just to stop dirt ingress. Apperantly I forgot the nut in the inside this time .
Sure my board is a franken board, but wheel bite has never bothered me. I put some paint on my wheels then lean both sides with all my might. This puts a mark on deck. I take a dremmel(with cutting bit) and just remove that portion
Repeat that procedure until the paint doesn’t stick on the board any more. It’s then you know, you have cured your board of wheelbite. Oh and lean while the board is not moving.
My first blind attempt at an electric skateboard used a castle pheonix esc… After 8 miles blew that thing so sky high pieces were raining down on the street, i had to literally blow out the flames on the esc, solder from it was embedded everywhere in the case was using.
Then i started looking less blind after finding places like this forum packed with all kinds of excellent information.
Funny as I did the same to a mamba because just because it says 6s doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t run 8 through it…,turns out it says that for a reason. Who knew?
Very true however I wouldn’t think it take much basically cutting the points back from the nose and then re round out the point and then it is solved.
Are you going to keep wedging until you get enough clearance? It’s got me thinking if the Hummie deck would get wheel bite as well. Still undecided on 6.5” or 7” yet