Imbalanced | dual 350W hubs | SkullBoard ESC | 10S3P 30Q | Landyachtz Evo Falcon

Get a dual Flipsky 4.20. Their ESC is not near the torque you get on the 4.20 but mostly the battery consumption is infinitely better.

Any word if they fixed the vibes yet

It never happened :slight_smile: tear-down of the can itself revealed several mechanical issues that, in my opinion, point to Skullboards using factory seconds or rejected hubs from Jomo.

Very disappointing.

Do not recommend Skullboards, who ignored our feedback and proceeded to continue to sell a substandard product to western consumers, placing our people at risk for injury for tens of dollars in gains over using a quality can.


The esk8 industry seems to be hit or miss these days. It’s sad…


Got mine from Ownboard, no complaints here, vibes under 5mph but nothing obtrusive, no overheating either, seems like the luck of the draw. QC may be a big issue though, I know my square motor mounts that bind to the truck are anything but square, had to convert it from fwd by swapping the motors, don’t think it’d be easy to swap back, as it looks like the locator was cut out using a butter knife, no kidding, absolutely awful. Also, need to Caliber and riptide everything, cause the stock stuff is junk, there’s like 2mm of kingpin slop!


Yes, there is a funny vibration with these wheels. I don’t know if bearings or just balance of wheel but there is an issue. I just put up with it cause I hope that another 100mm + wheels comes to market soon.

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bringing this back from the dead.

got a set of these from @mishrasubhransu and yea, one of the drives are wobbly af.

put it aside for almost a year but want to try these on the haya short deck.

anyway, plugged stuff in on the bench to test

and played around with weights and placement along the wheel.

after a number of tries, playing around with different weights and position, i think it’s balanced out now. hard to tell in the video but i just inserted a screw, maybe 3grams, into what must the lightest point along the wheel and the vibration is mostly gone - definitely an huge improvement.

did something similar with 6shooters but using 5gram wheel weight and sticking them in the hub inner lip.

not sure if this is even relevant anymore though.


I still have my set completely intact but hardly ever use it because of the vibration. @thisguyhere Can you share how you located the “light spot” on the wheel? And how do you figure how much weight should go there? Is it just a matter of trial and error until you visibly see less “wobble?”

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trial and error. literally went around the circumference.

move the weight, spin it, decide if vibrations to away. rinse repeat until you find a spot where it’s the least vibby. then add / remove additional weight to see if it’s improves further.

again, it’s just trial and error.

at least with the 6shooter i can spin it to see where it settles, then add weight to the opposite end.


I never thought I would see a balanced Skull motor… wow :slight_smile:

You are a genius, well done!


I’m now experimenting with one of the “new” big wheel shock-absorber solution, but so far it looks like the exact same typical issues. Even if the idea actually works, they can’t seem to manufacture a set without horrible symmetry issues. Both the motors I got seem fine balance-wise, but the front wheels, which you’d think would be far easier to make without them coming out janky, are wobbly as all hell. Sad that they don’t seem to learn from their mistakes.

Gotta give credit to all the wheel makers (Orangatang, Kegel, etc.) as apparently pouring thane into a mold isn’t as simple as it sounds!

@MiniChopper4Me Photos of these?

I wouldn’t recommend getting them yet though, as I have yet to ride them, or even get a set that isn’t as wobbly as the Skullboard ones were. I think you can see their “quality” in the pics.


The funny vibration that the Skullboard hubs have was p-ssing me off so I got my 125mm angle grinder with a sanding pad and sanded the wheel whilst rotating to true them up and it solved the vibration issue. Took a few mm of rubber off and improved things alot. Put skateboard upside down, run wheel at full speed whilst running sander against direction of wheel. It would be better if you could true it up in lathe of some sort but if you sand off with low pressure you can manage to get the high spots down. Not a fan of the wheel, they are relatively noisy compared to the verreal hubs on the other end of the board (made mine AWD with skullboard hubs on one end), especially when under load going up a hill. There is a new hub on Aliexpress with removable rubber outer that am interested in and seem to be made by the same coy but hesitant in getting them yet without feedback. They are the black anodised ones 105 x 65mm.