Thanks a lot! Finally took them apart!
So I am new to the forum and new to e-skate in general and just got a used m1. I want to make it water proof so that it won’t die on me in the occasional drizzle or rain. Any ideas as to how I can carry that out? Thanks
Yes you can do all that 
Check your motor sensor wire and compare the order of the colors with my picture above, you will see the difference 
Water only come from the top and sometimes from the bottom where the wires enter the board.
The bottom one is easy just use silicone or similar. The top part is hard to make sure it wont leak inside… To be honest the only thing I would kinda trust would be something like this (IF its waterproof):
Hey guys!
I’m new to the to the forum and have owned a m1 for a while. Recently I fell and broke my remote. I was looking through the forums and it seemed like you are able to use different remotes to pair with various ESCs. I wanted to see if it was possible to pair a different remote to the stock ESC.
I apologize if this isn’t the right place to put it.
Thanks!
@siftingsands you can pair different remotes on a VESC, not on a ESC usually. I replaced the original ESC with a VESC that is why I’m able to use a different remote.
You will need to buy a new one from Inboard and follow the instructions to pair.
Btw, I hope you didn’t get much hurt
Thanks for all the information!!! My M1 fried itself the other day- plugged in the battery and heard a sizzle followed by smoke. The circuit board compartment was covered in soot and the board was fried at least around one of the mounting screws.
In any case, since Inboard has gone out of business we are on our own to fix these things. That’s why this page may become very popular!
In reading, the Flipsky 4.20 is not recommended for 12s batteries which I think is what the M1 uses. People are making it work but who knows for how long and how hard they push their motors. If you never go beyond 3/4 throttle and never go up hills you aren’t pushing a lot of current through the ESC and the 4.20 Plus may work fine.
The recommended ESC is something equivalent or better than the Flipsky 6.6. That one has the ability to use newer/more powerful batteries. If the rest of the board lasts long enough to need a new battery you will be able to upgrade to whatever the best tech is at the time rather than being limited to old battery chemistry/tech. Note that the compartment for the circuit board is ~112mm x 96mm (roughly- measure to be sure!).The regular FSESC 6.6 does not fit. I had to order the FSESC 6.6 MINI or you could order the FSESC 6.6 Plus as it will fit as well. The Plus gives you the option of running a 4 wheel drive (4 motor) board but is otherwise (I think) about the same as the MINI.
Here is what I ordered:
Dual FSESC6.6 Based upon VESC6 with Aluminum Heatsink Mini Size $183.20
Anti Spark Switch Pro 280A for Electric Skateboard /EBike /Scooter/Robots $31.19
2.4Ghz Remote VX1 for DIY electric skateboard For VESC6
$39.19
Bluetooth Module 2.4G Wireless Based upon the nrf51_vesc project For V4 (Diagram shows it with FSESC 6.6 too) $7.93
XT60 Male & Female Connectors Plugs 10 Pairs $4.01
|Subtotal|$265.52| |Shipping|$27.50| |Total|USD $293.02|
I don’t know if I needed the new remote and probably didn’t need the bluetooth but I think that will make setup easier.
Hopefully the battery and motors will last long enough to make this a good purchase. Worst case scenario, I have a good start on a DIY board build.
You won’t be able to make it waterproof by adding silicon or anything like that- the water will seep in to the motors and cause problems. If you ride in the wet you will always be taking a risk with these boards. A light splash may not be a problem but a long ride on wet pavement is probably going to cause motor problems at some point.
The battery is well sealed and the circuit board is… well… They sealed it up pretty well. I don’t know if mine failed because of moisture, poor circuit board quality, or poor circuit design (not able to handle the power long-term). I think it was a poorly built circuit board AND not robust enough to handle the power.
There was no indication of water ever getting in to the battery box nor the circuit board compartment despite some wet adventures. I haven’t disassembled the motors yet but will try to update this forum when I do so.
I wonder if it is possible to plug a new receiver in to the existing circuit board. If so, a new $49 remote with included receiver would be an easy installation/solution.
@Thumbs welcome to the forum 
The battery compartment is very small too so I don’t see a way to put something in there that my 4.20 Plus cannot handle. It has no issues with 12Ss. But your setup is better and almost the same price I got my stuff so it’s a better choice now. And like you said it’s a good start for another build if you decide to do that later.
I think the motors are fine with water… it’s the dirt that comes with it that will cause problems. I try to avoid it but I use mine on wet conditions quite often. I have the version with holes so I covered them and I open and clean the motors sometimes. I clean the bearings more often and also replaced them once.
I wonder if it is possible to plug a new receiver in to the existing circuit board. If so, a new $49 remote with included receiver would be an easy installation/solution.
I think if that is possible it will be anything but easy to do hehe
Thumbs ,
I am in a similar situation with a mainboard / ESC on my M1 that has a fried diode. Purchased it that way so that I could come up with a solution to fix the board and make it useable. Any way you could document the links to the parts you are going to be using and a step by step as you work on this solution? It would serve as a great roadmap to others that need to come up with a way to solve a fried ESC/ mainboard issue on the Inboard M1.
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I will do my best. Stuck right now because I got superglue in the holes of the little white connectors and now I need to figure out what size it is to get a replacement.
The parts look like they will fit with some modification of the layout. The circuit board is larger than the factory one so it fills that space. I think pushing the wires outside of the black box will let everything fit.
Out of town right now but will try to get moving on it next week.
Message me to remind me if I don’t update soon!
I am interested in any and all updates as I may be forced to travel down a similar path. I have a board with a bad mainboard so I want to find a good reliable working solution to replace the electronics / remote , etc.
I can learn from any pitfalls you may encounter along the way. First one I learned is to not get super glue in any of the connectors . LOL
Hehe. Yeah, so when you switch those wires on the little white connector coming from the wheel motor, be really careful pushing the pins out of the connector. If they are loose I’d use hot glue to secure them instead of super glue! Maybe the thick gel super glue, just not the watery stuff.
If you have to just strip the wires and solder them. Heat shrink tubing over the solder joints.
I was hoping to keep it easily reversible since it is my first build. I guess getting it finished would be better!
Not sure my soldering skills are up to the task on those little pins. I drilled it out, need to check the continuity. Some sort of conductive glue/putty/filler that could go in the holes, tiny drop in each, would be great.
I could do it if you were close by.
I just bought an ownboard kt mini for a bit of fun recently and its pretty good so far but my brother found an m1 in the trash. What would you do with it? Are the motors better than the ownboard?
Or does anyone know a cheap esc that will work with it as hes on a budget. I can build the battery ok 12x40t 21700 maybe. There is some arcing on the phase wires but once unplugged the motors turn fine. Thanks if anyone can help.
You will probably want to follow this thread and see how @Thumbs makes out with his modifications.
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The Flipsky 6.6 Dual is about $220 and does fit in the board with some minor modification to the board. Definitely not cheap. The up-side is that the Flipsky can be used on high-power systems so it can pulled out of this board and put to use in something else two years from now. Heck, they even use it for electric surfboards, etc.
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