Hi, is it possibile to join another switch to power on the ESC? With this mod I would like to turn on and off the system by pressing the “new” button out of the container.
Thanks.
maybe, you’d have to look how its wired up on the inside. of the switch. (ive done this with an external switch on one esc, not 2 at the same time)
First of all don’t use that switch to turn your board on and off it’s not meant to do that. If your looking for a way to turn your entire board on and off you need to use either a MOSFET Switch, a BMS with a built in switch or a XT90 loop key.
Currently I’ve a XT90s loop key, but it’s uneasy to switch on and off the system.
Can you explain what is a MOSFET switch? How can I implement that on my board? ( you can also link me a useful topic )
Thanks! 
MOSFET switch is sold under the name of Vedder anti Spark Switch. It just has ± in and out and goes in between your battery and other equipment.
Also comes with a 40/50a fuse. Some people replace these with an 80a, others solder bridge it and get rid of it and then there are those who use two Vedder switches to circumvent the low A rating.
I can direct you to this site for anti-spark as described by @telnoi I have no commercial interest there, and have not tested yet but it’s handy for EU people
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be carefull with switches on a 6s system! You´re pulling much more juice than others with 10 or 12s. Most mosfet switches are rated up to 60A continous and will fail under a bit of riding on 6s.
Good thing with our friend @goldenHusky and his side antisparkheaven.com is, that he has some high power switches, which are able to withstand currents up to 160A cont.
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Hi! So do I have to buy this ? It’s suitable for two motors but my ( single ) 5055-280kv needs 60A cont , and lower Vedder of that “product line” can deliver up to 30A.
As it is an anti-spark between the battery and the VESC, I would say that what counts is what the battery can deliver, not really what the motors can take. But maybe that makes no sense. @TarzanHBK can correct me as necessary
i’ve got both bare bones https://longhairedboy.com/collections/all/products/12s-bare-bones-eswitch
and kits https://longhairedboy.com/collections/all/products/12s-eswitch-complete-diy-kit
if you don’t mind soldering.
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My battery is 4.5Ah 35C , so the max cont amp draw is about 160A ( approximated by excess ) Eventually my max cont amp draw is 60A ( limited by motor ) .
Am I right?
This solution is too expensive… And my battery is a 6s1p, that eSwitch is designed for 12s, can it work with my system?
yes. yes it can. I used these with my 6S boards as well.
@TarzanHBK well my single FET switch that I built has been working just fine for me in 6S for a very long time. What I think a lot of people don’t understand is that normally your only drawing around 15A continuously and you only draw upwards of 60A when accelerating or hill climbing. A 2x FET design like the standard Vedder switch will be fine for you and most people.
You mean the Vedder linked from this post?
Or it’s enough te switch for 30A cont?
Of course its enought for most of the time. But i blow switches and destroy chains, made to be ok for most people… I like to over engineer things, so it will last guaranteed!
It costs just a little bit more and therefore lasts forever!
Yeah exactly like for a mountain board or whatever your gonna be drawing a lot more current. And yeah over compensating on these types of things is a good idea.