So I bought a few cheap v1 project boards with dead batteries and was wondering, do I have to use the boosted board battery pack and their respective bms in order to use their vesc or I can install a completely different battery pack without the original boosted bms, as long as the voltage is as it should be? Does the vesc communicate with that specific bms or it doesn’t care?
Also on a side note, is it possible to solder connectors to the boosted board v1 battery wires to make it detachable, removable and swappable?
Boosted dont use vescs
But yes the bms communicates with the esc, so you can’t just swap the original pack to a diy pack. What you could do is an extended pack which you add in parallel to the original battery pack.
Search a bit here. You should be able to find some information about it. It was done before by others
Does the parallel pack have to be of a certain capacity or it could be substantially bigger in capacity than the v1, even if it’s the same voltage? I’m thinking about building bigger parallel packs than the ones that were build here.
Also, could I upgrade the v1 pack with more cells or the bms is configured for that certain amount of cells?
Also, could the v1 battery pack be made detachable by soldering connectors to wires for easy install/uninstall?
Lastly, could the motors be replaced/upgraded to more powerful ones but still use the or b1 esc and bms?
Capacity doesn’t matter, just make sure the voltage match up and don’t forget the bms from the original pack will not balance the additional pack
A bms just balance the parallel groups which attached to the balance leads. If you add a complete pack in parallel than the bms will not balance that pack
I would make the self made pack attachable with separate charge port and charge only bms.
Don’t think so.
All in all i would just use the deck and trucks, wheels etc and switch the whole electronics to diy components. Get two vesc or a dual vesc and you can run what ever you want.
Hi Dog, I’m in a sort of similar predicament regarding v1 boosteds and getting it back up and running.
I’m getting rid of the of pack that was in there and replacing it with a 10s3p of Samsung 30ts, replacing the speed controller with a focbox Unity and including a Metr module and Flipsky VX1, keeping the drive train and just upgrading to fresh wheel pulleys and 85mm purple cags.
To extend the packs to a 12s2p(or more) you would have to first remove the bad / dead cells in the first p pack, then add only the exact same cell in the same configuration for your second, third or even fourth p group. The BMS only works with that wonky voltage, so using the same A123 cells boosted does is unfortunately required
Imo, you would be better off just ditching the internals and instead, buy a new liion battery and spend time programming a smooth throttle curve.
I have a boosted v2 and there you can remove the main pack buy just disconnect one plug, but the esc will not work without signal from the original pack.
Yes. A bms doesn’t care about parallel packs unless it’s wired for discharge, which means there is a limit to what the BMS can push towards the ESC and motors.
If the BMS is skipped / bypassed for discharge then you’re golden.
It’s easy to switch a normal bms from charge and discharge to bypass, I don’t know about the boosted bms… Only one way to find out
Can I solder connectors to the positive and negative wires and a 2pin connector to the gray wire on the BOOSTED BOARD VERSION ONE BATTERY PACK and make it detachable/unplugable/removable without the need to cut the wires?
I just found this and I made the mistake to not check If I could buy a battery for a V1 and paid $500 for basically a board that is now junk, unless I can find a way to get a battery made.
But yes the bms communicates with the esc, so you can’t just swap the original pack to a diy pack. What you could do is an extended pack which you add in parallel to the original battery pack.
Search a bit here. You should be able to find some information about it. It was done before by others
Dog:
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