Is my 6s 3p BMS wiring sheme correct?

Like 3 days ago i wired charge/discharge testwise to C- and that was the only time i saw it charging my battery until a little bang scared the shit outta me so i cut it of again. Aaaaand one day i tested my charger by putting one of the voltmeter into the plug of the charger where a pretty big again scared the shit out of me, i guess it broke there.

Do you think i should just buy a new charger or is there still a problem with my wiring ? (Ignore the C- wiring, it’s testwise)

And if i would buy a new one this here should work right ?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01A6LQMWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2cvQzbBEKTCFP

Your last diagrams I checked were fine. As long as you corrected the wiring colours. Red is positive and black is negative. About that charger I don’t think It will fully charge your battery. You have a 6s setup. And a fully charged cell is at 4.2v. So as voltage is added in series you have 6x4.2v=25.2v That’s the charger you need. One that outputs 25.2v dc With that charger you will get only 24v/6= 4v per cell. Not fully charging is actually good for batteries l life but you will not get full juice out of them. Up to you

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I don’t speak German so I can’t be sure but it looks line this one would do

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I’ve ordered both because i want to get this thing to work asap and the 25,2V one is from China. And as you said, under charging increases battery life which isint that bad.

I’ll get back tomorrow when the charger from amazon arrives.

And again thanks for all your help.

You are very welcome. As I said i couldn’t understand much more than the specs from the description. Xd Not a bad idea to have a backup anyway

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Before i break the next charger i wanted to check if i wired my charging port correct but i couldnt find info on how to wire it.

This is my plug.

At the moment i have battery + connected to inner pin of the charger plug and Esc - to outer ring of the plug. I really googled a lot but i couldnt find anything reliable on how the polarity of 2.5 x 5.5 plugs has to be.

Wait i just found a picture… Aaaand it looks like i was wrong ?

https://goo.gl/images/qJnkde

I´ve updated my wiring sheme in regard to my problem.

Is everything working now?

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When the charger arrives check polarity with your multimeter. It could be both ways

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The charger just arrived and i think i should be fine to test it right ?

Edit: I’ve plugged it in and it thems to work. The cells are slowly getting voltage. But there comes the next question to my mind. How do i now if my Bms is really working properly ?

Measure each cell voltage a couple of hours after you think it finished charging. And do the same once each month more or less. If all cells are 4.2 either it is a perfectly symmetrical pack or your bms is working.

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That sounds plausible, my bms has also “balance Led’s” but i don’t know when they will turn on, maybe only in the balance process.

Right now everything looks good and is loading. THANK YOU VERY MUCH M8 !

If you have the time to go through my last questions for now that would be awesome if not, its also fine :slight_smile:

  1. Do you have an solution on how to wire my voltmeter, so it turns of whenever i use the switch of my esc ?

  2. Another nice dude from this forum told me that my battery will have to work very hard in this setup. I think he is referring to the 45A my battery has and the 36A my engine will max drain. Would an 6s4p solve the problem ?

Again thank you so much for all your help also to the other guys !

looking at your last battery setup pic, does this 6s setup work? i have 24 samsung 18650 batteries to build a 6s4p setup and your setup would work great if i build my pack as is in your pic.

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I’m afraid I never had That esc so I can’t say. Ask around in the forum maybe someone figured it out. Maybe the switch switches on the full dc input to turn on something and you can turn on the volt meter as well but without having the esc I can’t figure it out. maybe open a new thread specifying the esc model. And about the batteries. I have only used lipos but in general. If your Max discharge (theoretically c rating of cells x pack amps) is not high enough you will get voltage sag and maybe trigger esc protections or at least not enough power. So in general more cells in parallel equals less sag and more driving distance but more weight

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Well i havent driven it yet but the engine is working as it should. From what i’ve calculated i should get around 20 kph max with 16 km range, which would be top notch in my opinion.

But remember if you want use my wiring diagram that its for my bms and my battery will probably have to work hard as my engine max drains 34 A from my 45A battery pack.

I’ll upgrade asap to a 6s4p or 5p setup.

@krloz

Thank for the hint i’ll see what i can find in regard to my esc and probably upgrade my battery very soon with more in parelel wiring.

Btw that loading time with my 24V 3A charger is crazy. After 6 hours of loading from 20.2V to 21.2V.

That is quite slow. Maybe the charger is over specked and it is not giving 3A. What is the amp rating of your cells?

They are rated with 15 A

https://eu.nkon.nl/review/product/list/id/1852/category/23/

For some reason my multimeter stopped working yesterday…anyway almoast 50 % Charge.

15A is the max discharge rating. I meant the capacity which is 3A (3000mA) and at 4p pack that is 12A. With a 3A/hour rated charger you should be getting to 90% charge and balancing in 5 hours more or less.

Edit. I thought you had a 4p pack. At 3p the math is 9A pack and around 4hours of charging

Here is what they say. HERE ARE POWERFUL 36V 4.4AH BATTERY PACKS MADE OF 20 BRAND NEW AND GENUINE SAMSUNG 18650 BATTERIES. I KNOW ALL YOU “DO-IT-YOURSELF” E-BIKE AND POWERWALL BUILDERS OUT THERE ARE LOOKING FOR AFFORDABLE AND HIGH QUALITY 18650 CELLS. THIS IS PERFECT FOR YOU. GENUINE SAMSUNG 2200MAH (MORE LIKE 2270MAH - 2310MAH) BATTERIES. HIGH DRAIN MEANING THESE ARE RATED FOR 10A CONTINUOUS AND 20A MAX PER CELL. SO THESE ARE MEANT TO HANDLE THE EXTRA POWER. DO YOUR RESEARCH AND REALIZE YOU ARE GETTING 20 BRAND NEW SAMSUNG 18650 CELLS FOR THIS PRICE. ALREADY SPOT WELDED AT 10S 2P WITH A SOLID BMS. I SEE YOU E-BIKE BUILDERS PAYING $190 FOR A 36V 10AH BATTERY. YOU CAN BUILD THAT WITH THESE FOR HALF THE PRICE. YOU JUST NEED A NEW CONNECTOR AND TO CONNECT THE 2 LEAD WIRES IN PARALLEL TO INCREASE THE CAPACITY. ALSO PERFECT TO DISASSEMBLE AND BUILD OTHER BATTERY PACKS WITH THE CELLS. LOOKING FOR A BULK ORDER? LETS DO BUSINESS! CONTACT ME BY CLICKING ON “ALARMHOOKUP” AT THE TOP RIGHT OF THIS LISTING UNDER THE SELLER INFORMATION BOX. THEN CLICK ON “CONTACT”. I HAVE TONS OF THESE THAT I AM CURRENTLY RE-BUILDING INTO POWERWALLS. IF YOU NEED A LOT OF THESE PACKS I CAN SUPPLY YOU WITH MANY CELLS

Ah ok i got you wrong there. I have to check the charging plug it possible some damage. 40% charge after 24h is kinda lame.